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Buying my first tractor, wishin I could call my pops

C

Campc

New User
Man my grandad loved tractors. There's not a single moment of my childhood at his house that isnt associated with the unique smells of the multitude of vegetables growing in his front yard or the grease and stale gas from the 4 tractors he was rebuilding in the back yard. He worked his 1 1/2 acre garden until his late 70s with an old ford tractor that he bought new.
When cancer started really taking its toll on him, he sold everything and lived with my mother until he passed a few years back.... (Quick interjection: wear your sunscreen, he literally died from skin cancer that started on the top of his ear and spread to the brain)...
Anyway, I'd be lying if I said I cherished all the moments with him. The last few vibrant years of his life I spent deployed and subsequently figuring out how to adjust/cope post-deployment. I dont really know how else to put it, but for a while, I wasn't in a good frame of mind to learn about tractors or really spend quality time with anyone.
So fast forward to today, I made it through the Marines, cleared my head, finished school, got Married, had a couple babies and just moved into a house on 5 acres. Guess what I need now.... a tractor.
I'd give anything to be able to call and ask him; but I figure there's got to be some old timers out there who wouldnt mind helping me out.
So question #1: Safety Rules? ... are there any general safety rules like there are with firearms? My pops never liked me driving his around much because as hed say: "Ya gone getcha self kilt boy" I think he was mostly worried about the hill in the front and a couple of small drainage ditches. Which I have no intentions of driving aggressively or buying one that has the two front wheels close together. We had a family friend that was killed on one so I think that's why he was kinda paranoid.
Question #2. I want a Ford. Since I cant find his old one I'd like to at least get me one that reminded me of him. he had a workmaster, jubilee, N series, or a 3000. I just need it to do some bush hogging and I'm going to get a finish mower also. I'd like to keep it under 5k. I'm really buying this in the place of a riding lawn mower. All the other aptions aren't really "needs" but I am really fascinated by everything you can hook up to a pto. Which brings me to ....
#3 I remember pops sayin "that bush hog will walk ya in a ditch" .... was that because of a clutch issue or something or is that a common thing?
So thank you all for your time I know that's kinda long sk my apologies. In short I just was hoping uall could point me in the right direction to a tractor that will do what I need without getting me "kilt" haha. Thanks again
 
#1 safety rule is, USE YOUR HEAD! It's a tractor, not a bulldozer, not a battering ram, not an ATV, not a trophy truck.

Whatever tractor you get, BUY an owner's manual. Reprints for just about every tractor ever made are available online. You just spent $5000 on a tractor. Don't quibble over $20 for an owner's manual.

A 3000 would be the newest most modern tractor of the ones you named, and have the most modern features such as a live/independent PTO (there is a difference, not sure which it has), which is likely what your grandfather was talking about when he said it would drive you into the ditch.

On a tractor with a transmission driven PTO like an 8N, the PTO is connected to the rear wheels by gearing, so when you push in the clutch, any momentum in the PTO will drive the rear wheels. A bush hog is a big flywheel, and will push the tractor several feet before stopping. Planning your stops well ahead of time is necessary, and always be ready to pop the tractor into neutral should you get into a pickle.

On a tractor with a live or independent PTO, this does not happen because the PTO is driven separately from the transmission. When you push the clutch you stop.
 
Ford is a good choice. Avoid the N models. The later ones (Jubilee, 600 and 800 series) were much improved. The thousand series
were better yet. Get one with live pto. Avoid those with Select-O-Speed. Most can be retro-fitted with a ROPS. (Roll Over
Protective Structure) Over running clutch (ORC) is a worthy addition to avoid what your Grandfather was talking about. Can be
purchased just about anywhere. (Fleet Farm, Farm & Fleet, TSC, on line, etc.) Personally, if you have reasonably level ground, I
wouldn't get all that excited about a ROPS. Fords are good stable tractors in that regard. I've always observed that a well kept
Ford Jubilee or Powermaster could easily be running just fine one hundred years from now. They were some of the best tractors ever
built.
 
