calling tractor vet. 806 specialist.

ok so here is the hyd. filter it had in it. changes that went back to field and did some discing.very little improvement. still hesitates when letting clutch out. tales 2-3 seconds then jumps ahead. then went back to yard and added more oil so its overfull. not much difference. when i pull TA back the light comes on. something really crazy going on. it never seams to do the same thing. sometime light stays on and tractor wont move and the next time it goes out pretty much as clutch is released . the next time it will go out and jump ahead. it also appears with higher rpm the light seams to do its thing better. this last time in field at high rpm the light started flickering and tractor started jerking as in clutch slipping. they say these are a mechanical clutch so how can the tractor be jerking ? i am thinking there must be some o rings in mcvalve body screwed up as by the looks of that filter this tractor had poor maintenance. plus it sat for 45 years not used. this makes me really like my 660 now.

also to add ,... how can the TA not work at times tractor wont move when light goes out. and sometime it will work. i dont have a service manual either. clutch adjustment is good and tryed dump valve also as you said.

By the looks of that filter you need to either change filter real often for a few months or the oil also. Then if the screen was not washed out it needs to be. It is fine so don't push on it to hard. I still say the linkage adjustment is needed now.

The problem is your TA. Not the clutch.I dont believe any amount of 'adjusting' will solve your problem.But try it. If it works,problem solved. You're simply conna need a new TA.all that 'stuff' looks like clutch faceing material.that can only come from the TA,not the clutch,as the clutch is in a completely different dry houseing.TV's adjusting instructions are in the archives,he has posted them many times.Drain out all that old dirty contaminated oil,replace the filter a few times till it clears up.

ok . so how can the tractor be working in direct drive in 4 low and the light starts flickering and tractor starts jerking. i can see that using TA , but how can it do that in direct. or am i missing something here. i also was thinking to check filter screen again, as i cleaned it yesterday along with a new filter. and what is this adjustment you are referring to? i went through the clutch adjustment it was good. checked dump valve and tryed it as the book says at 9/16 travel. also did it the vets way. i dont care if the TA dont work but it should not be doing all this stupid stuff.

Well from what i see i see lots of clutch lining fibersthat more then likely came from either the T/A or the PTO . With that being said the WHOLE hyd system has been starved .With out being there and looking and watching it sound like the dump valve is sticking BUT to be sur here again I would have to be there to see what and how is happening . Keep in mind here ALL the clutch packs in the T/A require hyd pressure from the MCV to lock up and MOVE the tractor . The dump valve does just that it DUMPS hyd pressure off the clutch pac.'s so you can shift them with no gear hang . The little blinky light in the gauge cluster tells you when you either have NO Hyd pressure at the MCV due to either you depressing the clutch pedal or a system failure in the MCV system. That oil light also is the ENGINE LOW OIL PRESSURE light ( yea i always thought that was a stupid idea ) with as contaminated as that system is and BTW that is the worst i have ever seen every pump in that tractor has been starved and i am sure has damage . Some of that crud could have been sucked around the filter and invaded the MCV and has valves sticking . all in all you have a MESS . Where would i start , like i have said many times over i would start with a total drain of the HYD OIL buy a CASE of filters and NEW filter gskts and then TESTING of the whole HYD system for flow rate and pressures at operating temp . Then and only then would the parts list be made . as for YOU getting into the MCV valve body as a Novice first off ya need a clean work area i prefer a metal work bench a good stout vice . The valves and springs are under spring pressure and they will go flying when the plugs are removed ( i personally turely hate crawling around on the floor valves and springs that end up bouncing off the back wall of a 72 foot shop ) NO RAGS NO PAPER TOWELS , clean parts cleaning fluid and compressed air only for cleaning For BURR removal polishing cloth only as all valves are fitted to the bore if ya got a score ya smooth it up but not take or try and remove the score line . The steering orface ya leave it alone . When removing the MCV from the frame you have to be careful of the sump check plug and spring , they are located in the lower right hand corner of the frame . I also do believe that with the fine care that tractor has hand in it's life that you will become and expert of every inch of that tractor and every nut and bolt .

ya im on the same page as you , cause when i saw that filter my first thought was oil starvation and wondered how much of that garbage got sucked around into mcv . thats why i keep thinking thats my problem as it does different things . so is it safe to use as is and hope things will flush themselves , or is this doing more damage? thanks for now.

You want me to be a mind reader also here . God only knows and will it flush out that is like sayen i will hit the lotto tonight when i did not even buy a ticket . One other little tid bit here ya NEVER use ucky pucky anywhere even close to anything like Hyd systems oil pans valve covers axle housing gskts on tractors matting gskts on the trans and rear ends . with as much clutch metrial on that filter shows me something is totally TRASHED OUT , Did this all come from the T/A ????? or did it come from the PTO ???? If it came from the T/A then my Cristal ball tells me i see a double split in the offing and some smashed fingers in the vary near future and a BIG dent in the piggy bank. Because that little darling has internal injurys and needs major surgery . It is possible that the contamination is thru the whole tractor all the way up to the ft. steering bolster . I had that problem Many years ago in a 460 i bought , I can not tell you just how many Cases yes FOUR cases of Hdy filters i went thru and atleast 110 gallon of Hy Tran and Never did get it all cleaned out even after we took the top deck off and STEAM Cleaned the trans and rear end housings and with two cow magnets placed in the filter housing they still came out fuzzy every week , and it was still screwing up the pressure reg valve to the point it would KILL the engine . So yes stuff can get sucked around that style filter and IF and again i said IF the square o/Ring Behind the tin cup where the fliter set is GONE then she sucked a lot past and BTW i find that o/ ring missing on lots of them .

TA's got problems regardless. Sprag is not engaging which usually means it will come out in a pile of bits in your hand when you pull the TA unit and open it up.

All TA's have a sprag in them. A good sprag will pull regardless of adjustment, regardless of hydraulic pressure. If the tractor stops when you pull the TA lever, the sprag is GONE.

ok so i just came in from working it. before i started it i removed the drain plug and caught some oil just to see what was in it. dont see
anything abnormal. yes has the square o ring in the filter. so on field pulled TA back from start out and she was pulling. then started to
slip so shifted back to direct and she jumped ahead and away it went. worked for an hr. then stopped to check if any leaks. step on
clutch shift into gear let out clutch and light stays for like 5 seconds then jumps ahead. when oil is cold it works the way it should. once
hot the light wont go out. ok so here is a theory... what if valve body has a crack in spool bore and wont let pressure build fast enough? is
that make any sense? tractor has 5000 hrs and i can see it has never been split for TA.

Running not bad cold but acting up hot and running better at high revs can that be an indication that the mcv pump is not good? I guess gauge testing will tell some of that which I haven't got into. A redo on the mcv pump and gaskets and springs is a way different deal than the ta.