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Haybine is alive

I ran a NH 469 for about 20 years. Here are some suggestions: buy a manual. Read it completely and make adjustments as recommended. When you park the machine, put some 4x4 blocks under the skid shoes to keep things up off the ground. Grease all Fittings and the u-joints very well and every few acres. Purchase and stock extra parts like a guard, a box of knife sections, rivets, couple u-joints, maybe the drive chain, the knife assembly bolt, knife assembly bushings. These things break out in the field and can be replaced in about 1/2 hour and keep mowing. Take a look at the far side sheet metal access panel. Make sure both hold down clips are in place and tight. Tall hay will grab that thing right off. Remove and sharpen the knives. Do NOT cut the heck out of your fingers. I always kept my guards pointy with a grinder. When the knife is out, clean the gunk out of each guard channel the knife back rides in. Then, grease everything again and shoot oil on the reel cam track. Every spring I would spend a good couple hours going over everything and replacing broken reel tines. Eventually I replaced virtually every moving part including the rolls. Now I run a discbine and don?t replace anything. Have fun.
 
1469 here still earning its keep. No idea how to guess how many thousand of tons on grass and oat hay have run thru it. Great machine.
cvphoto498.jpg
 
Nice. If you are using that same draw pin while cutting hay in a heavy crop, the draw pin will catch hay and drag it under the tongue. I cut a shot piece on pipe, and slide it onto the draw pin before I put the pin into the haybine tongue. Makes the pin just long enough to go through the tongue, but without hanging down 2-4 inches below to catch cut crop.
 


A friend had the seven foot equivalent of yours. I was impressed with the independent suspension at the two ends.
 
That is sound advice. I use a bolt for a pin on the haybine with the nut on top so there?s nothing to hang down and catch the hay . I also put a couple three big washers on top of the tractor drawbar to hold the haybine hitch up closer to the tractor drawbar on the bottom side. This is only really necessary if you put the hay in a tighter windrow as opposed to nearly full width. If the 960 Ford is the mowing tractor the front wheels may mash down the hay so catching hay might be less of an issue. I also remove the jack once I get right at haying as I have had the jack handle drop down and drag hay. Just think - Grandpa Love - if all of us that have been making hay for a while keep telling you all the things we learned the hard way- you?re off to a good start. You may never know the joy of hay wound around the pto shaft that goes from hardly any thing to solid all the way to the tractor in no time. I also think you have a good idea to try out the equipment before you actually get started- especially if you are going to be a ways from home on the fields you have lined up. It always seems like equipment issues, tire problem etc always wait to happen till you are farther from home.
 
Not understanding the repeated need to "let the pressure off" in your video.

Does the Ford not have a 2-way hydraulic remote? If only one way, the "down" side needs to be VENTED to open air, or you will be "let(ting) the pressure off" at the end of each row.
 
Does your 488 have passenger tires on it? Just a little hard to tell in the video, but I would upgrade if it does not have implement or lite trucks or C range tires on it. do that right after you have studied the owners manual. Also once you get to mowing hay your narrow front end will roll right down the middle of the windrow you just cut. Maybe you have a tedder. What kind of shape is your main drive belt in? If that machine has been sitting out in the Alabama sun for years, it would be wise to replace it before hay season comes and it breaks right in the middle of a hayfield. Lastly, your narrow front ford will allow you to make very sharp turns. Do not do that if possible , puts stress on the driveline and yokes.
 
Machine was in a Mississippi barn for years. I wondered about the narrow front. I guess it will have to do. Has truck tires on it. Buddy who works at a scrap yard says they got a round baler in with near new tires. Gonna go look today. Will sell for scrap tin price.
 
Not sure what happened. We raised it
first time and it would not go down. Had
to release pressure by pushing the ball
in hose in. After that the valves on
tractor worked fine. Possible to raise it
too far and get it stuck?
 
No more problem mowing with that than a bar mower with a narrow front tractor Mine was a Case and not New Holland but pulled it with no problems with a 1941 Farmall H narrow front. Never had problems with hitch pin draging hay on anything. You should be able to lift header with one finger, more lift needed and you are draging ground too hard and wearing the thing out.
 
I will get pic of my " hay field" in a bit. It's part of my yard. But good practice. I sure do appreciate all the help and advice.
 
Nice set up. The rolls look real good. That's usually the problem with used machines. I pulled a JD 1207 for ten years with a late 2000, non-live PTO and six speed. It did OK but my fields are crowned and I had a hard time making turns on the slopes. The front end would just slide out so I ended up making a 3/4 loop at the corners. I run it behind an Oliver 1550 now, a lot easier.
 
(quoted from post at 06:05:10 04/08/20) Not sure what happened. We raised it
first time and it would not go down. Had
to release pressure by pushing the ball
in hose in. After that the valves on
tractor worked fine. Possible to raise it
too far and get it stuck?
Click to expand...

Not unless something's broken.

Could be a coupler problem. You've got power-up, power-down right?

I remember being a little kid crawling under the haybine to set the block when Dad would unhook the haybine. Said putting the head up on the block kept the springs from stretching.
 
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