"#3 I remember pops sayin "that bush hog will walk ya in a ditch" .... was that because of a clutch issue or something or is that a common thing?"

The reason he would make this statement would most likely be in reference to a N series Ford. If it did not have an over-running clutch installed on the PTO of
the tractor, the momentum of the bush hog blades spinning would continue to turn the gearbox/pto shaft/tractor internals and even if you pushed in the clutch,
would "drive" the tractor forward through the rearend.

Your preference would be a Ford model with a dual-clutch. This type of clutch has two stages. The first depress of the clutch pedal will disengage the clutch
for ground travel. A second further depress of the pedal would then disengage the power to the PTO.
 
(quoted from post at 07:37:57 12/04/19) #1 safety rule is, USE YOUR HEAD! It's a tractor, not a bulldozer, not a battering ram, not an ATV, not a trophy truck.

Whatever tractor you get, BUY an owner's manual. Reprints for just about every tractor ever made are available online. You just spent $5000 on a tractor. Don't quibble over $20 for an owner's manual.

A 3000 would be the newest most modern tractor of the ones you named, and have the most modern features such as a live/independent PTO (there is a difference, not sure which it has), which is likely what your grandfather was talking about when he said it would drive you into the ditch.

On a tractor with a transmission driven PTO like an 8N, the PTO is connected to the rear wheels by gearing, so when you push in the clutch, any momentum in the PTO will drive the rear wheels. A bush hog is a big flywheel, and will push the tractor several feet before stopping. Planning your stops well ahead of time is necessary, and always be ready to pop the tractor into neutral should you get into a pickle.

On a tractor with a live or independent PTO, this does not happen because the PTO is driven separately from the transmission. When you push the clutch you stop.
Click to expand...

I didnt even think about trying to find a manual for something that old ...glad you said that. Usually the first thing I bug is a maintenance manual. So with the early PTO system... does that mean the pto is only powered with the rear wheels through the diff? Or in other words, would the pto work as a power/drive source if it's in neutral or parked? Or do you have to be moving?
 
Thank you for your service, We're here for you.
There are some safety cartoons to the left in the menu.
A few tips come to mind. Don't hook anything above the axles or you can flip backwards. Keep the power take off shaft guards in place. Make sure it is in neutral when starting-sometimes the clutches stick. Be on the seat when starting. Never leave implements in the raised position when parked-children find their way under them.
Let us know what you buy.
 

I only have a slight hill and a couple of ditches and ledges from where it was farmed long ago... but I think I'm going to get one of the roll bars anyway. If that's one thing I've learned in life it's to "know when ya dont know". And frankly I dont know what I'm doing and am going to have to teach myself hahaha so I'll take all the safety nets I can get. The jubilee and work masters dont have the live pto right ?
 
I appreciate ya. Stuff like that is what I'm talking about. I might see if I can make a big list of what you guys say and type it up. There's a lot of things that yall might think is common sense that someone like me wouldn't have even considered ...like hooking something up above or below the axles. The closest thing I've came to driving any tractor is a snapper lawn mower. Haha.
 
A Jubilee or NAA were not equipped with a live pto although
there was an aftermarket one but it is rare . The Fords from
1955 on could have a 2 stage clutch which gave live pto and
the selectospeed transmission came with live independent
pto.
 
Yes, wear sunscreen and a big hat! Baseball caps don't protect your ears! I had the top of one ear removed 15 years ago and now I get checked every year, so far so good.
 
