1949 farmall c

Hobbs49

New User
I have 49 farmall c left to me by my grandpa that Im looking to restore. My biggest hurdle right now is Ive got a cracked engine block. The tractor fires and runs but leaks. Im wondering if you guys could tell me where I can buy another engine block or exactly what engine block for sure I need to look for. Theres too much mixed info online. Thanks
 
An "A" or "B' block will not have the hole in the block to mount the hydraulic pump. You will need, if you intend to keep the hydraulic option, a block from a Super, A, 100, 130, C or Super C. There are internal differences in these blocks but all of them will fit your Farmall C.
A block from a 140 will fit but radiator would have to be changed and you would also have to use the cylinder head from the 140. The 140 radiator is taller which would require using a Super C grill and gas tank.
A low cost method, if not a really severe leak, could be made by adding K & W block seal or something similar and see if that would work.
And as others have mentioned, it is a common problem and there are many that have been welded by a competent welder.
 
If it's not structural or too bad, I've repaired Case DC blocks with JB Weld. Case blocks tend to crack in the same place when they freeze. V the crack out with a grinder. Careful you don't go all the way through so you have a "base" to get the JB to stick to. (Don't know how thick a Farmall C block is, compared to a DC's, they are about 1/4" thick.) Make sure it's clean, dry, and oil free. The block needs to be warm to the touch and see that you follow the application conditions in the JB instructions. Let it dry at least 2x longer than instructions tell you so it is thoroughly cured. If it still leaks, do it again JB-is cheaper than welding. Make sure it's clean and dry. I've used a heat gun to warm the block when starting the job.
 
I was given one once with a cracked block, I welded it the best I could, then put some stop leak in it, was fine after that. If
your not a confident welder I would try the JB Weld.
 
The engine in a 1949 C is a C113. A C123 will work. Either one needs the hole under the distributor for the hydraulic pump drive. Early C113's did not have provisions for a hyd pump.
Dennis
 
If it is the usual crack on the side of the block from freezing you could clean it and put a steel patch on with small screws and gasket sealer.
 
I you look behind the carburetor on this A, you will see a patch runs the length o the side and wraps around the front. I was on this tractor when I got it 15 years ago. I'm assuming there is a crack under it. It has never leaked.

cvphoto46207.jpg
 
Here's probably more info than you want. Copied from my arcive notes

Was mainly for Farmall A & Super A reference, but applies to a C

C113 and C123 Farmall Engines

The block part number is directly behind the oil filter, cast digits about 3/4" high. Original engines would have been; Farmall A - block 6342 DH, Super A up to serial number 310300 block part number 251069 R1, Super A after serial number 310301 block part number 354898 R1.

Farmall A started of with block part number 6342 DH and you can get 113 or 123 sleeves for it, but it is not drilled for a hydraulic pump. Block part number 251069 R1 was used in early SA (up to serial 310300) and all Farmall C, and you can get both 3" bore (113) or 3-1/8" bore (123), Block part number 354898 R1 was used in Super A after serial 310300 and all Super C, It was also used in 100 and 200 as R2 or R3, you can get 3" bore, 3-1/8" bore and 3-1/4" bore for any of those engines. Block part number 366204 R1 was used in 130 and you can only get 3-1/8" bore or 123. Block part number 367825 R1 was used in 140 and again only 3-1/8" bore but the water pump becomes an issue with that one.
Another thing to remember with all of this, even though they may be the same bore the sleeves will not interchange from one block to another except between 130 and 140.
 

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