Getting a New Hoalland TC24D Started

Mouse at the wiring under the dash. My neighbors tractor. So we got it to spin with a jumper at the starter. Then I figured it needed fuel, has a solenoid down at the pump (my tractors have manual pumps), and the wire to it showed no voltage with key on. So I jumpered there and pumped a bunch of fuel in. Now I'm thinking that is a metered solenoid, part of electronic injection I know nothing about.

So how do we test/bypass the seemingly dead fuel delivery? The dash light do still come on, and the glow plug light.

You pumped fuel in, do you mean in the tank, or primed the system with the lift pump?

If it was out of fuel, and you did not bleed the air out, that needs to be done. Some have bleeder screws, some you have to crack the line loose. There should be a manual lever on the lift pump, some way to pump fuel through the filters up to the injection pump. That verifies there is fuel at the pump,and also purges air. Prime until there is pure fuel and no bubbles.

Then crack all the injector lines loose at the injectors and crank the engine until fuel comes through the lines. Tighten the lines, it should start.

At least that's my generic fix, not sure if it's something "new and improved".

But if there are chewed wires, that needs to be addressed before something really bad happens!

(quoted from post at 15:55:17 05/01/20) You pumped fuel in, do you mean in the tank, or primed the system with the lift pump?

If it was out of fuel, and you did not bleed the air out, that needs to be done. Some have bleeder screws, some you have to crack the line loose. There should be a manual lever on the lift pump, some way to pump fuel through the filters up to the injection pump. That verifies there is fuel at the pump,and also purges air. Prime until there is pure fuel and no bubbles.

Then crack all the injector lines loose at the injectors and crank the engine until fuel comes through the lines. Tighten the lines, it should start.

At least that's my generic fix, not sure if it's something "new and improved".

But if there are chewed wires, that needs to be addressed before something really bad happens!

Click to expand...

Hey thanks Steve. Didn't run out of fuel. He called me a week ago, tractor had been running, now won't even turn over. I went over there, jumpered the starter solenoid, turns over great. Still no start. So we opened up the dash and a mouse jumped out. Some wiring chewed. I told him to get a new harness, he says he can't find one and just wants to get it going so he can do spring cleanup.

I asked if it had a manual injector pump kill knob (like my old stuff), he says no you turn off the key. So I go looking for and find, a wire going to the injector pump. It's buried in there but I assume it's a kill solenoid. I test the wire with the key on, nothing. So I jumper the terminal to the battery, hear a click, figure I'm in business. I had him turn it over at the starter while I held the jumper to the terminal. A bunch of smoke and fuel came out the exhaust but not a pop.

What else could stop it from running?

I've been poking around the internet, I believe in fact that is a fuel shutoff solenoid.

The engine is a 3 cylinder Shibaura, apparently.



Thanks again.

Transmission range selector must be in neutral, PTO
disengaged, clutch in, and someone in the seat.

(quoted from post at 20:58:14 05/01/20) Transmission range selector must be in neutral, PTO
disengaged, clutch in, and someone in the seat.

Click to expand...

Thanks. Does that just prevent the starter from operating or does it prevent it from starting by some other way?

How did it start before all this happened ? If it was hard starting before, it may have a problem with the glow plugs. That's the next thing I would check.

Thanks Jo. Don't really know how well it started before but I agree about the glow plugs. I think there are 3 and if I can find a common wire I can jumper to the battery?

Going back by his house today.

I think all those safety switches on the shifter etc. all just keep the starter from working, and the engine should run if jumpering at the starter.

I would not jump from the battery to the glow plugs for fear of burning them out if left on to long. You said the glow plug light on the dash comes on, does it stay on continuously or go out after a short period of time ? That indicates to me that their is a relay in the system to prevent burning out the glow plugs. If the light cycles off and on take a test light and check the wire at each glow plug for power. If their is power present at each you can test each one by unhooking the connection and with a test light attached to the battery touch the tip of the glow plug. It should light the test light, if the test light doesn't come on the plug is bad. If you have no power at any of the glow plugs , trace the wire back to the key switch to find the broken wire and fix it.
One important thing often over looked is the battery, just because their is a higher reading than 12 volts, it may still not produce enough amperage to do the job of heating the glow plugs and have enough to start the engine.

(quoted from post at 08:35:51 05/02/20) Thanks Jo. Don't really know how well it started before but I agree about the glow plugs. I think there are 3 and if I can find a common wire I can jumper to the battery?

Going back by his house today.

I think all those safety switches on the shifter etc. all just keep the starter from working, and the engine should run if jumpering at the starter.

Click to expand...

smoke while cranking means injector pump is now working... but these tractors expect a glow plug cycle before cranking and while cranking. You on the right track... or tacktor.. pun... I would expect a 15 second glow plug cycle to fire it off... caution, , the glow plugs draw a lot of current, so it takes a BIG jumper wire or the jumper will melt down and burn your fingers... Its possible the glow circuit still works so you might try it....

btw,,, get rid of the rat.

Didn't catch the last two posts before I left. I jumpered the glow plugs quickly and it fired right up. He is looking for his manual and wiring diagram to try and isolate but failing that we'll just run new wires.

Thanks a bunch for the help guys!