gas row crop ih 656 ...pros an cons

i know where one is for sale...was wondering if the 263 was able to handle the new gas... ive heard yall talk about 706 an 806's not doing good with the new gas.....what do yall think of the 656........thanks dewy.....

The farm to the east of me has one and the farm to the west of me has one his dad bought new. Both hate how they run on todays gas. The one gets good maintenance and is used to run a tmr mixer in the summer. He complains about how it runs all the time. Unless you need a winter tractor look for a diesel. Tom

What would be your planned use for the tractor?

Valve problems; need special high ashe oil!

mine worked quite well on the cheapest pump gas.

I have 3 656 hydros and 1 656 gear drive. all gas engines. the 2 high utilities needed the gas tank cleaned once each; otherwise, I have had no problems using the stuff they sell today. at least one hydro gets used every day to load silage and feed cows, and the gear drive lives on the NH feed grinder. I wouldn't have a 656 diesel- I hate glow plug engines.

I don't put any faith in those stories.

There is nothing wrong performance wise running E10 in any gas engine.

The problems are with storage, and degrading rubber components.

When I bought my 930 gasser it ran rough on regular gas. A friend wanted me to do some work for him and he would supply the gas. Well his gas had 10% gasohol, since it was all he had I dumped in about 30 gals of his and the tractor ran much better. Maybe the gas maybe not but it runs on 10% now with no issues.

You should have no issues with it on today's fuel. Keep the ignition system in good order, the fuel system clean, and use [i:50ae8c4bc2]low ash[/i:50ae8c4bc2] oil in it. My ideal tractor is a 656 gas narrow front!

Mac

A big con is that it is WAY more complicated to work on than anything you have now, and there are way fewer people out there that can walk you though fixing a 656 than an old letter series or 200.

Basic same engine made in the same time frame when reg grade gas at a gas station was 95 octane and the bargin gas was 93 octane . A stock gas tractor from 63 up to the last built in 75 ran on the 93 well a little better on the 95 . Now lets fast forward here to today and the what they call gas . It BURNS way HOTTER and faster , the replacement engine parts are NOT the same , the pistons now are a CAST piston not a FORGED as Forged will take more heat due to the close grain wher as the cast does not conduct the heat to the skirts and into the walls . Then NON of these engines are what you can call true stock as each and everyone of them have had the heads off god only knows how many times and been mill/ ground down for warpage and valve jobs so with each grinding the compression ratio goes UP and when you hick up the compression ratio you need MORE OCTANE to cut precombustion . WHILE we could get REAL 93 octane we as in ALL my close friends got along just fine with the gas tractors , we did everything with them that they were meant to do from plowing all day and into the night disking planting haying chopping corn picking corn cleaning the barn moving snow . Yea 93 cost more and it ran us around 150 200 bucks more a year for the 93 over the 87 BIG deal . BUT they changed the gas once again and we lost two 706's in two days from the gas that came from to different sources . one of my other friends that has a 460 gasser and is having the same problems with it when it comes under load it starts to seeze up . So this is what we have went thru . You get the oil companys to make us some real old fashioned 93+ octane gas no lets make that 95 octane and i don't care about the lead with NO AL-KI-HOL and then ya can go play with the old gassers . IMHOP the tractors under the 90 Hp. for the part time/ Hobby farmer were great , they started in all weather with a good tune up and a good battery thy as in the tractors like the 544/656/706/ 756/ were a super chore tractor / would do great pulling planters and OLD drills , great on the baler and mowers did well on the pickers can't tell you how many loads of manure they put on the fields ground unseen numbers of feed thru and 855 mill , the only thing where our 706's lacked was the onset of the new silage wagons , asking a 706 to drag 35-40000lbs was asking a bit much there they lacked in two department (1) Horse power and (2) weight .One weighed in at around 96-9700 lbs and the other with loaded tires and a few extra weights went around 12500 . NOT enough dog for the tail. Not on our ground . NOW i can tell you there will be the EXPERTS that will tell you i don't know what i am talking about i only worked on I H tractors since 1983 FULL time as my living and been building engines since back in late 63 . BUT you do as you want.

Low ash oil has .5% ash maximum. it has been processed to limit contaminates and stays clean in engines (particularly the back side of exhaust valves. most oils For gasoline engines have 1% or more ash. The issue is that the 6 cylinder IH engines were made with no valve seals. The high ash oils coked up the valves and caused many engines to go low on power and or burn valves from coking. Google Valve coking on gasoline engines. It can get to the point where the exhaust valves restrict the flow of intake fuel/air. If the engine has had Perfect Circle Style positive valve seals installed, I would use any modern detergent oil in it. 15-40 is a good choice. Jim

bush hogging......dewy

thanks for the replies yall................dewy