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Inside my radiator

P

plowhand

Member
Get to radiator shop?
tractor runs at 200
<img
src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto5907
0.jpg">
 

cvphoto59071.jpg
 
Not yet. Check out for plugged fins,look inside for calcium buildup(if severe,take to shop) Check thermostat(look inside while it is warmed up and running,you can see it open/close-water circulateing)Check gage(use a infrared thermometer).Is the belt slipping,or worn?Is it 100 degrees outside and you are pulling the crap out of it?If that's the case,your cooling system is working fine,Or is it just 'poopin' around the yard? Some engines just seem to run 'warm'.Is the tractor boiling? does it seem 'hot'? is this a new thing?Do a little reascearch before you 'yank it out'.
 
Washing soda (several cups added slowly as you fill radiator with water) & a speaker magnet inside the tank, wired up so it can be retrieved easily. Run the tractor for awhile with radiator covered & cap off so water will boil. Drain, allow to cool, repeat until drain water is clear enough to make you happy. Flush with vinegar a couple of times & see if that helps.
 
I would try flushing the system with just water. Remove the thermostat so it will freely circulate, let it run at full RPM with the hose hanging it the radiator and the drain open.

Let it run until clear water draining, then drain it.

If the radiator is not too hard to get off, you could take it off, treat just the radiator with some vinegar or descaling treatment. Then turn it upside down and blow it out with alternating water and compressed air. Just be careful not to put too much pressure on it.

I doubt you will find a radiator shop willing to try rodding it out. They are scared it will damage the core (and rightly so). You "might" find a shop that will recore it. Most don't like working on the small stuff. You will have to convince them you are serious and willing to pay the price.

While the thermostat is out, go ahead and replace it, just to say you did. A 180* is a good choice.
 
Hope you live in a state that still boils out radiators. My state got rid of hot tanks years ago. Your only other option is to unsolder the top tank and punch out the tubes. Putting it back together the secret is super clean to shinny brass, and use acid not flux. Just use enough heat to melt 50/50 solder. Stan
 
Went through the checklist.Ive been using the tractor for leisure.I have not tried the flow test.Pour water in the top without having it go into engine and time how long it takes to get to bottom of radiator correct?
 
If it is still on the tractor, fill it with water, start it up, let it get up to temp.

Then you can run your hand over the front feeling the temperature.

If there are cold spots, that area is not getting circulation.

A normal radiator will be uniform temperature side to side, warmer at he top, cooler toward the bottom.
 
Yes cores are plugged as I said must be a year ago u where saying it over heats. And if needs a boil out as I said before. With out thermostats those tractors will not heat up. In cool weather with thermostats they still need the rad coveted. I said that also. U can pour all these things in the rad and waste more time and money. Calcium is hard and takes a hot tank solution to dissolve it. This all should have been done at engine overhaul. Why run tight clearances too hot.
 
I did that with white vinegar and my D17 - the inside of the radiator looked like a shiny new penny after 4 hours on a brush hog.
 
right. he said he did the vinegar thing before and nothing happened. and i cant see it working either. the only time it will work is if the rad cores are NOT PLUGGED . the coolant does not circulate through plugged cores so how will it clean them??? hummm.
 
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