It's now or wait for spring

Geo-TH,In

Well-known Member

cvphoto2487.jpg


cvphoto2488.jpg

It took 21 yards.
Got it buggied in in less than 3 hours.
Now they are using hand trowels to do the
edges. After it set for a while they
will use the motorized trowel.
 
I hope they pulled the wire mesh up into the concrete, won?t do any good laying flat on the floor.
 
(quoted from post at 10:37:55 01/17/20) I hope they pulled the wire mesh up into the concrete, won?t do any good laying flat on the floor.
hats what the guy with the pole is doing I'm guessing.
 
Most every lumber yard and block yard have bags of plastic "Chairs" that the mesh locks into and holds the mesh/rebar up off the plastic, fore little money, But with a buggy they would have likely just smashed them down. Most concrete contractors don't care for plastic vapor barrier either, as it adds to the time before it can be finished off and are not too careful when they hook up the steel mesh into the concrete with their come-a-longs and they tare holes in it.----------------------------- Loren
 
I've torn up a good share of concrete that had wire mesh. Some was on the bottom doing no good but most was some where in the slab doing what it was intended. In the demolition process one had better have a set of bolt cutters handy, because just because the concrete is broken up the wire still holds on. gobble
 
These guys have done a lot of work for me in the past. I've never had first crack, not to say this won't crack.
5.5 inches thick 4000#, 21 yards.
This is all these guys do for a living. They are union finisher.
 
With 21 yards it will be giving off a lot of heat, no problem freezing, especially inside a building. When they poured Hoover dam they installed a refrigeration system to keep the concrete form overheating.
 
that mix looks very wet unless it has super plasticizers in it---did you take slump tests and test cylinders?
I never allowed calcium in a mix--it raises the chloride level and hastens corrosion of the steel, plus reduces the durability
 
I suppose if you joined me on a road show with your man lift and my honor we might get rich.

I have more faith using this crew vs my contractor's crew for Mexico. He wanted to use fiberglass.

George
 
You know george you have to put up a basketball goal now. It's a hoosier tradition! Looks good to me.
 
You're exactly right on all counts,plus with the wire on the bottom its useless.Fiber in the concrete is much better and I've seen test cylinders broken to prove it.
Like I've stated before about 95% of non tested concrete is pored wrong and out of spec.A concrete inspector would have called a halt to that pour before it happened.
 
Interesting you mentioned pipe screeds.That's what they used where I used to live. Where I am now, the finishers drive a rebar stob down to grade, say 10 to 15 feet on center. Trowel a circle around each one, and pull off to each pad. If you have drains, pull string lines from perimeter chalk line to drains, and drive stobs accordingly. Beat pins below grade after you bull float.
 
The wire on the bottom is not useless, because the guy in the green coat is pulling it up as he goes. He's skimming the top to help the finishers pull it off easier. The tool he's using has a pin on the opposite side to pull up the wire. I doubt many test cylinders are taken on a residential job, only commercial. Besides, if the concrete is made to specs at the batch plant, and no water is added at the barn, everything is cool. Let them do their job. What, no inspector at a pole barn ?
 
The jackleg wire thing doesn't work.Maybe its 'just a pole barn' but for me spending several thousand$ I'd want to get a good job,test cylinders are done on commercial jobs because the owners want it done right.Same reason to take them on any job,first off every finisher in the World will add water to the mix to make it easier to place just goes with the job.Adding too much water can turn 4000lb concrete mix into 2000lb or worse in a hurry.Test cylinders and inspector puts the concrete company on notice to send what they are supposed to send,not stick in a few yards of hot mix from another job that came back on the truck etc.Plus with inspector making cylinders and documenting the pour if cylinders break below what they are supposed to then the problem and who is going to pay to fix the problem can be nailed down real easy.
 
the specs i wrote for concrete was for it to be kept at 40* F minimum for 6 days. We always had recording thermometers inserted into the mix--straw or hay on top of the concrete worked very well for keeping the heat in
 

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