Shipping Container Suggestions

Several folks have mentioned using shipping containers for storage at their farms... Any suggestions on best people/companies to work with? I need to get a 40’ to a farm in central Ohio.

Also looking for comments on best method to build a bit of a simple base, to set the container.

Any suggestions are welcome.

Thanks.

have been good with railroad cross tie at each end on 3 containers

Get two twenty's you will be happier. Easier to get to what is stored and easier to move.

Take a look at this thread while your researching.
https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1386078&highlight=shipping+containers
https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1428203&highlight=shipping+containers

(quoted from post at 19:08:46 08/19/20) Get two twenty's you will be happier. Easier to get to what is stored and easier to move.

Click to expand...

That is true.
But around here you can buy two 40 footers for less than two 20 footers.
Install doors in the closed end and still be under the cost of two 20 footers.

Wonder if Jon has any ideas?



Paul

R R ties or bridge timbers at the tie down points. Be sure that they are not going to be blown away in the wind. In my opinion, they should make better storage facilities than wore out semi trailers.

With a container from anyone be sure to look it over good for water leaks. Chances are the container was taken out of service because the top was damaged in some way or another. Go in it on a sunny day and see if you can see any light coming through. Then look at the deck for any signs of being wet.

I saw this the other day and thought it would really make a nice storage building.

wow, I just sold 6 of them. Buckeye Trailer sales does a good job delivering. Craigslist Cleveland usually has sellers, that is where I got the 6 I just sold. For long term use I would suggest roof vents, I have had pretty good luck with the spinning roof vents and keeping things dry.

in the summer heat they will get so hot in there you will not stand it. but all depends on what your plans are. insulate ? also lot of people put the whirly vents on the top. set them in shade. they can be set on gravel or railroad ties. the only benefit i see in them is they are rodent proof. and paying 4000.00 for one its a good part of a shed being built from poles.

get the hi cube

The price varies by the condition.

Pay extra and get one with well closing doors and it will be rodent proof!

There are lots of options with containers and they can get to be big money. If looks is not a big deal get a high grade used container. They will be beat up and ugly colors but should be guaranteed to be wind, water and rodent proof.

As far as setting all you need is a 6x6 or railroad tie under each end. They should sit on the corner pockets unless your going to load well over 100,000 pounds. They will settle and twist and the doors can get hard to close so you may need to level them again in a year or so. They don't need to be level side to side or front to back, just not twisted.

Lube the hinges regularly with oil and lube the door seals with Vaseline. Oil or grease will make the seals hard so don't use that on the seals.

We sell the lowest grade that seals in 40' for about $2500 plus delivery. The newest that are called "one trip" containers and in the high cube get close to $4000 plus delivery.

There are lots of options like doors on both ends and regular or high cube which are about a foot taller. You can also get side doors, but those get high buck.

About the best and most common upgrades are the high cube which allows higher clearance. And double doors, which means doors on both ends. The double doors will be spendy as most are new unles you catch one coming off a rental fleet. But doors on each end is very handy since you don't need to unload everything to get at what's in the back.

As to venting, you will find that most are vented already at the top. The problem with them is there is no air inlet at the bottom. We sell the vents that are used at the top to be installed at the bottom so the air can circulate. A couple small vents on the bottom and they don't get near as hot and stay dry.

I would like to find some even if they leaked. I was going to set them so I could put 60 foot trusses ontop of them for an 18 foot clearance under them. Then with them 2 long I could have from 80-96 feet long. I would put them on a cement slab to keep varmints out from under them. Also to put them up so the water didn't splash on them during rains.

John has pretty well give you the details. I have several that have been on Railroad ties for years and never a problem. I do not see the hot weather here in Tennessee however mine are also in the shade. Have to set down and 24ft bar joist in between makes a 24 by 40 shed. For years one could be bought of $1000 to 12 hundred but they are higher now. I would definitely get the Hi Cub or taller box, just works better.

An auctioneer that I know has 2 consignment auctions per year (except this year). He buys 2 shipping containers per year loaded with merchandise from China. The containers have the standard doors at one end but also have 2 doors on the sides. When empty, he sells those also. They make nice accessible storage.

Make sure you do your homework and compare apples to apples because most containers are sold "Next off stack"
You do not get to pick the container you want.

There are many classes of containers but the 4 you most often hear are.....
The lowest grade is "As Is" will have holes; leaks; condition unknown.
Next up is wind and water tight. Will have rust and dents; needs paint and is only guaranteed to be wind, water and rodent tight.
Next up is cargo worthy. Same as WWT but it is certified to be used as a shipping container that is structurally sound to go on the bottom of the stack.
Next is one trip. These will have less rust; dents; and better paint. Most are less than a year old but you will pay a lot extra for these.

There is also a class of repaired containers but most sell these lumped in with sea/cargo worthy containers.
The repairs may have been made to remove holes or large dents to certify them.

So while Joe may have a better price than Fred make sure the containers Joe and Fred are trying to sell you are the same category.

check your zoning regs.lots of places they are a no go

Neighbor has a 40ft one he got about 10 years ago,sat it on a bed of gravel,doors on it still work fine.Company advertises on CL 40ft container for $2500 delivered 5 year warranty.