Welding Rust

rusty6

Well-known Member
I finally made an attempt at patching the rusty trunk floor in the 52 Merc. I figured it was a safe place to practice at it will be out of sight when finished. I'm a real amateur at wire welding but this little Lincoln seems to do a good job with the flux core wire. Easy to tell where the rusted areas are though when I burn through. Its turning into a bigger job as I go. No, its not shiny new sheet metal. Just some recycled New Holland baler shields. Some video here. Not a "how to video". Just how I'm doing it.
Patching The Merc
 
take a flap wheel and knock the rust and paint off, then you can run a bead of continuous spot welds next to each other , less chance of burning through thin metal
 
(quoted from post at 19:33:21 12/06/19) take a flap wheel and knock the rust and paint off, then you can run a bead of continuous spot welds next to each other , less chance of burning through thin metal
Yes, I should have used the wheel first but its not too late. I can try it on the next patch I weld in.
 
As an alternative, you can stick the patch panels im place with silicone caulk/sealant.

Once it cures it's darned near impossible to pull it apart.

Have done that MANY times on combines, as it makes a successful repair without warping the sheet metal as welding does.
 
(quoted from post at 22:11:04 12/06/19) As an alternative, you can stick the patch panels im place with silicone caulk/sealant.
I'll likely try that as a final sealant to cover the welds. I think the temperature is going to be against me for the next 4 months when it comes to applying sealants though.
 
If your welder is capable of using hard wire and gas it will work much better for that. Then you can easily spot weld, just short bursts of weld so you don't build up heat and burn through.
 
Out of curiosity, where's the fuel tank?
Back in the 60s, a friend was replacing the fuel tank sending unit through the trunk access. Thought it would be a good idea to vacuum up the gravel dust before installing the new one.
The shop vac blew up in a big cloud of dust. It's amazing we lived through some of the things we did back in those days.
 
(quoted from post at 06:25:16 12/07/19) If your welder is capable of using hard wire and gas it will work much better for that. Then you can easily spot weld, just short bursts of weld so you don't build up heat and burn through.
The welder is set up for either but I have only used flux core wire. I am using that same technique with the flux core wire. Its just that the metal has thin areas that were rusted more than I realized.
 
(quoted from post at 06:47:51 12/07/19) Out of curiosity, where's the fuel tank?
.
That old rusty shell of a gas tank I showed you out in the box of the GM pickup was the original from the car. Glad I kept it for measurement reference but its way too far gone to use as a tank.
 
I was looking at some videos on line to learn how to install patch panels in the cab corners of my pick up and they were doing it as you suggest only using a spesial adhesive thus saving a lot of time fixing warpage.
 
There's a paintable silicone latex sold
at Menards. However paint won't stick to
100% silicone.
 

There are also products specifically designed and formulated to adhere body panels and seal seams, instead of using some random bathroom caulk and hoping it doesn't fall apart.
 
(quoted from post at 12:46:11 12/08/19) There's a paintable silicone latex sold
at Menards.

You can hope.?

There are high end auto restoration outfits (the ones that are not hurting for money) that will not paint a vehicle if they find out the owner ever used armorall or other like products on the tires, interior, etc.
 
(quoted from post at 10:56:26 12/08/19) There is a reason automotive seam sealer cost 20 bucks a tube.
Sounds like it might not fit too well in my low buck restorations. This is not the History Channel and I am not Stacey David building elaborate creations with sponsorship money. :)
 

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