Ford 7810 won''t lift Pick up Hitch PUH high enough.

Darrellspeed

New User
hi All, I decided to part ex my 76 in for a 7810, and the dealer told me to take my puh off the 76, and fit it on the 78 as it didn't have one. So I've got it all up in place, and slowly lifted the arms to get rhe adjustment set up, but after trying I ran out of adjustment, I've checked the part numbers and they all match up, unless they were redesigned at some point, and given more adjustment??

The link arms hang very low though, so I'm wondering if the lift height can be adjusted on the splines somehow?

Can anyone shed any light on this for me please?

Many thanks in advance.
 

My 8240, if I pushed the quadrant down too fast would sort of "disconnect" from the control leaving the lift up. The solution was just to pull it back up then lower the lever slowly.
 
Is this that European hitch deal, I’m a little lost as to what we are talking about?

Paul
 

No its the England type which drops down, goes under trailer loop then picks it up and then pulls up and the hooks lock under it to keep it in place.
 
Hello. Here in the U.K. and Europe the PUH, auto-hitch, or hook-hutch has been the most efficient and safest hitch type type to use when towing a two-wheel trailer or heavy implement. This is due to the fact that the loading point of the implement is much closer to the rear axle line of the tractor than it would be with a drawbar or swinging drawbar. This also minimises weight loss on the front wheels of the tractor.....making it far safer. The auto-hutch came into regular use with the advent of the Ferguson TE 20s in 1947/8. It was claimed that a TE20 with an auto-hutch would outpull a Fordson Major with a drawbar. There are a number of different types in use. Essentially a large hook pivots forward of the axle line and originally a ‘T-bar’ fitted to the lift arms and hinge pin point with stays down to the hook was used on TE20s. The 3-point was raised and a button pressed to release the mechanism. It was then lowered and the hook engaged in the eye on the trailer drawbar. The linkage was then raised until it locked into place and then lowered slightly. The trailer weight then was supported by a mechanical lock and not by hydraulic pressure. Rods and chains and latterly telescopic bars have been used to raise the hook. Most manufacturers now attach the lift rods/bars/chains to the upper lift arms and have the locking point in the hook frame.
DavidP,South Wales
 
I'm not sure but I think your rock shaft maybe splined. That could change max lift height if they are on a different spline.
Do both tractors have assistor rams? If so measure and see if they both lift the same height maybe.
If all else fails you may have to shorten the links on the pick up hitch.
 

Hi Chris I've already used all the adjustment up, and as I px'd the 76 for this one I cant measure the rams, I have managed to move the draft lever and just about achieved the extra lift, I also believe the rock shaft is splined, but i dont know if i can just move it to one side and rotate it slightly? Or if I need to take the top cover off to do it?
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top