Cracking concrete

550Doug

Member
Location
Southern Ontario
I have a concrete front porch (12 x 12) that has a cold cellar below it and over the years has developed small cracks and allows water into the cold cellar. The freeze-thaw cycle makes this worse and especially in years with a wet Fall. From this I suspect the foundation is shifting slightly when the water table is high. I have tried vee-ing out the cracks and patching but that doesn't last. Other than covering the whole surface with a waterproof rubber mat or rubberized outdoor carpet, are there any other solutions that will expand if a new crack develops?
 
when sealing and filling cracks in concrete you need a very low modulus of elasticity patching compound. There are very flexible type waterproofing coatings also
 
There are some very good silicone products available for cement. That being said, if the concrete is deteriorating
on the edges as it moves, nothing will provide a long term solution except stopping the movement and replacing the
slab.
 
When building homes we have had several new basement walls leak, the company that poured the walls for us sent a person out that injected an
epoxy in the cracks that would stop the leaks. Guaranteed ? I was impressed that the injection pushed the epoxy through 12? walls
 

Sikaflex polyurethane "chauking".

Research it, I believe it is the concrete slab joint sealent used around the areas of new construction of gas station pump islands.
It must be some darn good stuff and seal very well to pass the epa requirements of keep fuel from getting thru to the soil.
 
That stuff is the best.
I put in a new shower floor about ten years ago and if has held up very well.
Lowes had it back then.
 
(quoted from post at 10:34:17 05/21/20) Other than covering the whole surface with a waterproof rubber mat or rubberized outdoor carpet, are there any other solutions that will expand if a new crack develops?

If you go this route, I would look into using rubber membrane commercial roofing. Then decking on top if your door threshold height will allow.

Not sure if they make the membrane wide enough to cover in one piece. But the stuff is made to be "welded" with a torch along the overlapping edges for commercial, nearly flat roofs.
 
The Sikaflex caulk will absolutely stop the leak. the surface must be dry when applied, I would drive a foam backer strip
down it the crack about 3/4" to keep the material solid and adhearing to both surfaces. It will take a week or so for it to
come off your skin, and it won't come off clothing. Caulk the slab to house joint as well. I keep some tubes in stock in 3
colors. Jim
 
And if you clean up with a rag and xylene don?t put the rag in your pocket. Don?t ask how I know.
 
If I do go for a membrane, possibly EPDM, what sort of material can I place on top of it? I'd like something with the look of tiling or interlocking brick. Would I also need some base material on top of the membrane, like plywood?
 
(quoted from post at 20:11:07 05/21/20) If I do go for a membrane, possibly EPDM, what sort of material can I place on top of it? I'd like something with the look of tiling or interlocking brick. Would I also need some base material on top of the membrane, like plywood?

Certainly get with a commercial roofing outfit for guidence.

I do know they place polystyrene sheets under the membrane.
And precast lightweight "patio blocks" kinda like a sidewalk on top where foot traffic will happen to service roof mounted hvac units etc.
 
550Doug....... Although I have never used it yet...... I wonder if that garage floor sealer .... The stuff from HD or L's or your local hardware store that's
colored and slightly adbrasive would work. The thing I don't know is if it's water proof. Wingnut.
 
We had cracks in solid basement walls that started leaking after an earthquake. We used Damtite and they never leaked again.
 
I have had very good results with <a href="https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sikaflex-29-oz-Self-Leveling-Sealant-Gray-7116080/300934522">Sikaflex crack filler</a>. If the cracks are very large you'll need to first stuff foam backer rod into them so the sealant doesn't leak through the cracks. You'll probably need to reseal the cracks in a couple of years if there's much movement, but it won't take much sealant the second time.
 

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