The "Jubilee" was made only in 1953 as that was ford's Jubilee (50) year. The 1954 was exactly the same tractor minus the
designation of Jubilee. It was simply the "NAA". In 1955 Ford came out with their 'hundred" series tractors. The "Workmaster"
you're referring to was a 600 series tractor of which there were variations as follws:
620= 4 speed, no pto, no 3 point lift.
630= 4 speed with 3 point, no pto.
640= 4 speed, 3 pt, non-live pto.
650= 5 spd, 3 pt, non-live pto.
660= 5 spd, 3pt, Live-pto.
As you can see, buyers could order the tractor they needed without some of the things that most tractor mfgs provided. So, a
farmer might decide he didn't need 5 speeds and a live pto and would order a 640 making the purchase price a little less. The
one you should look for would be (IMHO) a 660. 5 spd transmission with a 3 point hitch and a live PTO. The live PTO is
achieved thru a two stage clutch. Half way depressed the tractor stops moving but the PTO continues. All the way depressed
tractor and PTO stop. Starting out, halfway out with the clutch and the PTO turns. All the way out and tractor and PTO turn.
Very convenient once you get used to it. Problem is, most of the 600 series tractors just said "600" on the side of the hood up
front and "Workmaster" on the hood over the engine. Look for the 5 speed trans and see if it indeed does have a live PTO by
running it.
 
Duh. I forgot to mention that in 1957 Ford changed the third digit in the series designation to a "1" in place of the previous zero. So, the 660 became a 661. Different paint scheme with a red hood, otherwise the same tractor.
 
Maybe a youth tractor driving certification course will have some of the safety info in an interesting and easy to digest form.

I don't know how old this is,
www.farmprogress.com/story-plan-earn-tractor-driving-certification-8-137962

It is great that you are willing to learn from the experience of others rather than in the school of hard knocks (or hard roll-overs).
 
My choice would be a 3000 Ford with live power and power steering .Very good reliable and safe tractor.
 
I'm not ford man but my brother in-law has a 3000 ford . I've used it and I will say it's a real good tractor. The ford has a fast road gear that I like
 
(quoted from post at 10:19:54 12/04/19)

So question #1: Safety Rules? ... are there any general safety rules like there are with firearms?
Click to expand...

Great comparison. Tractors can be as deadly as firearms - Both when used carelessly.

There is no one list for tractor safety. EVERYTHING about a tractor needs to be done with safety in mind. ALWAYS.

Your on to a good start, just asking about safety. Tells me your safety minded. Again, good start.

#1 safety rule is, USE YOUR HEAD! It's a tractor, not a bulldozer, not a battering ram, not an ATV, not a trophy truck.
Click to expand...

Wow Where's the LIKE button when you really want one. EXCELLENT ADVICE.

Couple more things come to mind:

If you feel uncomfortable in a situation, STOP. Your intuition is trying to tell you something. You do not need to prove anything to anybody. It is OK to be EXTRA careful.

ROPS is a good thing. If the tractor yopu end up with has it, use your seat belt in conjunction. Unfortunately, none of the older Fords had ROPS originally.

Tractors are a single rider machine. While most of us may be guilty of having the kid, or grandkid along for a ride, IT CAN BE DANGEROUS. If you have kids who want to tag along, use a trailer or the like. IS STILL EXTREMELY DANGEROUS.
 
Welcome to the forums and thank you for
your service.
I'm a Ford man. Grew up on an Allis B
and a Case DC3. Don't buy one of those.
Dont buy an N Series or Jubilee/NAA
either. And Don't buy a Select O Speed.
Just Don't!
The Hundred Series were better. Had a
lot more refinements and options.
Better yet are the three cylinder
Thousand Series. A 3000 is an
outstanding model. Plenty of power in a
short, low to the ground, (read stable)
nimble package. Lots of options
available on them. Reliable, long lived,
Easy to find parts for - both new and
used. Not hard or complicated to work
on.
I've owned probably 25 three cylinder
Fords. Bought, fixed, sold, parted out,
scrapped, swapped etc.
2000s, 3000s, 4000s plus some industrial
derivitives of those models.
Owned several Ns and Hundreds along the
way too.
Have 3 tractors now. Two 4000s and a
3000. I've gone over to all diesel but
still like and respect the gassers.
Someday I'll go the way of all men and
my tractors will go to others.
The tractor that I like the most, and
use the most, the one I'll keep the
longest, the one they'll have to pry
from my cold dead fingers is my 3000.
It is just a great, small tractor!

cvphoto43674.jpg
 
If I was looking to buy a tractor to use it would need to have 4 things...
1. Live PTO
2. Live Hydraulics
3. 3 point hitch
4. Fenders
On the safety note, my cousin was using a 8N to move some logs (he is not a farm boy) he wrapped the chain around the rear axle and the log he was dragging hit a stump and the tractor "walked" right around on top of him. He is lucky to be around to tell about it. Tractor safety class would be great.
Oh... and brush hogs are one of the most dangerous implements on the farm. Nuff said.
 
