Starting problem.

I had to change the freeze plugs on my ford 4000
Diesel behind the fly wheel. I put the fly wheel back where it exactly was. I bled all the line. Have fuel
Going to injector but the tractor won?t start. Do you think I need to re set the timer. Incase I didn?t put the flywheel back in the exact spot? If so how do i do that ??

I'm sure you bled the low pressure lines, but now you need to slightly loosen the high pressure lines going to the injectors and bleed them as well while cranking the engine.

Beagle

Timing is changed at the pump, NOT flywheel. I think you need to loosen all injector line nuts, and bleed again.

I've had these diesels look like they are pumping fuel to the injectors. But it isn't bled all the way yet, need to bleed just a bit more and get the volume up. I only use one or two lines and leave the others so it fires when it's ready. Bleeds just as fast.

I'm not following your post but for the flywheel (I assume you mean the engine flywheel), most engines that I have dealt with (not a whole lot), you can't reinstall the crankshaft incorrectly since one of the bolt holes is slightly off pattern and can only be aligned one way to reinstall it.

I have a 3550 diesel. It is a "bear" to get bled if I run it out of fuel. Flywheel not connected to fuel system. Just not purged enough to fire yet. May have to pull start it rather than cranking the starter so much.

A diesel engine will run on WD-40. Sometimes after I've changed fuel filters I've squirted puffs of WD-40 into the intake to keep the engine running until it takes off on its own.

Before you do anything else try pull starting it.

Full tank helps

I had the very same experience on a 3000 Ford. Flywheel can not be installed wrong.

Just a point of information.

Those core plugs are NOT freeze plugs. If you have water in your cooling system and it freezes, they will NOT save your block from cracking,

Those plugs are used to close off the holes that were used to remove the casting mold when the block was manufactured. The process is called sand casting, and the sand is removed through those holes once the casting cools. Then the holes are machined to fit the p[lugs, and the plugs are installed.

Again, they will not protect your engine in the event of a freeze.

As others have said, we know from experience that it is 98% chance that you need to bleed more. In order for it to start you also need adequate RPMs. It is common to run the battery down while bleeding. When posting about your 4000 you need to give the number of cylinders. Ford built two totally different 4000s.

You had to pull the engine out,, or at least split the tractor to change the flywheel... and that means you probably disconnected the fuel system...

Timing in NOT a problem as the injector pump did not move as its tied to the front of the engine.

You did loose prime... so... fill the tank more than half way... so it will gravity prime. loosen the prime bolt on the filter assembly till clean fuel runs out with no bubbles...tighten bolt.. then loosen the bleed bolt on the ipump till clear fuel runs out with no bubbles.. carefully tighten this little bolt back up and DONT strip it on the pump...

If no fuel runs out on these first two steps, cranking will do no good.

Make sure the pump cut off lever is fully forwards.. and start cranking, but dont crank for too long and burn up the starter. let the starter cool down... if you loosen the injector lines at the injectors, when you start to see drops of fuel dribble a bit, you can tighten up the lines as you have most of the air out and crank some more. You should then start to see white smoke coming out of the exhaust as you crank.. This is the beginning sign your actually getting some diesel fuel into the engine. If very cold, you need to run a hair dryer on the intake manifold and into the intake manifold while cranking, to help it start... A thermo-start system may be on the tractor and help it start also. A bit of carefully applied ether... can greatly help but DONT over do it...