Farmall 130 no start

yeld

Member
I recently installed new points and condenser on my farmall 130.It ran great for a while but the next time I tried to start it wouldn't fire.I checked with test light and if I put a small piece of wood between the contact points I have power to positive side of the coil and the negative side.But if I remove the wood chip no power to the negative side of the coil.I can't see anything wrong in the distributer to short it out .It has the rubber washers on the side terminal.Can anyone tell me what could be wrong or what to check?Thanks
 
Yeld, you state: "if I put a small piece of wood between the contact points I have power to positive side of the coil and the negative side. But if I remove the wood chip no power to the negative side of the coil"

FYI THATS EXACTLY HOW IT SHOULD BEHAVE IE the points must be working and doing their job

A) If the points are open (wood between them) and the coils LV Primary is continuous, you read the same voltage on the coils output (to distributor) as the input (from ignition switch)

B) HOWEVER if the points are closed that takes the coils output to ground (so it can conduct current) so there's no voltage

To find the cause of no spark if you work through my Ignition troubleshooting Procedure linked below it can help find the problem

http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=farmall&th=5745

John T
John Ts Ignition Troubleshooting
 
"if I put a small piece of wood between the contact points I have power to positive side of the coil and the negative side"

Based on that info, my GUESS would be that the breaker points are set "too tight" and are not breaking (opening) as each distributor cam lobe passes under the wear block on the moveable breaker point.

But maybe we should back up a little... have you cranked the engine to a point where the rubbing block is on the can and verified that the points DO open? (.020", IIRC.)
 
John,

I caught my error after I posted, did not think to ask if light pulsed when cranked.

Arg.....
 
Let’s break down John T’s engineering speak a little. In A) he references the ..LV primary.. which is the coils low voltage winding. What he is saying is that the primary winding is actually a continuous wire just wrapped in circles inside the coil. Somewhat similar to having a 100 foot extension cord wrapped around a 5 gallon bucket. It will still power something on the other end. The points which may be obvious are just a switch to ground; all be it switching on and off very fast. I don’t know if I can add much more detail with out this being long as my arm. I will attach a link to a very good detailed document that explains battery powered points and coil ..Kettering.. ignition systems. Hope this helps, John Ts trouble shooting guide is very good to follow to help diagnose an ignition problem. I learned a lot of my basic electrical theory in my youth playing with batteries, train sets, flashlight bulbs and battery operated electric motors.
Spark Ignition explanation guide
 
Hmm, my link was disabled, maybe YT did not like the non secure URL. Let’s see if it will work another way. If the link posts you will have to click the chapter 6 at the bottom. If it does not work the Safari browser on my iPhone must be able to navigate an unsecure Site but YT has to block it for obvious reasons. If it does not work I will have to see if an updated secure URL can be obtained, the info was posted here once by another poster and the link is to a farmallcub.com address.
2nd try at ignition info
 
David, You're NOT alone, Ive been there done that, my fingers get ahead of my brain all the time grrrrrrrrrrrrr

John T
 

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