Welding broken plow shank

Well, I struck out Friday looking for a salvage replacement shank. White built plows
for Case and my friendly CNH dealer was parting out a Case 500 plow, the same as the
White model 588. I figured the shanks would be the same on the 500/588, but not
so.The shanks on the 598 vari-width are 2" longer with another hole in them. Sat, I
started the welding repair. This shank was broken and repaired before we got the
plow. The last repair was not done properly. They did not grind the 2 halves in very
far, so the welds did not penetrate to the center of the 1-3/8" thick shank. I Vee'd
both halves out deep, not only on the sides, but edges also. I got good penetration
on the first center beads and made sure all the slag was chipped away and then used
a blunt punch and hammer to relieve each weld. I alternated welds on each side so
the shank remained straight and true. This heavy piece of H beam makes a great anvil and perfect flat surface to hold things straight. I took my time welding so that the shank
stayed reasonably cool and as said all the beads were lightly relieved. The first
picture shows how poorly the first welding job was done. Lots of rusty metal in
center of shank.
The rest of the pics were taken as welding progressed.









Today I went out to the shop and found a piece of 1" round stock and cut and bent it to fit the inner curve of the shank where all the stress will be. The rod will make up for the weak spot where the 3/4" hole is drilled thru the shank where it broke. I ground the welds down on the sides as the shank slides up into the spring reset assy. Gave it a squirt of paint and tomorrow I hope to be back in the field plowing. I still have 200A to go.

Loren

That looks like that will hold. Did you peen the weld after each pass?

Yes I did. That is what I referred to as "relieving the weld" I did it with a blunt punch and hammer so I could get to the first welds deep in the groove, plus each bead that I drew there after.
Loren

What does peening the weld do?

Relieves the stress.

When you weld 2 pieces of steel together the weld shrinks and distorts the welded steel. Peening the weld relieves this tension from shrinkage and expands the metal in the bead a bit. If you don't peen the welds, one side will try to pull the weld apart on the other side. This compounds as you start layering welds and run wider beads as you get closer to the surface of a V groove. I also change direction of my welds each pass so the crater at the end of several beads are not side by side and are not concentrated on one end of a welded section.
Loren

Good job. That piece of I beam makes a good welding table, it looks fairly heavy. Stan

Loren. From your explanation I'd say you saved yourself quite a bit of money. Great outcome. Wingnut

Lookin' good!!!

And old friend taught me many years ago on repairs like that with NO grinding and 100% penetration . On rainy saturdays myself and his son in law would attend john's advanced welding classes . He was a Welder for forty years and did all kinds of heavy welding . To watch this man with a stinger in his hand was pure art as he could control a rod like i had never seen . I learned how to weld when i was 14-15 and spent many hours rebuilding idlers and roller shells then on to installing weld on Sprockets , can not tell you how many feet of grouser stock i put on track pads as i could get one side done on a D 8 by myself in a day , thought i was pretty good till i meet John . Once you learn rod control and know your welder you can do this . And never pick up a chippen hammer. I have repaired many disc arbors and never put a grinder to them , tac in two places and start welding and washing your way down thru and start the build up controlling your heat by choking the rod if your running to hot and if to cold pull back .

Just another “case” of fiat letting us down once again.

Fiat is not the one to blame in this one,, when they bought worthless ih and then turned around and put the worthless ones who ran ih in the ground in charge is when the Real CASE Company went to the crapper,, since day one they have done all they can do to kill the Real CASE name instead of burying the worthless junk ih name,, now has Fiat done some bad things sure they have but its nothing compared to the destruction caused by painting and allowing the red junk side to remain has, Fiat has supported 100% the CASE CE side from day one,, so lets give credit where credit is due,, the old ih is 100% to blame along with those idiots who put them in charge,, real CASE people who was there will agree,, most here have no clue what really went on

You did great Loren.
I always grind thick metal to a point and slowly build up as I work around it.
Thanks for the photos.
Richard

I hate when they do things like that.

Everything has been cheapened up but the price has tripled

Fiat had nothing to do with this!! It is a WHITE plow. I was hoping the plows that White built for Ford and Case, would have parts interchangeability, but the WHITE 598 has very few parts in common with it's rigid frame brother the 588.
Loren

Loren if you cant fix it no one can fix it. By the way, did your wife stick her head in the door to see what all the banging was about while you were peening?

Amen! Case nutty.

Looks Good Loren. Sometimes welding stuff like that can be therapy...

If you heat the iron before welding and then hold that heat while welding then let it cool very slowly you don't need to do all that peening . Talk to the guys welding old press and drop forge bases and such. Castings are welded that way. My brother used to work and own a press repair business. That is how they welded things which took much more force than a plow shank. Peening will work to some extent.