1937 F20 - Starting

Binderson

Member
Good morning,

I plan to start a 1937 F20 that hasn't ran in about a year and I have never started it myself. I have seen my father start it many times but it has been years. I have a couple questions to ensure it's a safe start. The lever by the steering wheel is to retard the mag but where should I set it? All the way up is that full retard and all the way down is full power? I'm aware of starting it with my left hand and my thumb should not be wrapped around it. Should it be full choke? Where should the throttle be set? What causes a tractor to kick back when you're crank starting them? The tractor has never kicked back on my dad who always started it but I'm not sure if he was setting it in the correct spots?

Thanks for the help!
 
I am not aware of anyone cranking a tractor with there left hand nor have seen it done. incorrect timing is what causes the kickback. the piston has not come up to tdc and the spark produced forces it back down riping the crank out of your hand or breaking your wrist. that is the purpose of that retard rod. follow that rod to the mag and operate it. the advance lever on the mag is up for stop. just off stop to start it. then fully advanced for working. yes fully choke it till it fires with 1/3 throttle. after firing or starting open choke.
but if unsure of stuff give it a pull. te biggest reason these tractor kick is because they get timed by ear and guaranteed they will be advanced to much. as I say set to factory spec's and your safe.
 
Starting the F20 should be pretty much the same as starting my F14 was.

Advance to mid-range, throttle cracked just enough to put some tension on the governor spring, full choke if it's cold.

Roll the crank around slowly until you feel it come up on compression then reset the crank to the lowest position and pull UP on it briskly. Resist the temptation to wind it like a watch, if it catches on the down-stroke you can get hurt.

If it doesn't start on the first pull, find compression and reset the crank as described above, pull UP again. Repeat as needed.

Once it fires once, even if it doesn't start, I usually shut the choke off before cranking again.
 
Only pull up on the crank and make sure you DO NOT wrap your thumb around the crank. Put it up on top with your fingers. This way if/when it does kick back the crank can easily come out of your grasp and not break your thumb.
 
(quoted from post at 08:18:12 03/09/20) I am not aware of anyone cranking a tractor with there left hand nor have seen it done. incorrect timing is what causes the kickback. the piston has not come up to tdc and the spark produced forces it back down riping the crank out of your hand or breaking your wrist. that is the purpose of that retard rod. follow that rod to the mag and operate it. the advance lever on the mag is up for stop. just off stop to start it. then fully advanced for working. yes fully choke it till it fires with 1/3 throttle. after firing or starting open choke.
but if unsure of stuff give it a pull. te biggest reason these tractor kick is because they get timed by ear and guaranteed they will be advanced to much. as I say set to factory spec's and your safe.

Thank you for the reply. I am not sure why I said I use my left hand since I am right handed and I would use my right hand. So if it's timed correctly it shouldn't kick back and if it's never kicked back on my dad then it shouldn't kick back? Or is me messing with the retard lever what puts it in time? Would you say maybe move the level down 1/4 of the way when trying to start it? When it starts I'd shut the choke off once it's running good and move that retard lever down further to get it running smooth?
 

Thank you for the reply. That is one of the main things I remember my dad always telling me to make sure I do anytime you hand crank the tractor.
 
I have 2 F20s and a Farmall A that are crank start. On the F20s I set the retard in the middle, some throttle and choke. I find
it much easier after they have set like yours, to use the crank to make sure it is loose, then hook a chain to it and start it
from the seat with someone pulling it. I don't care what anyone says, eventually it is going to kick back and your wrist and
shoulder will be talking to you.
 
Actually using your left hand is the smart thing to do. When cranking you pull up and to right so standing to crank with your right hand you are directly in front of crank to be easier to get cought on it if something happens. Now standing where you use your left hand if it kicks back and pulls the crank out of your hand you are clear of the crank if it flys off and not where it is going to hit you in the belly. And in doing that pulling up with hand just lightly holding handle of crank, not with fingers wraped around it will pull out of your fingers and want to throw your hand away from the cramk. I have never cranked an engine but just looking at things and putting yourself as far from the crank tells you to use that left hand. Dad cranked the AC combine but the only way to get to crank was left hand even if you were right handed as Dad was. But never try to spin it or push down on crank as that is a sure way to get hurt. Just take the time to just stand in front of tractor and study how to pull the crank and you can see where being closer to crank trying to use your right hand is not a good idea. Place your right hand on crank with out turning engine over and see where your body is and then do same thing with your left hand. Then see where you are standing in relation to crank and your body. Only use your right hand to crank an engine if you do not have a left hand to do it.
 

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