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Ford 7700 starting issue

N

newhollandnut

Member
My ford 7700 has won’t start. It will crank about half a turn on the fan. The battery reads and load test good but when I engage the starter it drops down below 8 volts then right back to testing good and reading 12.8 volts. My question is where do I start? Seems like the started would be ok since it is engaging the battery seems fine unless the starter is engaged. Could the solenoid be causing this? It also acts the same with my charger/jump starter hooked up it still drops to 8.5 or less volts. Where is my lost voltage going. Thanks ahead for any help. Electrical is by far my weakest link
 
How many times have I had battery to show 12 volts on gage but not up to task?? Let me take off my boots and socks.. Just for grins try lightly tapping starter to see if gremlin is in there. Can you swap a battery temporarily to see if situation changes?
 
David g. That is what I’m thinking planning on get a new battery tomorrow just trying to figure out if I’m missing something else. Thanks for the reply!
 
I use a clamp type DC amp meter to help with an issue like this, you could have a starter issue or a cylinder full of liquid, both of which would cause a low volt high amperage indication. It's highly unlikely the solenoid is the cause here. I know it's not easy to turn the engine by hand but that would be my next try, if you can turn the engine (in the direction it runs) by hand or wrench for two full turns then the starter would be suspect. Note we recently had a tractor in the shop that the starter would not turn the engine, you could turn the engine backward but not forward, the alternator was thoroughly locked up.
 
A quick and easy battery test is if you have lights turn them on and see how badly they dim when you activate the starter. The lights will go real dim if the battery is very bad.
Gene Davis
 
Since the battery load tests good, lets assume it is good for the moment.

Try the starter a few more times and make some observations.

Do the cables feel hot at any connection? Feel the cable ends, the ground connection at the engine block, the connection at the solenoid, and the connection going into the starter. If any are hot, or showing signs of heat discoloration, check the connection.

Do the cables jump and get warm all the way to the starter, and does the starter case get warm? If yes, then power is getting to the starter.

Look the controls over carefully, is there a hydraulic lever stuck in any position besides neutral? Are all the engine accessories turning, water pump, alternator, etc? Can you manually turn the engine through with reasonable force? Did anything unusual happen last time it ran, overheating, smoke, loss of power, oil level low or high?

If everything checks out, jumping or swapping the battery doesn't help, good chance it's a starter problem. Could just be a bad bushing.
 
If it has 2 batteries one could be bad and one good. I'd do like Steve says clean all connections,check for hot or warm connections. If all is good then I would try a different battery. I would also go to the Group 31's with the stud for the connection. They are less problems with corrosion at the battery connections. We havw been doing this for 20 years with cleaning when the battery gets changed.
 
Went through something similar with this old Oliver TLB I have. All of the individual components (battery, solenoid, starter) tested good. I put all new custom made 0 gauge battery cables on it - no change. After fussing with on and off for 2 weeks, I finally found that the power stud on the starter was touching a fuel line creating a dead short whenever the key was in the start position.
 
Ford 7700 has a single big 4DLT, and I don't think the battery carrier has the height to switch without some re fabrication.
I also switch what ever I can to Group 31 stud types.
 
Thanks for the replies. Going to try to do some of the suggested testing but with planting and a day job not sure when I will get back to it. Will try to remember to post my results
 
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