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Todays 960 update

grandpa Love

grandpa Love

Well-known Member
Spent a couple of hours yesterday fooling
around with the sickle mower. Hand spun
it a thousand times. Tried a different
drive shaft, no change. Found 2 loose
sections and wear plates need to slide
forward a bit. But the big thing I took
sway bars off tractor and slid mower over
until the drive shaft was straight. That
seems to have solved the clunking noise.
Now I have to move it on the frame. Then
the spring and cable will need adjusting.
Maybe this is the fix. SV Cummins texted
a bunch helping trouble shoot and Old
called. Plus the help I got on here.
Great site. ( I checked the timing of
mower first, it was good)
cvphoto50458.jpg

Picture is before I slid it over.
Moving it will move the shoe in line with
the tire. I think that's where its
supposed to be.
 
It's hard to tell with that rag hanging there, but it almost looks like the universal joints on your PTO shaft are out of phase by 90 degrees.

The yokes connected directly to each end of the shaft should be on the same "plane," lined up with each other.

Some guys will try to tell you it doesn't matter. Well, sometimes it doesn't, but many times it does. If the connection is a pretty straight shot, doesn't matter. That's probably why the issue is going away as you swing the mower to straighten the shaft.
 
Could be someone put the wrong shaft on or welded a new one in wrong. Like other poster said should line up from factory.
 
Just 3 degrees off will make a drive shaft clunk.

Take the top ujoint and turn it to where it is perfectly level across one of the cups.
Now without moving the shaft check the other end of the shaft. If it is not perfectly level the shaft is out of time and will clunk.
 

Check the u-joint timing, but definitely get the offset correct for your wheel width. The manuals tells about shaft offset to center line and inner shoe location in relation to the tire.
 
How much slop do you have between the tractor and mower shafts when they are together? If you have much play and the shaft being offset it'll raise cain when running.
 
The mower is set out for if you had the wheels set wide for using a row crop cultivator on 36-40" rows.
 
Not about your mower, but did you ever get the drawbar made that I sent you the dimensions for? I'm still looking for one around here for you. If I might make a small suggestion about the mower, and I know a lot of guys will not agree with me but I bought a drum mower a few years ago and sold my sickle mower and it's problems to someone else. I can mow in the morning when the hay is wet and it mows clean without any plugging. You might want to give it some thought. Keith
 
So what is the advantage of mowing when the grass is wet and trapping a bunch of moisture in and under the hay? Then it has to be tedded? In the South in hot weather cut it in the afternoon when the moisture is down in the grass and then bale the next after noon most times after raking only.
 
We tedd all the hay as soon as the top is wilted good, never has bothered the hay when mowed wet around here. With a summer like we're having there won't be much wet at all.
 
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