Hydraulic control valve

grandpa Love · Jun 7, 2020

So.........major confusion. I guess the possibility of finding the exact same valve is slim to none. Will this one work? Google insists on confusing me. Lol

caterpillar guy · Jun 7, 2020

It will if you know whether you have an open or closed center system. Then just bolt to a plate so it sets in the correct orientation I would get one with a joy stick though. Simpler and easier to run.

Tx Jim · Jun 7, 2020

I doubt you will be able to feather(control infinitely) a hyd function with a 25 GPM on tractor shown in your photo. My guess 10-15 GPM valve would be a better choice

Jim.ME · Jun 7, 2020

I believe that is an open center system.

As for mounting I believe you will need to make provisions to return the oil to the reservoir from a new valve, in addition to physically mounting the valve. I think the current valve discharges return oil directly into the reservoir through the back of the valve, where it bolts to the tower. Also if your lift cylinders are single acting you will need porting to dump oil from the new valve's lowering circuit (unless you get one designed for single acting cylinders on the lift valve) to the reservoir when lowering. If you just plug the line, that would go to the lowering side of double acting lift cylinders, you will force the return oil through the relief valve when lowering, which may cause heating in the short term, and other issues in the long term. Just my thoughts

coshoo · Jun 7, 2020

Does the loader have a separate hydraulic pump? If so, it looks like the pedestal that the valve is bolted to is the oil reservoir for the system. Unbolt the valve to see if the oil returning to the valve is just dumped straight back into the pedestal through the valve. If so, you'll have to make provision for an oil return if you get a different valve (and I seriously doubt you'll ever find a valve like you've got). Easiest way would be to tap a pipe threaded hole into the square plate you make to cover the hole. BTW, if you have a separate (front) pump, the system is almost certainly open center.

jm. · Jun 7, 2020

So Jim tell me why you make that statement. I have been around hydraulics for 50+ years and total
flow really has nothing to do with relative work at the spool. Looks to me like that is prety much
the standard farm valve for old tractors. Anything less is going to have smaller work ports and
could actually heat or cause restrictions. Just my one man,t opinion.

grandpa Love · Jun 7, 2020

Jim Me ours is leaking where #61 comes
out of the main housing. Maybe a simple
seal? We are leaning towards taking it
apart and fixing it. It bolts to the
loader frame, which is the fluid tank

Steve@Advance · Jun 7, 2020

Is #62 a seal?

Can't that just be replaced?

Tx Jim · Jun 7, 2020

JM
My understanding is the higher the GPM of a control valve utilized on a lower GPM hyd pump limits the operator ability to infinitely control movement of hyd cylinder rods in/out of cyl. Most older type standard farm valves I've been acquainted with are a lot less than 25 GPM

Mike(NEOhio) · Jun 7, 2020

Do the boom cylinders have only one line to them or two? If one you'll need a single acting valve for that circuit. The valve you're looking at can be used with either open or closed center by changing the large hex plug. Get on the Prince website and look at the specs for the RD-5000 series. I'd tear that valve down and investigate before I buy a new one. May be that #61 seal but if oil is coming out there it's getting past the spool, probably due to wear. Those seals aren't for pressure.

Jim.ME · Jun 7, 2020

(quoted from post at 09:31:16 06/07/20) Jim Me ours is leaking where #61 comes
out of the main housing. Maybe a simple
seal? We are leaning towards taking it
apart and fixing it. It bolts to the
loader frame, which is the fluid tank

Yes, it is a simple seal. The seal is the same for both spools. I would try resealing it before going for a new valve. It may require measuring and matching the seal if the numbers don't cross. A dealer might be able to use the number in the book, I haven't found a cross for it yet. And when you get it off the loader frame I believe you will confirm it is dumping oil into the reservoir directly from the valve.

Check out my post of yesterday. I told you where, (the N tractor club library) to find parts and service manuals for 101/102 loaders that will help you until/if you want to buy the ones AGCO says are for it. That is where that drawing came from and the other pages of it will identify the key number items for you, as well as many more components.

shaun wallace · Jun 7, 2020

If the spools are not pitted or chrome gone where exposed I would try to find orings or what ever type seal is used. There shurly is a good hyd repair shop in your area that will get or has in stock the seals.

Jim.ME · Jun 7, 2020

It might also help folks if you confirm a couple things.

1. The loader is supplied by a pump mounted in the nose of the tractor, driven off the front of the crankshaft.

2. From looking further at the manuals it appears your lift and dump cylinders are all double acting (hoses to both ends of the cylinders, so they can be powered both ways). Is this correct?

jm. · Jun 7, 2020

Thanks Sure not going to argue , I think if I were him I would try hard to fix that valve first
,before going to something where a lot of re-plumbing will be required.

wore out · Jun 7, 2020

WHY are you even considering replacing that valve when most likely all it needs is a seal ring?

Whatever you replace it with won't mount as compactly, won't be as convenient, and will require an external return hose.

I have owned two loaders with that valve and put seals in both, with success.

Trouble is it's been over 20 years and I can't remember if the are a simple O-ring or a "chevron" type seal. Either way, they will be available by dimension from a hydraulic supplier.

I currently have a similar loader for an 8N Ford that's not mounted, to which the P.O. cobbled on a generic valve as you are proposing, looks like HECK compared to what's supposed to be there, wish I could find a used, correct valve!

Take the 4-bolt cover off of the bottom, the spools can be withdrawn downward, remove one at a time and/or see SURE to put them back in the same bore.

Once you have one out you can determine the exact seal rings needed.

Care is required putting the spool back in so as not to cut the new seal rings.

grandpa Love · Jun 7, 2020

Jim ME. Thats correct. My wife has been
doing tons of research and next rainy day
I think we are going to tackle a repair.
I guess we will open it up and remove the
leaky side. Then measure the busted seal
and see if we can find one.

el6147 · Jun 7, 2020

check your email.

Jim.ME · Jun 7, 2020

(quoted from post at 20:02:24 06/07/20) Jim ME. Thats correct. My wife has been
doing tons of research and next rainy day
I think we are going to tackle a repair.
I guess we will open it up and remove the
leaky side. Then measure the busted seal
and see if we can find one.

You will make out fine. Just watch out for things popping apart because of the springs in it. Those little steel balls like to escape.

Hydraulic control valve

grandpa Love

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caterpillar guy

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Tx Jim

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Jim.ME

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coshoo

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jm.

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grandpa Love

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Steve@Advance

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Tx Jim

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Mike(NEOhio)

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Jim.ME

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shaun wallace

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Jim.ME

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jm.

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grandpa Love

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el6147

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