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Brake job

J

john in la

Well-known Member
Location
What part of in La do you not understand
What do you consider a brake job???

Replacing the pads with stock semi metallic pads. Upgrading to ceramic pads. Using the old rotors. Turning the old rotors. Replacing the rotors with new even though the old rotors are within tolerance. Replacing the calibers and rubber hose.
 
I would say pads only, after that it parts needed or should be replaced
for a completely new brake job. when sears or midis offer $79 per axle
cant't believe its any thing more that cheap low end pads or shoes
only, everything else becomes a up charge. my .02
 
Every brake job must repair replace, or rebuild every component that would reduce the reliability or service life of the brakes. So no definition for me other than stopping power that can be depended on as well as the original equipment, or better. Jim
 
Rotors and pads was always standard where I worked. A complete inspection sometimes yielded a problem with the calipers and if we found cracked brake hoses they got replaced. If the vehicle had drum brakes we replaced all springs and keepers along with the shoe. The drum would need to be good or it was turned or worse case replaced. The term Brake job is pretty ambiguous. We always did everything right and our customers understood and appreciated the work. Of coarse we were a small town shop where our customers were all repeat customers and we stood behind our work.
 
Whatever it takes to restore factory performance, and intended service life in regards to parts replacement/resurfacing if can be done. There is nothing more annoying than warped rotors caused by seized or improperly performing slides and ones brakes chattering. Driving habits and or conditions play a big role in service life, personally I try to never have to constantly be hard or heavy on the brakes, friend is the same way, but he lives up on the mountain so to speak, those hills reduce service life significantly.
 
(quoted from post at 17:43:16 01/22/20) What do you consider a brake job???

Replacing the pads with stock semi metallic pads. Upgrading to ceramic pads. Using the old rotors. Turning the old rotors. Replacing the rotors with new even though the old rotors are within tolerance. Replacing the calibers and rubber hose.
Click to expand...
If there aren't any issues with the system, I consider a brake job to be new pads and rotors. I used to consider a brake job to be new pads and have the rotors turned, but that doesn't seem to be a thing anymore.

Just throwing new pads on is called a pad slap, and should only be considered if the car is on it's way to the scrap yard within the next year.
 
There are a lot of variables to consider.

Most daily driver cars, it's about a break even on replacing or turning the rotors. I prefer replacing if they are reasonably priced, as opposed to trusting the auto supply technician to turn them.

If it is a truck, or expensive car, something out of the ordinary, having them turned may be feasible. I will find a reputable shop to do it.

The calipers, if they are in good working order, just look them over, clean up the slides, they should be fine.

If reason to believe there is a problem, replace them, usually in pairs.

A visual inspection of the hoses and lines.

A visual inspection of the master cylinder for leaks. If it has a lot of miles, the fluid is nasty, replace it. Often disturbing the system will start a mc to leaking or bypassing. If the inside of the bore is pitted or dirty, pushing it down further than it's used to operating (as in pumping out the caliper pistons or bleeding, flushing) will foul the seals.

Any time brake shoes are replaced, the cylinders will need new seals or replacing. Every time!

The type pads is personal preference. Here's some guidelines:
Pad Types
 
In my experience, OEM pads are hard to beat. On newer cars, the OEM pads are often ceramic.

Here in the rust belt, resurfacing rotors is usually not an option. I don't even bother trying; buying new rotors saves an extra trip to pick up resurfaced rotors from the machine shop. Again, OEM rotors are mo' betta than aftermarket.

Calipers seem to be good for at least 100K miles, but they do need to be inspected to make sure they move freely. Lubricate the pins and other metal-to-metal contact points when replacing pads. Replace the calipers and flush out the old fluid every other pad change. I've found that reman calipers often don't fit right: sandblasting alters their dimensions.

Back in the day, we used to hone the wheel cylinders and install new piston seals. It's been about thirty years since I bought a wheel cylinder kit; store quit carrying them years ago.

