flying belgian

Well-known Member
I think I asked here before but forgot. I am rebuilding a wagon gear to build a flat rack. Do I give the front end any toe-in? I've made new steering bushings and have 4 new imp tires. 7:50-15 if that makes a difference. I want to get this right so it trails down the road nice and my new tires last. Thanks.
 
As I recall from a tractor book- 1/8 to 1/4 inch toe in, measured half way up the widest point of the tires. Wouldn't hurt to rotate tires some and get an average.
 
It all depends on what wagon u have. john Deere wagon was the only wagon u could pull at hyway speeds. and never wondered. Others hardly to 20 m p h. They had poor steering design. John Deere had the vehicle type with the tie rods behind the wheels. But yes give it 1/16 - 1/8 toe in. The more play in tie rods the more toe in u could run.
 
I would give it at least 1/8 inch of toe in, and the best way to check this is; roll it forward and stop, without letting it roll back. Put a piece of masking tape on the center of the back of each tire, in a position where you can measure straight across. Make a small vertical mark on each piece of tape and measure between, then roll it forward to the front and measure again. Be careful not to let it roll back because if there is any slack anywhere it may give you a false reading.
 
We have a fleet of old 953 Deere hay wagons,(10 of them), now and then we pull the wheels and pack bearings,, also adjust the alignment of all the wheels with a little camber front and rear,, rear wheels near straight,, front wheels toed in about 1/4"..they track extremely well 2 pf them hooked together empty will track 50 MPH behind a pick up straight as an arrow..
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The old stand-by shade tree toe in adjustment I've used involved running a piece of masking tape or white spray paint all the way around the tire.

Then with the wheel off the ground, get it spinning, hold a fine tip Sharpie against a steady rest object and touch it to the tape or white paint. That will put a perfect line all the way around the tire. Doing it that way will eliminate any false reading caused by a bent wheel, or a less than perfect tire.

Then roll the wagon, or whatever vehicle you are working on, straight forward a few feet on flat pavement. Measure front and back between the lines, that will give the toe alignment.

If you can't get a straight measurement (and you usually can't), you can get a board, put an upright piece on each end as tall as the centerline of the wheel. Lay the board across behind the wheels, mark the lines, carefully move the board to the front of the wheels, compare the measurement.

It's a crude way of doing it, but if done carefully it will give good results!
 
Steve has it right with the mark. We just used a nail with a good point whith the wheel jacked up spin it let the nail make a mark then measure from the mark front and back as close to the spindle height as you can get and do it at the same height front and back. 1/16 to and 1/8 is just right with all the slop out of the linkage it will track good. The tie rods need to be the same length also. Or it will turn shorter one way than the other. might even lock over center with the tie rod so it will not straighten out.
 
yep, that's the ones, dad bought his new in early 1960's still have it and the uncles. can go down the hyway as fast as you want.
 
I have used string. Make sure the rears are parallel to the frame. Line up the fronts as best the same way. Run a string around all 4 tires and it will be relatively easy to see how the fronts are oriented. Hey, it worked for the initial setup on a Group 7 car (think McLaren). Took it to the track and it wasn't perfect, but danged close. Went to alignment shop on the way home and it was out 1/16 on toe in and 1 degree on camber. Luck, or amazing skill !!
 
When I built this one, I set it by sight and watched as I pulled it around the yard.
Only had to make one adjustment.
(Just trying to be funny).
It never goes over about 3 MPH.
Richard in NW SC

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Simplest way. Get 2 yard sticks and hold them together against inside of each tire and read measurement, then do it again on other side of wheel, front and back or back and front. Depending on location of coupling pole and hitch you might have to co slightly above or below center of tire but it will still give you the toe in, might be a 32 of an inch off having to do that, Just keep sticks at same place on both tires.
 

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