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Tractor will not fire

S

Steve57

New User
I have a Ford 3000 that I recently replaced the clutch. Now the solenoid has power going to it but none coming out other side. I have put 2 new ones on and still the same thing. Can anyone make a suggestion?
 
Well here we go per the earlier discussion. It sounds like you're saying it doesn't "turn over", or crank? And certainly it can't fire if it isn't cranking.
 
Some solenoids have a battery side and a starter side and if switched they do not work simple as that and that maybe your problem.

But the way you describe things it sound more like the starter will work but the spark plugs do not get spark as per your title.

So after reading I am guessing you mean when you hit the starter button the engine does nothing. RIGHT??
 

I have power going in to the solenoid switch but none coming out therefore the starter will not fire.
 
Yes they are not marked so if you have one of those type you have a 50/50 chance of hooking it up right the first time. If you didn't get it right then switch the battery and starter side. Or you could also have the wrong type solenoid or bad new one
 
Hi,i have no personal experience with
a ford 3000,but generally check and
clean grounds,if not all
connections,and maybe even run a
dedicated ground wire from mount
bolt,also I have an old wheel horse
that gave me a boat load of problems,I
put $300 into it THEN I realized it
wouldn't crank because wire going from
solenoid to starter wouldn't make a
connection when the solenoid end of
wire was tight,so I loosened it,and it
works,could need copper washers maybe
if not bad connection,easiest way to
tell is get a long screwdriver and
touch them together(should crank),when
you test the terminal headed to
starter it probably reads negative or
no light of using 12v tester,because
when the wire is making a bad
connection it grounds out

Just my 2cents,Rock
 
If you're talking about the starter solenoid ??????????????? sure the INPUT is a big battery cable coming down from the battery while the OUTPUT wirers to the starter motor. On many it takes a 12 volt signal down from the START position on a switch to engage and close the solenoid contacts so the starter motor cranks and turns the engine over. If that wire is open or there's no 12 volts down from the starter switch or the solenoid case/frame isn't grounded it wont engage. Its possible to use a jumper wire to jump from the hot INPUT side over to the small S activation terminal on some solenoids to make them engage and there still needs to be a good ground.

You talking about the solenoid or talking about there's no fire at the plugs??????

You may not even have this type of a starter solenoid Im talking about so I need more info to help more

John T
 
Typically on the large stud where your battery cable connects, is at least one smaller wire. Quite often a good sized one, like 10 or 12 gauge. This wire feeds your whole system. It will send power to an ammeter, fuse panel, switches, etc. Then when you try to start, power is sent from your switch[es] to a small terminal on the solenoid, probably first going through safety switch[es] on a shifter, or clutch linkage.
 
Thats common, what matters is when 12 volts is applied to one of the small S activation terminals (and if theres a good ground) the relay closes AND BOTH THE BIG POSTS ARE CONNECTED TOGETHER so the battery is in contact with the starter motor. Its a normally open two terminal relay and once closed the 2 big posts are together so battery current gets to the starter motor. Its never going to close and activate until 12 volts is applied to one of the small S activation terminals and theres a good ground connection.

DISCLAIMER Im talking about Ford type starter solenoids here if you have something different this may or may not be true

John T
 

The tractor would start fine until I replaced the clutch and put it back together. It is a 70 model Ford 3000 and there is nothing modern about it. It's a little aggravating that's for sure.
 
Ah but some ford solenoid require a ground to cause them to engage and others require 12 volts to engage them all depends on the set up.
Example the one that had the neutral safety on the transmission cover used a ground type solenoid but ones that had the key switch start position required the battery voltage to engine the solenoid
 
put a screwdriver across to 2 big lugs on the solenoid it will bypass everything if it turns over starter is good , starting is a hole another issue
 
I'm guessing your solenoid is the round one that has 2 big posts and a small one. And the battery cables connect to the big posts. Usually
one of the smaller wires goes on the same big post where the cable from the battery attaches. That small wire provides power to the ignition
switch and most of the other electrical equipment on the tractor.

Be certain that small wire is on the solenoid post that the cable from the battery connects to and not the other one.
 
Ah, they ALL require Voltage PLUS a Ground to engage, its just that the later Ford type and some tractors used the solenoids case/frame for ground and some older Ford solenoids (seen on several old Ford cars I owned) applied the Ground to the small terminal to engage it. We just don't know WHICH he has grrrrrrrrr

If there are any safety lock out switches or Neutral or Transmission etc switches that are open when they need to be closed ITS NOT GOING TO ENGAGE THE SOLENOID REGARDLESS of the type of Solenoid he has !!!!!!!!

