AC Delco Ramey Starter

Just installed a rebuilt AC Delco Ramey Starter on my 1961 Oliver 550 that I am restoring. When I go to turn over the engine using the key switch the engine rolls over and continues to do so until I pull the battery cable off. It even continues to roll over with the key removed so I know there isn't any voltage to the solenoid. There are two terminals on the solenoid, so far I have only tried the one. Anyone ever see this happen before? Also my tractor calls for a positive ground.

Farmer Broome
 
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Sounds like the solenoid is sticking. Take it off the tractor, and take it apart. There is a copper disc in there, and the lever is probably stuck to it. Clean things up, polish the disc, and rotate it a bit (if possible) so the lever engages it at a new spot.
 
Most common cause;

Weak or low battery
Poor connections
Corrosion

When your available volts go down the amps it draws goes up.
Contacts in solenoid weld themselves together causing it to continue spinning after you release switch/key.

Other possibilities;

-Weak or missing drive return spring.

-Binding linkage to drive.

-Broken or missing drive stop collar.

-Drive gear to flywheel tooth clearance insufficient.
 
And DON'T change the solenoid wire to the other terminal- it was working as presently wired- changing to the other terminal won't make it work better, and may let the smoke out.
 
Bad key switch or solenoid. Sense its in the open try disconnecting the wire from the key switch and do a little testing.
 
Not real common but it happens.

When the solenoid pulls the plunger in, it pushes the button inside the solenoid, closing the contacts to power the motor.

There is a spiral on the motor shaft that helps push the drive into the flywheel. That spiral in turn pushes back on the plunger. If the geometry is off, the plunger pushes too far back and the force of the motor on the spiral splines holds the plunger too deep into the solenoid, holding the button in, causing the motor to continue to run even with the signal removed.

It is caused by the wrong plunger, the fork bent or sometimes in backward, wrong drive gear, the thrust washer at the end of the drive missing, or the housing worn away letting the drive move too far forward.

I would take it back to the rebuilder. They will have heard of this before, should know what to do.
 
(reply to post at 18:28:54 04/07/20)
Thanks for the advice. I ended up taking the rebuilt starter back to the rebuild shop. The owner took one look at it and said he had problems in the past with new solenoids not working under load so he popped a new one on. I brought it home and installed it. It worked like a charm. It certainly had me guessing as to what was wrong with it.


Farmer Broome
 
(quoted from post at 09:19:29 04/07/20) the engine rolls over and continues to do so until I pull the battery cable off.

Farmer Broome

I such situations . Everyone should remember to unbolt the Ground/chassis connection . Instead of lifting a cable off a battery terminal.
You are risking a battery explosion from the hydrogen gas produced by extended heavy cranking being ignited by the electrical arc.
 
The top of the solenoid should have 4 terminals, 2 big ones and 2 small ones.

* The small one with "S" is where you put power to the starter to activate hte solenoid by turning your key.
* The small one with an "R" is for something like a light indicating that there's power to the starter, and is optional.
* The big terminal with a bolt goes to the starter, and gets it's power.
* The other big terminal should have a copper bolt out directly into the starter.

When you apply power to the "S" terminal, it activates an electromagnet that pulls a spring loaded disc that connects the 2 big terminals giving power to the starter motor. At the same time it pushes the gear out of the starter to engage the flywheel. That disc also supplies power to the small "R" terminal.

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"* The small one with an "R" is for something like a light indicating that there's power to the starter, and is optional. "

Actually, the purpose of the "R" terminal is to bypass the primary ignition resistor during cranking on many older vehicles and gasoline-powered tractors to make up for lower battery voltage during cranking to help maintain a HOT spark.

It's use isn't "optional" if the machine was built with such a circuit.

If you want it to start well, that is!
 

Good to know! Someone said that to me years back and never heard anything otherwise, and never encountered such a thing. You learn something new every day.
 

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