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Water in hydraulic system CASE VAC

U

UPS Driver

New User
I recently acquired a 1949 Case VAC. The tractor starts easily with even a hand crank and carries good oil pressure. It is another family heirloom so I really want to do this right and began changing all the fluids. The tractor was parked outside for most of its life and there was water in the transmission/ rear end housing that drained easily and flushed with kerosene. The next thing I did was change the oil in the hydraulics (torque tube) I drained it twice and as soon as it’s ran it looks like coffee with cream. Granted it’s cleaner every time but I’m wondering if there’s anything else where I can drain it? I’m afraid to pull hydraulic lines loose for fear of breaking them the eagle hitch works fine and I’m running cheap 10w30 to try and flush it out but I’m not sure I’ll ever get it all out. Any suggestions?
 


Water in any of the housings is common in old tractors. While it can be from sitting outside it is not usually the cause. Moisture gets into the housing from the humidity in the air, and the next night it condenses on the inside walls. When the tractor was working everyday the heat generated would drive the moisture out every day. Your tractor had old type oil without the modern additives so it stayed separated for the most part, which is why it was easy to drain off. The small amount that you have left won't cause a problem, but if you really want to clean it up good find some hard work for it. If you put cheap hydraulic oil back in you will be able to drain most of it out easily again. If you put in modern UTF it will mix as yours is now, and you will need to drain all of it annually.
 
Given that you have a hydraulic system with pump, lines, valve, and cylinder, I think you would have to tear into them to get the dirty oil out. So, I'd say you're on the right track by flushing it, if you don't want to take anything apart. I can't remember when they started with the filter. Does your tractor have one? Do you know if your lift cylinder leaks by at all? You could unhook the vent/drip line at the base of the Eagle hitch and check that out. If it does leak, you'll be taking it apart anyhow.
 
Thank you for all your replies!!! I appreciate your help, my father and I restored a few tractors in my childhood but he’s no longer here to consult with. Would hy Tran be okay from Walmart?? They have a 2 gallon jug reasonably priced. It actually calls for 20 weight oil but good luck finding it in my area. I’m thinking there’s a filter but I’m unable to find a replacement so I just used 10w30 hi mileage Walmart brand oil as a way to flush it out. Then I soaked the torque tube with kerosene for a few days and cleaned it out reasonably well thinking I had it taken care of. Actually it looks cleaner but still like coffee with cream is the best analogy I can offer . I have some trees to cut down and will use it to pull those up to process and try again. Can this be left idling? It carries around 15 pounds of oil pressure and runs reasonably well
 
Hytran is just right. Go down to the case forum and ask about the filter. It's likely a washable fiber filter.
 
I would stop with the kerosene, dump in correct oil and a couple cans of seafoam. Run it to get good and warm for a few hours, or dump oil, heat to 220 degrees to boil out seafoam and water then filter and reuse.
 
I don't know what's available for a filter. My VAC predates that. If you have a four bolt plate on the side of the torque tube, there should be a filter behind it. As Jon indicated, go to the Case forum. If anyone knows about a filter, it would be John Saeli.
 
If it has a filter, it is under the plate in front of the clutch pedal.
I bought mine from John Saeli.
Good man to deal with.
Richard in NW SC
 
Thank you for all your replies!!! I appreciate your help, my father and I restored a few tractors in my childhood but he’s no longer here to consult with. Would hy Tran be okay from Walmart?? They have a 2 gallon jug reasonably priced. It actually calls for 20 weight oil but good luck finding it in my area. I’m thinking there’s a filter but I’m unable to find a replacement so I just used 10w30 hi mileage Walmart brand oil as a way to flush it out. Then I soaked the torque tube with kerosene for a few days and cleaned it out reasonably well thinking I had it taken care of. Actually it looks cleaner but still like coffee with cream is the best analogy I can offer . I have some trees to cut down and will use it to pull those up to process and try again. Can this be left idling? It carries around 15 pounds of oil pressure and runs reasonably well
 
The kerosene just helped flush all the crud from the bottom . I’m done with it I hope. The seafoam sounds like a good idea though. Would you think that the filter is behind a plate with hydraulic lines coming out of it or one that’s blank? I assumed the blank one was for a belt pulley. Also I have a large quantity of 10w30 and was wondering if that would hurt anything?
 
(quoted from post at 10:18:15 11/10/20) The kerosene just helped flush all the crud from the bottom . I m done with it I hope. The seafoam sounds like a good idea though. Would you think that the filter is behind a plate with hydraulic lines coming out of it or one that s blank? I assumed the blank one was for a belt pulley. Also I have a large quantity of 10w30 and was wondering if that would hurt anything?
Click to expand...

UPS driver, What makes Sea Foam sound like a good idea?
 
Like said heat the oil you drain out to evaporate the water out then reuse a few times till it gets the water out of the system. I have done that with out 856 a couple of times. Works pretty good too.
 
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