These days, I order all the parts I think I'll need from Rock Auto ahead of time. All brand new OEM parts for the same cost as aftermarket parts from the local chain stores.
 
I use ceramic pads and turn the rotors if possible. New rotors otherwise. Other parts are replaced on an as needed basis.

With shoes the cylinders get rebuilt or replaced.
 
My experience, on multiple vehicles. Turning rotors is a waste of money, just a pathway to ruin new pads. Get new rotors and ceramic pads. Ignore the squeal when the ceramic pads are wet. A Much much cheaper option in the long run. Has doubled the brake life on my trucks, versus turning rotors.
 
(quoted from post at 16:43:16 01/22/20) What do you consider a brake job???

Replacing the pads with stock semi metallic pads. Upgrading to ceramic pads. Using the old rotors. Turning the old rotors. Replacing the rotors with new even though the old rotors are within tolerance. Replacing the calibers and rubber hose.
Click to expand...

From what point of view are we looking at this?

If my own vehicle it would consist of evaluating the various brake parts and replacing what is actually needed to make the brakes perform like new again, from the point of view of a service writer at a stealership the parts list would b a little longer (even if all the parts on the list don't ultimately get replaced)

(Not that such a thing would ever happen at a stealership. :roll: )
 
I always replace rotors with pads, and then do a mini burnish-road test to help bed the pads and rotors. Caliper pins or slides are cleaned and lubed or replaced if needed, along with replacing shims. I prefer semi-metallic but most people would be better fit to use ceramic, just for the fact of possible noise reduction and dust.

Organic pads make up the majority of OEM's, but usually not on trucks, high performance or premium vehicles.

Metallic pads have the best for braking performance (racing, high speed, towing, heavy duty use etc) most trucks should use metallic pads

Ceramic is the quietest, long lasting pad, still has decent performance
 
So, ceramic pads is not necessarily an upgrade, especially if you want the best braking performance. Also the best pads are not going to be found at a dealer or local auto parts store and probably won't be a brand most people are familiar with.
 

Resurfacing brake rotors has faded away #1 because new rotors have become inexpensive #2 the labor time it takes to perform the process and the equipment needed to do the job. I am a holdout I do it just because I like to BUT learning fast it s not cost productive. The time it takes to do the process is actually costing me money you could be doing other more profitable jobs in that time. The minimum discard thickness is there for a reason tho very few check it.

New rotors have a 2 year warranty if issues arise change them out life will be good.

I perform a brake fluid flush/change it s a EZ sale adds profit to the job and no doubt a benefit that s noticeable.

Warring do not use Permatex Ceramic extreme brake parts lubricant the purple kind it s not rubber safe it will lock/jam the caliper pins up it swells the rubber seals It s to be used on metal to metal parts only. I don t like the green either I use CRC life is good
 
A few years ago I was on a delivery job averaging 150 mile a day 6 days a week and 2.5 stops per mile so I bought a lot of rotors. And at that time a lot of the new rotors had to be turned before install because they were out of round. Don't know if better now but at that time they had a problem. And I always kept a couple of turned rotors and extra brake pads in the vehical. I was wearing out a set of pads every 2 weeks or less due to all those stops.
 
Want nothing to do with ceramic pads and neither did my garage after the BAD preformance and damage they did on the garages first set they put on. Did not last a week and ruined new rotors. Called a mailmans pad at that time. I was not delivering the mail but the local newspaper and doing as many or more stops than the mail carrier.
 
I've seen, heard, and read in multiple places over the past few years of a "new wisdom" in brake rotor replacement: As long as the rotor does not have any deep grooves, and is still within tolerance for minimum thickness, pad replacement is an acceptable repair.

I did that on my old truck the last couple of times. Brakes worked fine. Second set of pads actually lasted LONGER than average. I was getting about a year and a half out of a set of pads. That set lasted two full years...

That's just my experience. You do you. If you like to replace rotors every time, replace the rotors.
 
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