It would be so easy if we were there but over the net has its limitations

Take care and best wishes Rich

John T
 
Geeeeeeeee is it the solenoid doesn't engage and crank the engine over orrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr the solenoid works fine and the engine cranks over BUT THERES NO SPARK???????????????????????

Once we know the problem we will try our best to help

John T
 
So is the engine turning over/cranking or are you getting nothing at all when you hit the starter button. Or is it turning over like it might start but just not starting. If it turns over but does not start check the spark and make sure it is a good blue/white at the center wire of the cap and at all 3 plug wires that jumps a 1/4 inch gap or more
 
Getting nothing. New battery, new solenoid, twice. Battery to solenoid has power when tested but solenoid to starter does not have power when tested.
 
Since I am not there and know the 3000 well does it have neutral safety switch or a clutch safety switch?? One thing you can try but be 1000% sure it is out of gear and preferably tires blocked also. Take a heavy piece of wire like say an old battery cable and jump across the 2 big posts on the solenoid. If it spins over that way the try taking a wire from the small stud on the solenoid to the ground side of the battery. What happens if you do that. If nothing happens try that same wire from the small stud o nth solenoid to the ignition side of the battery. What does that do. If it spins over when you do either one of those with the small stud then good chance you have a safety switch problem. Also if it did not spin over jumping across the 2 big studs good chance you have a bad ground or a bad starter
 
3000 has a safety switch in the top of the transmission the wires come out thru a rubber grommet by the shifter. The wires goes in a cover plate between the transmission top and the bottom of the dash. Behind the that plate there is a couple of connectors that can come loose then the starter wont do anything. you can jump those two wires together and bypass the safety switch to check the safety function I feel like that safety switch wire might have gotten jarred loose when ya split the tractor
 
If a "good" solenoid has power on its INPUT but none over on its output:

1) There isn't a voltage signal getting to the Solenoids small activation terminal when any switch or key or push to start is engaged...?. Bad switch or key or push switch or no voltage to any key or switch or push switch BAT input.. THERE MUST BE VOLTAGE TO ANY SWITCH OR KEY OR PUSH BUTTON so it can send it to the Solenoid.

2) A bad Ground to the solenoid regardless of the type it is..

3) An OPEN circuit in any Neutral or Transmission or any other safety or lock out switch

If its a solenoid that uses a voltage signal to engage it, to by pass any neutral or safety switch or bad key or switch or push button problems with the tranny in neutral one can take a small jumper wire to jump from the hot side of the solenoid over to the small activation terminal to see if the solenoid engages then ?????????????????????? If so the solenoid and ground is okay but if not NOT otherwise look for the problems above...?.

I DO NOT recommend using a screwdriver to jump and short across a solenoids big in and out studs that can be hazardous to a rookie, Find the problem first !!!!!!!!

John T
 
Good point, ANY open or unconnected wires in the safety circuit makes the solenoid inoperative !!!!!!!!!!!!!! he either has an open in the safety circuit or no voltage signal or a bad ground if the solenoid is good and has a ground

Sooooooo easy if we were there lol

John T
 
you can take a piece of 12-14 gauge wire connect one end to the positive on the battery the other end touch it to the small terminal of the starter solenoid just make sure its out of gear
 
put you hand on the solenoid for the starter, turn the key on and you should feel or hear it click if your safety features are working. if it does then check the voltage on the cable going to your starter. if theres no voltage then the solenoid didn't open. if theres voltage then the starter isn't grounded properly or could be a bad starter. if there is voltage hook a jumper cable to the tractor frame and starter housing which should illuminate grounding problem.
 
If it has a second smaller wire, that has to connect to the big bolts on the solenoid. It has to be on the battery side of the solenoid, for the engine to start other wise it will only try to run when the starter is in operation. Much like a bad balasst resistor.
Otherwise it sounds like you have some safety switches not making connection or disabled.
 

Does this 3000 have a gas engine or diesel, they have different starters and solenoids, they also wire slightly different.
3000 is a 65 or later model, all are 12 volt and the gas models uses a solenoid like used on Ford cars and trucks, self grounding needing 12v from the switch to the small start post marked "S" to energize the solenoid. The second small post marked "I" is the ignition feed back to the coil.
There should be a additional wire that connects to the same post on the solenoid as the battery cable, this wire sends 12v power to the ignition switch, if it's connected to the starter cable side nothing will work.
Diesels have the solenoid mounted on the starter and only have one small post for the start wire.

Since the tractor was operational before you split it apart, it sounds like you wired it wrong when you put it back together.
 
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