- Thread starter chuck2015
- Start date
Ellis Kinney
Well-known Member
Jack up car and turn wheel. You probably can feel or hear it. Ellis
kcm.MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- NW Minnesota
Do you have access to a smooth paved road with little-to-no traffic? If so, drive down the road with one window down and listen. If you start to hear the bearing, remain at that speed, close that window and open the other. You may only hear it while turning, so could check that also.
That's how I used to do it -- but then I'm talking about a '76 Ford truck many years ago. Don't even know if that trick still works.
And then there's always the possibility that the mechanic is trying to drum up some business.
That's how I used to do it -- but then I'm talking about a '76 Ford truck many years ago. Don't even know if that trick still works.
And then there's always the possibility that the mechanic is trying to drum up some business.
John Wilmoth
Member
If one needs replaced the other is close just replace both no guessing.
Billy Shafer
Well-known Member
I agree you can hear it or feel it. But it needs to be repaired. Before you really have problems.
agree.. jack up the car and rotate the wheels - very often touching/holding the spring on the affected corner can make it easier to find the offending bearing.. the spring will transmit even small vibrations more easily.
no need to replace both sides on more modern vehicles with tapered roller bearings.. just do the one that is the problem
and as a side note.. the newer tapered bearings are not an easy job & requires specialized equipment to get them out and back in without damaging the housings.. let the pros handle it. They are not like doing the old ball bearing types.
no need to replace both sides on more modern vehicles with tapered roller bearings.. just do the one that is the problem
and as a side note.. the newer tapered bearings are not an easy job & requires specialized equipment to get them out and back in without damaging the housings.. let the pros handle it. They are not like doing the old ball bearing types.
Goose
Well-known Member
Try to find an empty stretch of highway, and drive at a speed where the bearing is noisy. Then weave the car back and forth across the highway. The noise in the guilty bearing will probably change as the bearing unloads and loads. By listening to each corner of the vehicle, you may be able to pinpoint it.
I'm going through the same thing right now with my wife's Lincoln MKX. My wife swears the noise is coming from the rear, while a local shop says left front. A noise I hear in the center console while riding in the passenger seat makes me tend to agree with the shop. I have new hubs and bearings sitting in my shop for both front sides, waiting to be installed. I need to fabricate an adapter for my bearing press before tackling the job.
The Lincoln MKX and Ford Edge have an interesting setup where you have to pull the whole knuckle and R&R the bearing with a press instead of just unbolting the hub.
I'm going through the same thing right now with my wife's Lincoln MKX. My wife swears the noise is coming from the rear, while a local shop says left front. A noise I hear in the center console while riding in the passenger seat makes me tend to agree with the shop. I have new hubs and bearings sitting in my shop for both front sides, waiting to be installed. I need to fabricate an adapter for my bearing press before tackling the job.
The Lincoln MKX and Ford Edge have an interesting setup where you have to pull the whole knuckle and R&R the bearing with a press instead of just unbolting the hub.
Bob M
Well-known Member
Do exactly as Goose suggests - weave on a quiet stretch of road and listen for changes in sound. A failing bearing will generally get louder when on the outside of of a turn.
Another thing to consider: Worn tires. I thought the front wheel bearings were failing on my wife's Impala. Turned out noise was from worn - but still legal - Goodyear Eagle tires. New tires all around and the car as quiet as new.
Another thing to consider: Worn tires. I thought the front wheel bearings were failing on my wife's Impala. Turned out noise was from worn - but still legal - Goodyear Eagle tires. New tires all around and the car as quiet as new.
Oregon Tractor Jack
Member
I would go with what the mechanic says, they have had more experience with this kind of stuff. I would also replace both sides at the same time, they have been going round and round same amount of time. I had to replace the front bearings on my Dodge truck. Mine was giving ABS faults. I could not really tell the bearings were bad until I had them off. There was a catch spot every once in a while as you spun them by hand.
OTJ
OTJ
DoubleO7
Well-known Member
- Location
- Crystal River, FL
What is the car model and year?
DaveBN
Member
- Location
- Western lower Michigan
I too would do both sides. My old F150 sounded like it had a bad wheel
bearing. I replaced both and still had the noise. Turned out to be
rotted out floor. I traded the truck with the new wheel bearings.
Auto Zone had US made Timken bearings, all others including the dealer
had Chineese bearings.
Dave
bearing. I replaced both and still had the noise. Turned out to be
rotted out floor. I traded the truck with the new wheel bearings.
Auto Zone had US made Timken bearings, all others including the dealer
had Chineese bearings.
Dave
Steve@Advance
Well-known Member
Jack it up, give each wheel a turn.
Usually you will be able to hear it, especially with the cartridge type bearings the newer cars use.
While it's up, look for scalping on the tires. Ripples worn, silver dollar size cups, usually on the outer tread. They can sound exactly like a bad bearing. Try rotating the wheels front to back, see if the noise moves, or put the spare on where you find the scalping.
Usually you will be able to hear it, especially with the cartridge type bearings the newer cars use.
While it's up, look for scalping on the tires. Ripples worn, silver dollar size cups, usually on the outer tread. They can sound exactly like a bad bearing. Try rotating the wheels front to back, see if the noise moves, or put the spare on where you find the scalping.
