Preferred Old Tractor for Antique Tractor Drive

333 MH diesel, it sets up high in the seat and you can see we?ll plus it has a decent road gear. Dad liked driving his 2N Ford, he found it easy and comfortable to drive.
 
John Deere 820, runs cheap, dependable, will go up any hill in road gear, never need to down shift.
 
Something new enough to have a decent cab with AC and a heater. Gotta remember the JD's with the sound guard cab, 86 series IH ECT are all old tractors now. Guy can add an air ride seat and be bored in comfort.

Rick
 
First drive I did was in 2003, and here's what I've learned after using several tractors, in this order, Ford 6000 gas, IH 544 Hydro gas, Ferguson TO-35 23C diesel, MF 85 standard diesel, Agri Power 7000 diesel, and latest one a Farmall 560 diesel. For comfort, safety, and convenience, I want MECHANICAL Power steering, tractor can still be steered safely if it needs towed. Not so with newer hydrostatic steering. Same for brakes, Mechanical non power so brakes work with engine off. Diesel engine, not so much for economy but because diesels have better engine braking down hills. A six cylinder engine as they run smoother than four cylinder engines do. Wide front end, narrow fronts can't miss the bumps as well. Air ride seat, and longest wheelbase possible with radial tires for a smoother ride. A Power shift transmission, or at least a two speed similar to a torque. In 2018 the 560 ended with 3,210 miles, 2019 it ended with 4,205 miles in seven states. Most miles driven in one day was 186. Here's a photo before I drove the 165 miles to Rantoul Half Century show in August..
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I like my Super H. It's easy to drive,has plenty of speed and power for the steeper hills,and is easy to haul to the event. However,I've taken my SM,JD A and others with an equal amount of fun.
 
I will probably get a few raised eyebrows about this go to tractor ride tractor!

Modified rear end 1950 DC-3 17 mph

Purrs down the road

Turns on a dime literally
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Massey Ferguson 50 gasser. Can go slow, can go fast. Steers easy w/o power steering. Easy on, easy off. Easy on fuel.
 
If you are just starting to look for one, I would look for a Farmall H or M. Cheap to buy, plenty fast, parts are available, and they run smoother, at lower speeds, than two cylinder John Deeres do. Wide front, power steering and an umbrella are all good things to have. Might think about replacing an old pan seat with a battery box seat, off of something else.
 
Before your ride check with organizers to determine route travel speed. You won't have fun on your 10 mph hour tractor if ride cruises at 16mph. H Farmall seems to be most popular, so dare to be different.
 
Ford 2N with Sherman overdrive.......'cause it's the only one I got,'cept for my 6 AC garden tractors
 
(quoted from post at 23:46:42 01/01/20) Before your ride check with organizers to determine route travel speed. You won't have fun on your 10 mph hour tractor if ride cruises at 16mph. H Farmall seems to be most popular, so dare to be different.

Very good idea.
I do a local parade with a Farmall cub or a Farmall H because of the pace of some of the floats.
I did a tractor ride with my Case VAI and got left in the dust. I think it was more of a race than a ride though. I only did that one once.
 
My monthly Electrical Co-0p magazine is advertising a central Tx. antique tractor run-show...."rustyiron.net" may be of interest to you.
 
A Farmall 300 or 350 has one advantage over an H. It has a TA that allows speeds from 12 to 18 with controlable takeoff in TA reduction and shift to direct. It will coast in TA reduction so that needs to be understood, but the flexibility of the no clutch gear change is a fine addition. They are H sized tractors with better seats. Jim
 
I'd agree with the H Farmall, but make sure the front end does not have the death wobble.
 
We do not have those multi state-day tractor drives in my part of the country. Here a tractor drive is sponsered by a local tractor club and you must be a member of that club to parcipate. And they are about 30 mile and 5-6 hour long having different stops at interesting places and figuring time for lunch. And on this type of drive the tractors are all to old to have a cab or even be in the over 40 horsepower size. They are all what the owner has in his colection and it might be his first tractor, dads tractor or the one he pulls his manure spreader with just hosed down to halfway clean. Mostly tractors of the 40's with some up to mid 50's. Hard pressed to find any newer ones than that. You don't want any 4 speed Deeres or Farmall F series, Allis is probably out because of a 4 speed tranney not doing 12 MPH and that would be about average to top speed of most tractors in the drive. If you are interested in that type of drive find a local club or three, join and learn to know the guys and when if they do have a drive and not all clubs will have them they will help uou figure out what to use and if you have not yet gotten a tractor one of the club members might just loan you one to be able to be in the drive. But about tops in numbers would be 30 tractors being more likely 20-25 tractors. And some will pull a trailer with gas cans on if you run out, chains if you need pulled, tools to get you restarted and also a couple of seats for owners family. I know knothing about those big multi state-day drives as if they were around and I had a tractor for that I still would not go even being retired as you would not get the personal interaction.
 
I built a Super H-TA two seater for rides, put 13.6 tires on it so I can throttle back and maintain speed. It's light to haul on my bumper hitch car trailer which is easy to load and can chain the tractor down standing on the ground. Easy becomes more important as we age.
 
