Never took a terramite rear end apart.

I have had numerous colonoscopies, but never had to work on a rear end before.

From the looks of things I may need a dentist to repair some teeth.
Terramite has no parts. They think the rear end is made by Dana.


Not really sure.
Any help is appreciated. How to get it apart? How to determine make? Where to find parts?
George

Made by DANA, and tag says "44".

MITE just be a "DANA 44".

GOOGLE "DANA 44" and see if it matches up.

Even if that's what it is, splines in "side gears" MAY no be the same as have been used in vehicles.

Looks like some tooth decay exists. Probably going to find a good dentist (or is that a good welder/machinist) to solve the problem.

I found online I can buy the differential assembly made by Dana. Only $350.

So how do I get it apart? Do I need to pull axles?
Or just remove the two caps on each end?
thanks. geo.

If just the spider gears and side gears need to be replaced, remove the axles and the "cross pin" through the spider gears, and the spider gears and side gears can be "R+R'd" without taking anything else apart.

If you have to replace the "carrier", it gets a LOT more complicated to set up the gears and the preload on the carrier bearings.

But probably you only need to replace the differential gears?

If so, about $50 and up, if you are lucky and they have the same splines as vehicles use.

<img src = "https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/images/M4450770.jpg">

You all-ways told me those things were trouble free... Seeing what loads you have put on that little thing I don,t doubt the problems. Let me see about what information I have on rear end parts.

The ones on cars I've worked on you remove the axle shafts. Remove the carrier side caps and you will notice that the back side has threads. When you reassemble just snug the side caps and then I made a tool from angle iron that slides in to the axle tube to adjust the side adjusters then torque the side caps after final adjustments. The side adjusters are used to set the backlash. If that is as clear as mud you will get a better understanding when you start the disassemble process. It's not rocket science but since your pretty mechanical inclined it will all make sense once it's apart.

I can't help on getting it apart (other than to say that most disassembles require you to remove the axles first), but once you get that gear out, take it on a tour of local machine shops as far as building up the teeth with weld then shaping them.

I loaned my haying outfit to my elderly neighbor one time, to bale up little pieces for friends around the neighborhood. He asked me how much I wanted for the use of the equipment, and I just told him "make whatever deal you want, and give me whatever you think is fair." It was kind of fun- I'd come home from work, and find some more hay in the barn, or a $20 bill under a rock on the porch.

Came home one evening and my baler looked like a yard sale (in his yard). Turns out a tooth had broken on the big gear (bull gear?) that runs the plunger. He had sought the advice of a retired machinist friend of his, and they had removed the gear and built up a new tooth, then shaped it. Honestly, if it hadn't been for the blue color from the heat, I would not have been able to tell which tooth it was. They also cut a new keyway in the shaft so it would be a different tooth on the gear being subjected to the stress when the plunger hit the bale. The two guys were as happy as could be- a chance for a couple of codgers to use their skills and do something productive for a change.

(quoted from post at 12:22:48 04/03/20) The ones on cars I've worked on you remove the axle shafts. Remove the carrier side caps and you will notice that the back side has threads. When you reassemble just snug the side caps and then I made a tool from angle iron that slides in to the axle tube to adjust the side adjusters then torque the side caps after final adjustments. The side adjusters are used to set the backlash. If that is as clear as mud you will get a better understanding when you start the disassemble process. It's not rocket science but since your pretty mechanical inclined it will all make sense once it's apart.

Click to expand...

There's NO "threaded side adjusters" in a "DANA 44", from the factory they use a single shim of the correct thickness (select) on each side. When repairing, if a change is needed you have to mix and match various thinner washers.

But should be NOT be an issue for George, as (hopefully) he doesn't need to go that for inside his axle.

If it is the Dana check with Summit Racing in Akron Ohio for a kit. Or if just the diff part of it maybe look at a Detroit locker for in it. That way you can have posi ! Not sure but think Jeeps may of used that dana 44 ?
I would of thought those might of had a separate hyd. drive motor for each wheel. Guess not.
Uncle had a JD300 TLB that tore up the diff. in it. Figured out it was from having it in park and digging. All the rocking back and forth he thought did in the diff. Don't know if yours has a neutral or a park gear ? if not maybe they want you to use the backhoe with the rear wheels lifted up off the ground like I see all the Case guys do.

You don't know how many times I told myself today I wished I had dealer support.

I really think I bought this problem. Today it was talking too much so I decided to take it apart. That was fun. I'm winning, got the axle out. Now I need to convince the carrier come out.

Pic above in my HELP post.
George

Scouts used 44s too.

WOW! Those parts look just like the parts in a Ford 8.8" axle. I've had a couple TOO many of those. That "Special" 1/4" capscrew that holds the cross shaft into the diff case normally breaks right where it goes from 1/4" threads to about 3/16" straight round. And it goes into a blind hole, if it breaks it can be interesting.

Had a couple Dana 44's on the front of Ford F-150 4x4's, never really had any problems with them.

Don't you think that means 44T in ring gear, 9T in pinion. The other number is probably
Apr 1989.

IMHO, take it to a trusted independent auto shop, source the parts, let them do the work.

The 4 89 is the ratio.

44-9 = 44-ring gear teeth, 9 pinion gear teeth for a 4.89 ratio. That is a Dana 44, 30 axle splines. The other tag, if legible is probably the BOM #, or build of materials numbers and can decipher the diff specs. D44 was and still is a popular diff/axle for light trucks, Jeeps, some cars and construction equipment. You can find parts at any auto parts store, offroad shop or many online stores.

If you need a vehicle application, pick a 60's to mid 90's dodge or ford half ton front diff. There are many others but these were probably the most popular with longest span of use. D44 spider gear kit can be had for around $125 or less, kit would include 2-axle/side gears &amp; washers, 2-spider gears &amp; washers, cross shaft pin and pin retainer bolt.

Pretty sure my '74 Dodge W100 has a Dana 44 in front and an 8 3/4 Mopar in the rear.

Larry you can come and get your terramite now.