1910 ignition won't turn over

stoupin

New User
when I was working on my tractor lights I had an ARC causing the 15amp fuse to burn out. Replaced the fuse. Now when I turn the ignition , nothing happens.. I used a screwdriver on the solenoid and the tractor turns over fine but will not start. Ignition switch will heat the glow plugs and turn the lights on but will not turn the tractor over.. Thoughts???
 
stoupin welcome to YT! Unfortunately we are not standing there looking at the tractor so we don?t know what brand it is. I know there is such a thing as a Ford 1910, is this what you have? Do you have a automotive test light. If there is no obvious burnt off wire the the test light will be very helpful in diagnosis of your problem. Most all parts stores carry them.
 
To add a question do you pull a lever or cable to stop the tractor? It must have a wire going to the in pump to allow fuel to the injectors. If so you need to find why that wire has no power. If the answer to my question is yes you have created quite the conundrum.
 
(quoted from post at 11:48:18 04/10/20) To add a question do you pull a lever or cable to stop the tractor? It must have a wire going to the in pump to allow fuel to the injectors. If so you need to find why that wire has no power. If the answer to my question is yes you have created quite the conundrum.
 
It is a Ford 1910. To stop my tractor, hit the brake, stop and turn the key off. I'm not sure what you are referring to when you ask "do you have a cable or level to stop the tractor"
 
Thanks for the brand clarification. What I replied about the electrical wire to the injection pump does apply to
your tractor. To clarify about my question, some diesel engines are stopped by a rod or cable physically moving a lever
on the injection pump to cut the flow of fuel to the injectors. More applicable to pre 1990 equipment. If that was the case on your tractor then some how the arc would have had to affect that system, which now we know does not apply to your tractor.
 
So JoeM are you familiar with the Ford 1910, is what you are saying true of that model? You seem to be disagreeing with the owner who claims you only have to turn off the key to stop it. Or are you just generalizing an answer to my question to confuse the problem? It appears I may have complicated the topic by asking my question out of sequence.
 
(quoted from post at 13:07:39 04/10/20) Thanks for the brand clarification. What I replied about the electrical wire to the injection pump does apply to
your tractor. To clarify about my question, some diesel engines are stopped by a rod or cable physically moving a lever
on the injection pump to cut the flow of fuel to the injectors. More applicable to pre 1990 equipment. If that was the case on your tractor then some how the arc would have had to affect that system, which now we know does not apply to your tractor.
 
To add to my last reply. I don't beleive this has anything to do with fuel because when I turn the key , I get nothing.. completly dead
 
You'll need a test light or volt meter.

Have an assistant hold the switch in the start position while you check for voltage to the solenoid energizing terminal. Typically there is a neutral switch between the ignition switch and the solenoid.

Just be careful, it could decide to start any time during the test.
 
(quoted from post at 14:09:19 04/10/20) You'll need a test light or volt meter.

Have an assistant hold the switch in the start position while you check for voltage to the solenoid energizing terminal. Typically there is a neutral switch between the ignition switch and the solenoid.

Just be careful, it could decide to start any time during the test.
 
So, when you shorted out he solenoid you must not have had the throttle up to get fuel to the injectors. If you
would have it should have ran. I?m sorry if I ignored the fact that your starter would not engage by the switch.
That is partly why I asked about the fuel control. Since you said it did not start I surmised the fuel control is by
electric current so adding a two part issue to your electric problem, but now with more info that is not the case.
Steve is taking you down a good path let?s see where it leads.
 

Stoupin, my thought is that the arc killed the power to the circuit that activates the starter solenoid. The starter solenoid is almost always on top of the starter. hold the probe of your test light on the small wire that goes to the solenoid and twist the key to start. If the iight does not light trace it back and test at each junction that it goes to.
 

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