Depends on how FAST ya want to go . If we had them around here myself i would either take the S/MTA or the 806 . Ya want SPEED then the S/MTA with the 16.9x38's and RPM's set 20 % above stock , best turn your hat around . Comfort then the 806 .
 
(quoted from post at 02:43:59 01/02/20) What is your preferred tractor to drive on an antique tractor drive? And why?

50 Farmall M. Biggest reason was speed. Used to run JD A's. The 1944 I had could keep up with the red tractors, but the 51 I had could not because of JD changing the road gears during production. Plus I kinda like the foot clutch over the hand clutch.
 
Another FOR SPEED option is what the Mennonites do to their IH 560, remove the 3.26 ring and pinion and install the 2.63 gear set from a 400/450. Bump the engine a bit and 40 plus MPH is easy to pull the carpentry tool trailer with. Better have the trailer brakes working though..
 
I average 1100 miles per year on tractor rides, not nearly as many as Diesel Tech. I have two tractors that I use for rides. I bought a Farmall 300 for the reasons stated below. It?s a fairly common tractor, parts are readily available, it?s not a heavy tractor so trailering it is not a problem, it goes at least 16 mph which covers all the rides I?ve been on and the TA is great for starting, when you?re bunched up, going through a community, or when you need the extra torque on a hill (not very often). The second tractor I purchased for rides is an IH 454. This tractor is lower to the ground, is easy to load on a trailer, has a top speed of 19-20 mph and has a four speed synchronized shift in either high or low range.
I would recommend two accessories for your tractor ride tractor, a buggy top umbrella (don?t get a single pole umbrella you?ll ruin it on a windy day) and a box of some sort to carry a tow strap, extra jacket, tools, and rain suit. Have fun!
Wayne
 
(quoted from post at 06:46:03 01/02/20) A Farmall 300 or 350 has one advantage over an H. It has a TA that allows speeds from 12 to 18 with controlable takeoff in TA reduction and shift to direct. It will coast in TA reduction so that needs to be understood, but the flexibility of the no clutch gear change is a fine addition. They are H sized tractors with better seats. Jim

This brings up a question I've wondered about. I've never run any tractor with a T/A. I understand how they work under a load when pulling, being able to downshift. But how do they work on the road when used for slowing? Can you downshift a T/A and get engine braking? It seems all of them freewheel in low so I wasn't sure how that worked. And do they all work the same (IH, MM, Oliver, etc)?
 
There are 2 basic systems. One is the original mechanical TA in SMTA F300 350 300U 350U. and small framed tractors. It relies on a direct drive
clutch, and a Sprag (one way) clutch. See a You tube of its operation. It has no retarding action at all, and will allow dangerous down hill
experiences. They work well, and Mine is still working with no repair and heavy use from 1957. The other is similar, but uses hydraulic
pressure to apply the front clutch, and has a sprag clutch as well. But the sprag clutch has a piggyback multi disc hydraulic clutch that is
applied to prevent coasting down hills. It is definitely not to be used for engine braking. It is not strong enough to hold engine driving
forces, or decelleration speed changes. Jim
 
Thanks to all for your advise. I have a 1948 mid year production Ford 8N but it has no Sherman. So kinda slow. I?m searching for another tractor(s) now using your good advice. Not sure if I?m buying a his/her pair or making a 2 seat for us yet. Price & time will tell. Hope to meet you on a tractor drive sometime/somewhere.
 
Tony here is what I use now, I had been using a 8n without the Sherman, it worked fine just have to run the throttle closer to wide open. My wife rides with me so I put a second seat right behind mine and that works great. The 8n is quiet enough you can have a conversation and is easy enough to get on and off. This one I picked up has the Sherman, so we run along about half throttle, but we drove the other one for 10 years. Also they are nice and light, fit right on a car trailer and can be easily pulled with a half ton pickup.
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(quoted from post at 22:05:07 01/02/20) There are 2 basic systems. One is the original mechanical TA in SMTA F300 350 300U 350U. and small framed tractors. It relies on a direct drive
clutch, and a Sprag (one way) clutch. See a You tube of its operation. It has no retarding action at all, and will allow dangerous down hill
experiences. They work well, and Mine is still working with no repair and heavy use from 1957. The other is similar, but uses hydraulic
pressure to apply the front clutch, and has a sprag clutch as well. But the sprag clutch has a piggyback multi disc hydraulic clutch that is
applied to prevent coasting down hills. It is definitely not to be used for engine braking. It is not strong enough to hold engine driving
forces, or decelleration speed changes. Jim

So, say you're pulling a rack full of hay on the road and you want to slow down for a turn. Would you use the T/A to slow down or would it simply free-wheel when you pull the lever with a load behind it? What about running without a trailer, like on a tractor drive? You say the hydraulic version prevents free-wheeling but you shouldn't use it for engine braking? Seems contradictory.

I presume the Oliver over/under is the hydraulic type you mention. Are the other brands strictly mechanical?
 

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