Welcome! As others have said, a Ford 3000 or 3600 would suit your needs and desires
best. Good machine.

Ben
 
the first thing my uncle told me when I learned to drive a tractor if you don't feel safe turn it off and walk away.
not hard to shut it off as the M had a push button kill switch.
 
My wife loves her 640. My favorite
tractor is a 960. My dad loves his old N.
Tractors are as safe as you are........



cvphoto43716.jpg


cvphoto43717.jpg

Nothing wrong with buying an old Ford!
All the extras are nice but the old ones
work too...........
 
I wish you were in Michigan,you could come and drive my 1950 8N and try. One out. Mines not for sale. It also has an over rideing clutch on it and they are ready available at TSC stores and others. I'll admit that it is not as modren as a 3000 Ford with power steering and other assesories,but just a very basic tractor. And some cheaper than a latter model Ford. I Bush hog with it also with no push with over rideing clutch. Now plowing snowwith it.wish I knew how close you were.
 
(quoted from post at 11:45:37 12/04/19) Welcome to the forums and thank you for
your service.
I'm a Ford man. Grew up on an Allis B
and a Case DC3. Don't buy one of those.
Dont buy an N Series or Jubilee/NAA
either. And Don't buy a Select O Speed.
Just Don't!
The Hundred Series were better. Had a
lot more refinements and options.
Better yet are the three cylinder
Thousand Series. A 3000 is an
outstanding model. Plenty of power in a
short, low to the ground, (read stable)
nimble package. Lots of options
available on them. Reliable, long lived,
Easy to find parts for - both new and
used. Not hard or complicated to work
on.
I've owned probably 25 three cylinder
Fords. Bought, fixed, sold, parted out,
scrapped, swapped etc.
2000s, 3000s, 4000s plus some industrial
derivitives of those models.
Owned several Ns and Hundreds along the
way too.
Have 3 tractors now. Two 4000s and a
3000. I've gone over to all diesel but
still like and respect the gassers.
Someday I'll go the way of all men and
my tractors will go to others.
The tractor that I like the most, and
use the most, the one I'll keep the
longest, the one they'll have to pry
from my cold dead fingers is my 3000.
It is just a great, small tractor!
Are those front weights factory? I have a set of them and could never figure out what they were for.
<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto43674.jpg">
Click to expand...
 
I didnt even think about trying to find a manual for something that old ...glad you said that. Usually the first thing I bug is a maintenance manual. So with the early PTO system... does that mean the pto is only powered with the rear wheels through the diff? Or in other words, would the pto work as a power/drive source if it's in neutral or parked? Or do you have to be moving?
Click to expand...

Manuals are easy to find online. Worst case a used original will pop up on ebay but for something as common as any of the tractors you've mentioned, reprints are widely available.

The PTO will work stationary on the earlier tractors because it is driven off the transmission.
 
Long/Farmtrak in the 30-60hp range were
either rebadged Ford, or built from Ford
tooling moved to India, and many parts
still interchange, Sandy Lake Implement was
who I was getting farmtrak parts from. The
later ones came with rops, too, and dual-
stage clutch.
 
(quoted from post at 12:03:49 12/08/19) Long/Farmtrak in the 30-60hp range were
either rebadged Ford, or built from Ford
tooling moved to India, and many parts
still interchange, Sandy Lake Implement was
who I was getting farmtrak parts from. The
later ones came with rops, too, and dual-
stage clutch.
Click to expand...

T in ne, Ford never bought tractors from Long. Farmtrac did a good job of copying Ford color and styling.
 
Read my statement about rebadged Ford tractors again.

When fiat bought ford and case, that line
was sold to Long, they moved the tooling to
India, where the tractors are still built
today.
 
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