Non-Deere loader on Deere?

Good evening. I have a '82 Deere 650 and a Deere 1025R. I have the option of buying a fairly good size match loader for a Mahindra tractor...48 inch bucket, etc. However, the brackets clearly won't match. GPM's on the pumps are also slightly lower on the Deere than the Mahindra, but not by much.

My question is merely to get insight from anyone who has fabricated or modified brackets for a loader. Ideally it would go on the 650. Intended use is light-duty work around the yard and in the woods. My 650 has the power-beyond valve, but I would need to fit it with a low pressure return line to the hydraulic sump/transmission. The "proper" loader (Deere 67) is next to impossible to find. The Mahindra is about 1/2 the price of made-to-fit aftermarket loader.

I have access to suitable shop facilities at work. Any insight is appreciated. Thanks in advance. Dave

I’ve done it long ago. Just make sure the quick attach fits & operates correctly. Also make sure you make a grill guard. If you don’t you will remember this post when you mess up your grill.

OK, good advice. I'll be sure to fab up grill guard when I make the brackets. Thanks!

In most cases it's not real hard to modify to fit a different tractor. Usually just different plates and maybe a spacer to match the frame of your tractor. Look ata jd loader to see where it should mount so you don't put undue stress on the frame of your tractor.

I have an 81 year model 650 John Deere and had an IH Cub Lowboy loader that was adapted to it and used for about 12 years until I bought a TLB unit. It was very simple to do. I just made a couple of brackets to fasten the loader frame onto the tractor right at the clutch housing and then a couple more brackets to attach it to the weight carrier on the front of the frame where you put the suitcase type weights. I tapped into the tractor hydraulics on the front side of the lift unit where the hex shaped plugs are and you have to install a plug internally to get power there and the oil return was piped to the hex plug on the left side of the transmission about half way down the case.
It was very mean to steer with a loaded bucket. One thing that helped was to replace the rib type front tires with automotive tires that had flat tread and I eventually installed turf type tires on the back because the ag bar type tires would dig a hole if they ever spun but the turf type tires did not do that as bad nor do these type tires mess up the grass when mowing and turning around.

I finally added the John Deere field install power steering kit on mine. The power steering hooks into the hydraulics of the tractor the same way. If you can find a schematic of the power steering oil flow and it will guide you. I just sold the power steering kit I removed from my 650 this past week. I had taken it off because with my 5' flail mower on the back of the tractor the front end was so light with the power steering you had no feel of where you were going so I removed it. The 650 is one tough little machine. Gene Davis Tennille, Ga.

Gene: Thank you for the detailed response. I will be sure to pick your brain if/when it comes time to plumbing it in. I have the manual but it shows the plumbing for the OEM loader & valve. This one will be a little different. I hear you on the P/S. If I get the loader I'll be using the "Popeye" (big forearms) method of steering until I find a P/S link. Dave