The new bearing system for front wheels is a step backwards in my opinion. I think they either get too much preload and the bearing wears out too soon or too little and
it it gets loose. And you can't grease them. And there isn't a large space for that big wad of grease between the bearings which well leach enough oil out to keep the
bearing lubed for years and a hundred thousand or better. I NEVER had a front wheel bearing go. On my 07 Dodge 2500 I have had t o replace both sides with less than 75000
miles on it. I have a friend who's son has been out here using my hydraulic press several times for different vehicles he and his wife have had. Another friend has
replaced several on his vehicles. It is one of those "improvements" that isn't.
it it gets loose. And you can't grease them. And there isn't a large space for that big wad of grease between the bearings which well leach enough oil out to keep the
bearing lubed for years and a hundred thousand or better. I NEVER had a front wheel bearing go. On my 07 Dodge 2500 I have had t o replace both sides with less than 75000
miles on it. I have a friend who's son has been out here using my hydraulic press several times for different vehicles he and his wife have had. Another friend has
replaced several on his vehicles. It is one of those "improvements" that isn't.
DMartin9N-2N
Member
Good afternoon: About a year ago, my 2005 Silverado 1/2 ton pickup was making noises when turning (slowly) in a parking lot, one side but not the other. Mechanic said wheel bearing, it includes a thing-a-majig for antilock brakes, so not cheap. About $250.00 and a little while in his shop fixed it. Still ok today.
Dennis M. in W. Tenn.
Dennis M. in W. Tenn.
jaoneill
Member
back in the 80's & 90's I racked up about 80K miles a year on my buicks and found that the wheel bearing had an average life of 60K miles. Because they had the abs sensors in them they were pricey but it was only an hour to hour 1/2 to change one. Have now done all five or six on the better halfs Taurus and they can be a nightmare. because the bearing is steel and the knuckle is aluminum the corrosion between them completely froze the bearing assembly in place. First time around on each corner I had to remove the knuckle and press them out. Cleaned them up and slathered the never seez on reassembly and the next time around they are a breeze. Torque on the axle nut is critical; If I remember the GM's called for 140 ft lbs or thereabouts and if one followed that spec the bearing would only go for about 30K miles, 200 ft lbs bought 60K. The Taurus spec is 265 ft lbs, which is a serious tug on a 36", 3/4" drive torque wrench but seems to work.
I wouldn't drive it another mile until I got it on a lift and checked both sides. I've replaced a fair amount of front wheel bearings indicating an overheat, brown and discolored races and cones. Not
only that but have been driving along and seen a car nearby lose a spindle, wheel and tire probably due to lack of bearing maintenance. Get onto it now.
only that but have been driving along and seen a car nearby lose a spindle, wheel and tire probably due to lack of bearing maintenance. Get onto it now.
oldproudvet
Well-known Member
You very seldom can isolate a failed front wheel bearing on a hoist, unless the inner race or spacers have busted. Not to common. These bearing are integral with the
hub and have to be pressed out. I've found the best way is a freeway clover leaf with no traffic behind me. As you go into the curve, say turning right, the outside
bearing, or the left one will be loaded. If it's bad the growl will intensify, conversely if quiet its the rt side as the bearing is only lightly loaded. As mentioned
below, several times, I'd sure do them both. Even if the bearing fails it is captive in the hub and will not dump you unless you drive on it forever and the hub actually
seizes to the spindle and snaps it. I've seen 2 of those over the years in late 90's Ford Rangers. Larry
hub and have to be pressed out. I've found the best way is a freeway clover leaf with no traffic behind me. As you go into the curve, say turning right, the outside
bearing, or the left one will be loaded. If it's bad the growl will intensify, conversely if quiet its the rt side as the bearing is only lightly loaded. As mentioned
below, several times, I'd sure do them both. Even if the bearing fails it is captive in the hub and will not dump you unless you drive on it forever and the hub actually
seizes to the spindle and snaps it. I've seen 2 of those over the years in late 90's Ford Rangers. Larry
jimg.allentown
Well-known Member
For what it's worth, I have had one of my front bearings growling for going on two years. I have been hoping for it to get bad enough to be able to figure out which one is making the noise.
The last time I had a noisy one, I changed the wrong one. So, I had to take it back off, put on the old one, and put the new one on the other side. My front bearings come as an assembly with the ABS sensor built in and cost around $160 each. Rock Auto has them for about $40 each.
The last time I had a noisy one, I changed the wrong one. So, I had to take it back off, put on the old one, and put the new one on the other side. My front bearings come as an assembly with the ABS sensor built in and cost around $160 each. Rock Auto has them for about $40 each.
18 years ago I made a good living diagnosing CV noise and wheel bearings. When
we bought the last PU I heard the bearing on the test drive. A drop in price and
an order from Rock Auto, and it took me an hour to install it. 18 years ago my
ears were a lot better,I still have not put the old one on the other side, but I
need to do that.
we bought the last PU I heard the bearing on the test drive. A drop in price and
an order from Rock Auto, and it took me an hour to install it. 18 years ago my
ears were a lot better,I still have not put the old one on the other side, but I
need to do that.
Repairman60
Member
An old mechanic told me once to jack
front end up, place finger on coil spring
and spin wheel. You will feel the bad
bearing in the spring. I guess the spring
amplifies it. Never tried it never needed
too. Always have remembered it for some reason. Maybe I will need it some day. Then probably will not remember it!
front end up, place finger on coil spring
and spin wheel. You will feel the bad
bearing in the spring. I guess the spring
amplifies it. Never tried it never needed
too. Always have remembered it for some reason. Maybe I will need it some day. Then probably will not remember it!
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