806 update

rustred · Sep 2, 2020

when working in field i notice if you turn the steering wheel to the max each way the light will come on. and if you throttle down to about 1500 rpm it will start flickering. and when shifting into gear there is a hesitation before take off then a jump ahead and she goes to the races. i am thinking the pump is weak and not producing enough pressure and flow. but yes i will check pressures soon as i can here. just threw this out if any one experienced the same thing. no sign of loosing steering or brakes.

Janicholson · Sep 2, 2020

Every piece of the description indicated that the direct clutch has failed in the TA, and the sprag clutch has failed allowing it to slip, then grab, then slip. The rear hydraulic clutch will also have failed because it is not designed to be slipped, and when the tractor is slipping when in TA redution, the clutch is either burning, or burnt. Don't keep testing things, it has failed. More testing is more money. Just cleaning up the grit and probable metal fragments in the entire drive train will be very expensive, let alone the broken parts. Good luck. Jim

rustred · Sep 2, 2020

so are u saying the tractor cant be used because the TA is shot??? i was under the impression that if a person dont use the TA no harm is done. guess it sure is not my 660, been using it for over ten years with out the TA working.

pete 23 · Sep 2, 2020

Adjust the dump valve so it closes sooner when you let the clutch pedal out. Your main clutch is engaging now before the direct drive ta clutch pack. Low side is shot so it it doesn't engage and when direct drive engages as you let clutch out farther it jumps like a frog.

You can run with direct only but not if that red light is on. I would want to know lube pressure at operating rpm's and if it is maybe 15 psi or higher you will be ok.

I adjusted a lot of dump valves throwing out the book just to keep a tractor going until , well, forever if you want to go without low side of TA.

Also, if you have a flashing style bulb in the red light I would throw that bulb and put in a solid light, number 57 so no guessing if light is on or off because those flashers will throw you.

Janicholson · Sep 2, 2020

The big frame TA has three clutches, two of them are driven by MCV pressure directed by the TA lever to either engage the direct clutch (front), or the rear clutch TA holding clutch to prevent runaway down hill, but it is a weak clutch not designed for engine power at all, and a Sprag clutch (one way), which takes all the TA main body reverse rotation and transfers it to the housing. Just like a Mechanical TA in smaller tractors. If the front clutch fails, and bleeds off substantial MCV pressure it slips, forcing the TA main body to turn backward. This puts the power on the sprag clutch which has failed (it slips intermittently.
In mechanical TA tractors, if the Sprag clutch fails, the friction disk dry clutch drives the TA at crank shaft RPM and the tractor remains operational in direct drive. If a front dry clutch fails in a mechanical TA, it will drive in TA reduction all the time, TA lever forward or back. If the sprag clutch also fails in a small frame tractor, it will not move. Jim

Janicholson · Sep 2, 2020

With the garbage in the filter, I think it likely that the TA clutches are where it came from. The entire system and trans is filled with granular pieces the size of sand. Not what I would call likely success when the tractor is acting as it is. Jim

rustred · Sep 2, 2020

i have been thinking the same thing as to give the dump valve less stroke, was going to try that in the morning. exactly the info i wanted. there is no reason at all that i need a working TA. i have actual gears to pick from. she pulls good in 4 low at 5 3/4 mph. i thought after reading jim's statement i would have to sell this junk pile and only had it one week. be my first and last TA unit. plus i have small machinery in the 14 ft wide like disc and deep tillage. it sure like its fuel though appears like 5 gallons per hr. 8 hrs and and is empty.

the tractor vet · Sep 3, 2020

Well Now going on what three days now looking for the magic pill that will heal your problems over night or is this day four ??? There is no pill or adjustment that is going to make this tractor heal it's self and the only way will be a double split and start fixen . Neither myself , Pete or Owen can do five hail Mary's , light candles offer a sacrifice to the gods or any other person that thinks the know all. Ya want it to go then time to pay tuition payment to the collage of buying old tractors with out taking someone who knows them with you . We all have paid into this collage of tractor knowledge . and some end up paying more when they try to DIY it . Long gone are the days of a out the door 1450 dollar clutch T/A and MCV rebuild labor included . Now you will have over that in parts . Now the next thing that will come up is just do away with the T/A , yep ya can do that , BUT to do that it will cost you with in a couple hundred bucks of fixing it right and in the end loosen up to 3 grand in resale . Then keep in mind here EVERYTHING is BIG and Heavy .

806 update

rustred

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Janicholson

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rustred

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pete 23

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Janicholson

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Janicholson

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rustred

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the tractor vet

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