(800) 853-2651
SHOP NOW

Cummins 53 block repair

S

SVcummins

Well-known Member
All the parts are here for operation Cummins 53 block repair
cvphoto9074.jpg


cvphoto9075.jpg


cvphoto9076.jpg


cvphoto9077.jpg


cvphoto9078.jpg
 
Center punch W hammer, tap drill, drill motor, tap/handle, metal cutoff saw blade for die grinder, air 3 inch disk sander W/~40grit abrasive, and paint. Jim
 
I really hope the holes will drill nicely need to figure out the spacing and how to keep them evenly spaced . I need to get a decent set of punches again .
 
The plugs should be 1/4 diameter overlapped. use a small washer stuck on the end of the center punch at the very end, where the sharp point turns into the tapered area above that. grind the outside of the washer so it rests against the prior plug (that is not cut off and sanded flat yet. make the punch mark right on the crack. Next saw off the previous plug, and drill the next hole. The sealent used on the plug threads should be fast setting (5 minutes with heat on it). Don't over tighten the plugs, or it will stress the block, just snug. Staking the plug with the center punch in 4 places around it will also reduce its tendency to spin when drilling into the side of it. I would also recommend a can of brake clean and air to dry the brake clean, to assure there is no residue in the threads when putting in the sealant plugs. Jim
 
That?s just the idea I needed . I?m thinking of dipping each plug in this putty to act as a sealer and also help strengthen the crack a bit . I had thought of doing all one row of plugs then let them dry and drill between each plug the next day
 
I can't speak from experience as I've never tried this before, but if I were, I would go by the proven method and not try to rewrite it.

Trying to tap an interrupted hole is going to be very touchy. Having 2 interrupted cuts (double overlapping plugs) might prove to be even more difficult.

Just my observation...
 
Im for any ideas because I don?t know but I thought it might be easier to drill a hole centered between the two plugs than trying to drill half way through one plug . We?ll Just have to see what ends up working the best
cvphoto9099.jpg
 
I used a kit once for a block crack.
It has a jig you use to space the holes.
The jig is spaced to where you drill every other hole; insert the plugs (that break off when tight) and then grind excess down.
You then go back and drill the holes between the plugs.
I did not find tapping the holes on the second go around any worse than the first time even though you were tapping the block and the ends of two plugs at the same time.

I have never tried it with brass plugs though.
 
That?s kinda my plan drill the first set of holes let the glue dry and then drill the holes between the plugs the next day
 
Do you have an old piece of cast laying around? I think I would try stitching something else first to get the hang of it before drilling the real thing.
 
I don?t know but I found an article in gas engine magazine that showed how to do it using brass rod threaded ant then Jon sent me a video on YouTube where a guy repaired the same engine block using the brass pipe plugs . I really want to try and repair the block and see how it goes until I can get enough money saved up to buy another truck to use while I do a complete engine overhaul on this one. Kinda like how we use old tractors it?s nice to have a spare to use while you can take time to fix the other . Here?s the video
Block repair
 
A shop repaired a block on the top,they used the same method but used steel bolts after screwing the bolts in they cut them off flush with the block then drilled and threaded between the bolts.Must have been OK we used the truck for years afterward.
 
If you look closely at this picture, this A has a plate (rusted area below the manifolds) covering the side of the engine that was bolted on when I bought this tractor 15 years ago. I have no Idea what it is covering, but the plate actually wraps around the front of the block. I just cleaned it up and painted it when I redid the tractor 7 years ago. I has never leaked and doesn't use water. It's been used for mowing since I got it. It will be retired to trailer queen this year as I got a JD to replace it.
cvphoto9125.jpg


cvphoto9126.jpg
 
I would use an epoxy based fast setting two part glue on the threads. (5 minute Gorilla glue epoxy) Because it will set as used in small batches, and because it stops being a lubricant when hard (prevents turning of the plug, especially after staking the plug), and when hard, it provides a heat resistant barrier. Jim
The glue of choice
 
The method I used is called lock and stitch.
You can find pictures on utube about it.
They even make a repair for a crack that ends in a bolt hole.
Kind of pricy the first go around because you need to buy all the jigs but it makes the repair easy and fool proof.

I was once at a trade show where they took 2 pieces of metal and put them together with the locks.
Then they used this piece of metal to lift a heavy weight.

While I have never seen it done I can not think of a reason you could not repair a hole in the block where a rod came threw with the lock and stitch method.
 
Good luck with the repair. Since pipe plugs have a taper, I suspect it is critical that a person apply exactly the same amount of torque on each plug so as not to expand what has already been done before. I think someone mentioned this before in a previous post or reply.
 
When I was in college, 50+ years ago, a student had a 6 cylinder truck. The front cylinder had a crack where a head bolt may have been overtighten. So he made a 5 cylinder by closing off the intake valve.
Poor people have to survive.
 
A lot of old tractor blocks seem to crack in that same area and I always thought a sheetmetal plate held on with a series of small, (maybe 10-24) screws would be a quick and successful way to repair them. Never tired it though. It seems with a good cleaning after the work of drilling and tapping, a good bead of silicone sealant and you would have a good repair. You prove that out.
 
(quoted from post at 11:33:59 03/22/20) Good luck with the repair. Since pipe plugs have a taper, I suspect it is critical that a person apply exactly the same amount of torque on each plug so as not to expand what has already been done before. I think someone mentioned this before in a previous post or reply.
Click to expand...

That is why the commercially sold kits use straight threads i.e. Threaded rod or bolts or set screws.

Torquing a pipe plug will force the mother material apart.

On the other hand pipe plugs might not be a bad choice as long as they are turned in just enough to feel them get just a bit snug like one pinky on the outer end of a six inch wrench, lol.
Which would equal the mother metal refusing to spread out.

After all the bolt, set screw or threaded rod method have no torque at all applied/remaining other than thread quality.

But make dang sure you install the plugs well beyond where you think the crack ends. At least one maybe two diameters worth.
 
The guy in the video used pipe plugs and the repair lasted two years and maybe longer I don?t know I don?t have YouTube to write the guy and ask
 
Yes I know that and even up until about ten years ago Cummins would give you a new block the ketch was you had to take it to a Cummins shop and pay the labor and Put an engine overhaul kit in which you had to pay for . There are many blocks besides just the Brazilian 53 and the taco block. Anything but the 53 Is good some have a 55 some have a 56 some have a string of small numbers some have no numbers at all . I already have a non 53 block bought and paid for but I want to see what I can do
 
Yes I posted earlier about it . Just got all the parts yesterday. I hope we can make a successful repair right now it leaks about a gallon a day
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

F
Seek a machine because of the engine?
Replies
11
Views
1K
Fixingfarmer
Fixingfarmer
L
computor questions
Replies
18
Views
438
1948CaseVAI
1
M
Block heater
Replies
5
Views
256
Michael 1910
M
2
Mixed fleet antifreeze recommendations
Replies
8
Views
440
4play
4
C
585 MM CUMMINS SWAP
Replies
4
Views
503
scootergmc
S
Tractor Parts Tractor Manuals

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy

Back
Top