Ford Escape damage pics.

Some pics of the scrap iron to go with my warning post.
cvphoto55512.jpg


cvphoto55513.jpg


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(quoted from post at 07:59:47 09/10/20) Some pics of the scrap iron to go with my warning post.
<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto55512.jpg">

<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto55513.jpg">

<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto55514.jpg">

<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto55516.jpg">

<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto55517.jpg">
Dam, looks like my moms 2001 Chrysler town and country. It has a lot of rust piles under it.
 
Looks like every 8-10 year old cars subframe here. I just order junkyard subframes from Oregon or Arizona. They will stack 3 or 4 together, I sell the others off to pay for the one I get for me.

On flip side can get low mileage cars that need subframe cheap. 200$ of subframe and 100$ of new bushings and bolts you destroy removing old one and you're good for another 2 years when the rear one rots out and you do again.
 
Parts were $768.24 on repair from the dealer's shop. Labor was $1233,86, Didn't have time to look around for another shop. I live 10 miles from town. Wish I lived closer to you this time. Dealer isn't going to look around for a clean used part and miss out on the profit in a new one. More likely to put in a used part and charge for new.
 
That’s pretty fair for dealer parts. The subframe alone new is probably 450$. The labour adds up at dealers for rust work especially as their techs often aren’t familiar with rust and how aggressive you need to be w torches. Spend an hour trying to save a 5$ bolt that you can cut off in 20 secs for example. Or getting seized bolts out of steel sleeve bushings, If they don’t turn immediately they are gonna delaminate and be junk, no sense trying to sawzall them off or trying to drive them out.
 


I am still running an 07 Escape with 160K miles for local use here in NH. Twice a year I crawl around under it looking for problems. When I go under I take WD-40 with me and spray when I find what may be a problem. Then I go back under with aerosol chain lube and put on a more lasting protective coat. When I got it inspected a year ago I noticed that they were looking V E R Y closely under it.
 
The bill from the dealer was $475 for the cross member assembly. I don't have any argument with the cost of the repairs. I have done plenty of work on rusty things and know how many problems you can run into.
 
That indicates far below par design and manufacturing engineering. The manufacturer should be ashamed of themselves. Basically stealing from the customer.
 
I don't think Ford is ashamed of anything. They won't even stand behind their product once it is past the warranty even if the part is faulty. They should not sell a product that can't be used for its intended use for a reasonable period of time.
 
Thanks for the invite, but this old goat is going to die with his boots on right where I am. Born and raised in Wisconsin and haven't seen any place I think would be better. Don't mind the winters, tornados, and mosquitoes. Have lived in several other states and always wanted to come home.
 
I have 2 Escapes. The older one is a 2010 with 310k miles. I drive it daily about 140 miles per day. Has rust on the tailgate, hardly any underneath. I plan to keep driving it to see how far it can go. When it gets there, start driving the 2012 I bought. These are very good cars. Repairs are less when I do it myself too.
 
Was that vehicle only drive during the summer months? Glad to hear that you have very little rust. Keep an eye on that front suspension. Also keep an eye on the rear shock mounts.
 
I just towed a 2012 Jeep Patriot to the dealer for a friend for almost exactly the same issue. Both subframes had been previously repaired and both were rotten again. The drivers side front had moved enough to throw it way out of alignment. Fortunately Fiat Chrysler has put a 10 year warranty on them because it’s a common issue. Glad yours happened while traveling slowly. Sam
 
Eat up pretty good,seems all metal these days isn't very durable.Bolts bought in the last few years will rust up terrible while bolts on old farm equipment 50 years old will come right loose most times with very little rust.
 


Our police department had to replace an Expedition due to the rear axle links rusting out. They were stamped troughs and collected dirt which never dried. I cleaned mine out.
 
I guess we have forums for Boo Birds to come out of the wood work.....LOOK OUT HERE COMES ONE.......on the subject of Ford doesn't care about it's customers....it did for me.

Back in the 1988 time line, Detroit (namesake) got into the water based paint business. I bought a new F150 XLT. Drove it 2 years or so...forget the year exactly....out of warranty for what I am about to say, and "scuttle-butt" at work was that Ford was repainting vehicles that had the paint peeling. Test was a piece of 2" wide duct tape, in several places on the vehicle. Press it on and pull it off. If any paint was removed you got a new paint job.

I took the truck to a dealer and failed the test. He set me up to have the work done....caveat was that it would be done when they had time. He asked me if I had any repairs I needed done. I had an emission issue, a rear fuel tank sending unit out and something else...forget what. He scheduled for me to leave the truck with him. He asked if I had transportation and I said no. He set me up in a rental car. Over all it took about a month before I got my truck back. Looked like new. Repairs completed.

Total price, TTL....................Zero!

I haven't had a Ford since, but one good thing I can say about the truck is that it had velour upholstery and captain's chairs. I smoked about a pack a day back then and had been smoking for some 30 years. When I bought it, I decided I didn't want to stink up my nice new truck so, cold turkey, I just quit smoking. Haven't touched one since.
 

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