wore out
Well-known Member
I'm starting a new thread about your series-parallel switch in an attempt to help you, the other thread has wandered off to a similar switch on a semi truck with different wire colors.
This thing DID work before you worked on it, correct?
Your switch CANNOT work with the red wire connected to stud "7" not connected to anything at the other end as the #7 stud is what activates the solenoid coil in the S. P. switch.
How can it POSSIBLY get power to operate the solenoid coil with the wire just dangling in mid air somewhere?
Had you answered my question as to where the red and yellow wires went earlier on in the thread we could have gotten this solved a LOT sooner.
You now state that the yellow wire comes from the "start" terminal on the keyed "ignition switch".
That wire needs to go to Terminal 7.
It has NO BUSINESS up on terminal 4, as that upper section of the switch is used to configure the system for charging by the generator or alternator, or activating the OEM solenoid on the starter itself.
(The contacts between 3, 4, and 5 MAY have gotten damaged if excessive current lowed there, the current handling ability of those upper contacts is minuscule compared to the contacts with the large copper studs.)
Put the yellow wire on #7, attach an unpowered test light to the #7 terminal and chassis ground and try to crank the engine.
Test light should light AND engine should crank. Be aware there is a neutral safety switch or two in the yellow wire, between the keyed switch and the end of the yellow wire in the photos.
(Any idea why the unused red wire is there?)
This thing DID work before you worked on it, correct?
Your switch CANNOT work with the red wire connected to stud "7" not connected to anything at the other end as the #7 stud is what activates the solenoid coil in the S. P. switch.
How can it POSSIBLY get power to operate the solenoid coil with the wire just dangling in mid air somewhere?
Had you answered my question as to where the red and yellow wires went earlier on in the thread we could have gotten this solved a LOT sooner.
You now state that the yellow wire comes from the "start" terminal on the keyed "ignition switch".
That wire needs to go to Terminal 7.
It has NO BUSINESS up on terminal 4, as that upper section of the switch is used to configure the system for charging by the generator or alternator, or activating the OEM solenoid on the starter itself.
(The contacts between 3, 4, and 5 MAY have gotten damaged if excessive current lowed there, the current handling ability of those upper contacts is minuscule compared to the contacts with the large copper studs.)
Put the yellow wire on #7, attach an unpowered test light to the #7 terminal and chassis ground and try to crank the engine.
Test light should light AND engine should crank. Be aware there is a neutral safety switch or two in the yellow wire, between the keyed switch and the end of the yellow wire in the photos.
(Any idea why the unused red wire is there?)
