Adding a temperature gauge with numbers

I have a Mahindra 4510 with a Daedong 2.2 diesel and it has a temperature gauge with the working safe in white and then a section that is red for overheating. I am fine leaving that gauge there, but I would like to add a temperature gauge with actual numbers. I measured the temp sender that is in there. It reads .8k ohm when cold and 82 ohm when hot idle. So can I add another gauge using the same sender? Thoughts?

If you can find a gauge to match up with it.... YES

You can goggle "temperature gauge ohm specs" and read till ell freezes over...

I would learn what is normal and run with it... If you learn the normal I figure you will learn when its talking to ya its not normal...

BTW I don't like those gauges either sometimes you can find a location to add another gauge...

On several engines over the years I have put a fitting in the upper radiator hose for a temp gauge. I like the mechanical ones that don't depend on sending units and electricity. I know in the upper hose it only works of the thermostat is open but you have the other gauge to know when things are "different", then can check the one in the hose. All you need is a tube or pipe that fits the hose and a fitting with a pipe or other thread welded into it. As long as the hose in long enough to allow you to insert 3-4" of the adapter.

I'm thinking the extra gauge on the same sender would create resistance and neither would read correctly. I would try a second sender unit if it was me. Mark.

Ok, so I sorted out the overheating issue with my Mahindra 4510. I still want to install a temperature gauge with digits so I know what the temp actually is. BUT, here is what I did to solve the issue. First, the battery is located right in front of the radiator. That probably blocks 15-20% of the radiator, so I relocated it outside of the engine bay under the cab in a tucked away spot, close to the starter. I flushed the engine and radiator with clean water, ran until it got hot and drained again. I also replaced a REALLY horrible fuel filter set up. The PO had it plumbed with a 2" inline clear filter like you would see on a decent sized riding mower. It was LOADED with crap. Took that off, put on a Prince filter base and a Napa fuel filter. I figured that if it was running lean, heat would play a role there too. I pulled the condenser off of the radiator and removed the radiator itself. Put it out on the driveway and hit it with industrial degreaser. Let it sit for 5 mins, then power washed it with a black power washer tip. That style tip is mostly water with some pressure in a nice fan shape. Got it good and soaked and then switched to a green tip which is much higher pressure with less water. There was a cigarette like tobacco stuff coming out of the radiator for a solid 20 mins. I would turn it over, wash that side. Soap, sit and power wash until there was no more tobacco looking stuff coming out. Hit it with an air compressor and look at it with the sun behind it. Still not clean. Repeat. Took 1 hour of power washing to get it like new. Turns out, it is a brass radiator, no worries about having the fins bend when you wash with a green or black tip. I would not use a red tip or a spiral tip, just in case. Put the radiator back in, installed a new 12" electric fan directly to the radiator, spaced the the condenser off of the radiator with a 4 pieces of 3/4 pipe, wired the fan. Installed a set of new belts, tightened them real good, put Prestolite diesel coolant in it and distilled water. Tractor fires up no problem, mows in 3rd gear with a 90" finishing mower, doesn't cross the halfway point on the temp gauge now. I would bet it is 30-40 degrees cooler than before. 90% of my issue was probably the radiator being plugged up for so long. WASH YOUR RADIATORS PEOPLE!!!!! Once a year, hit it with a hose and an air compressor and this wouldn't have happened. If you are going to mow where there is a lot of chaff, vacuum the engine bay and the radiator once a week. Not hard.