Bought a couple plows

Got a nice 1 bottom ford plow.





And a ford sub soiler.



$125 for the pair

Good deal!! It looks like you have some work to do. How is the bottom of the share?

Good buy Kevin.

2nd one is a subsoiler to break up the hardpan for better drainage. Looks like it's been used.

Very good deal.
I bought a new subsoiler that looks like that about 20 years ago and paid $125 for it.
I like to use it in the garden about every 2 years to break up hardpan.
I have also put in lots of waterline with it.
Both black PVC and hard white PVC.
Richard, Yo NW SC friend

Share is in good shape. Tail wheel is
really nice.

Every few years I run a subsoiler around the wood edges to keep the tree roots from drawing the moisture and fertilizer from the crops. I hook it to the old 9N because it doesn't have enough traction to break anything.

Sorry to jump in and change the subject...

The first picture shows a mower deck behind the plow. It looks the front mount on a Hustler, but I guess it could be a 3 point read mount finishing mower. Anyway, what is the vertical white attachment over the belt guards? The actual guards I understand but that piece goes up quite high?

Always interested in your pictures, thanks for posting, Grant

(quoted from post at 08:29:22 11/29/19) Sorry to jump in and change the subject...

The first picture shows a mower deck behind the plow. It looks the front mount on a Hustler, but I guess it could be a 3 point read mount finishing mower. Anyway, what is the vertical white attachment over the belt guards? The actual guards I understand but that piece goes up quite high?

Always interested in your pictures, thanks for posting, Grant

Click to expand...

CBBC, look really close at the white housing and you will see the black plastic cover of the PTO shaft coming from the front, with the coupling lying on the ground. The white cove would contain the large pulley and belt at the top and small pulley at the bottom.

Video of that mower running.
I think my mom shot this shakey video.....
Untitled URL Link

The last one I have seen one that look a lot like it but had a metal tube behind the point that was used to lay plastic water pipe in the ground with. It is also good for working in area with a lot for rocks to drag them up to the surface. I have area where it would come in handy

Woods finish mowers did not utilize a 90 degree gear box. They put a big pulley on a horizontal shaft from tractor and the belt followed pulleys out to the vertical blade spindles.-------------------Loren

Thanks guys. Makes sense now. The belt turns through a 90
degree direction change from horizontal on the pto shaft
pulley to the vertical spindle pulleys.

Kevin, that is an excellent buy !!! I can tell by the leading edge on the moldboard plow, appears to have like new or very good condition share and shin. You can easily tell if they are worn as they won't project far enough beyond the frog/standard, and that is what will wear next. Wear parts are available for this plow.

The 101 Ford plow is a very nice plow, it's trip back protected, vs shear bolt, (though I have run my shear bolt protected Ford 110 in rocky conditions and never sheared a bolt, only roots seem to cause that to happen). Adjusted properly, it should pull very nicely and I would bet you'll master the use of it easily. My 110 does a very nice job, pulls like it's not ever there. I have yet to master the 101 2 bottom plow, close but need to get both plows taking an even bite and turn it over correctly consistently. I have taken video while plowing and have seen where it was close, but cannot top the single bottom yet. It's in the adjustment and it seems I cannot let the top link out far enough to level it even though I have done so with an 8" block under a wheel on flat pavement.

Wire wheel off the rust, flap disk it, then have at it in the soil, hopefully you have some abrasive soil down there, otherwise you'll want to clean and polish further. I paint mine when done to keep it from rusting, lasts for years outside. There is a grease Zerk for the trip back mechanism, you may want to check that out, see how it trips, make sure it works. Check the wear on the landside, they wear significantly too, cannot see the bottom of it in the photo. The tail wheel should relieve pressure on the bottom of the landside, but they eventually wear. I rebuilt a 2 bottom version of this for just under $200 in '12, shins, shares, and landsides with all new bolts and I did coat the bolts heavily with anti seize.

I have the same subsoiler, later one in blue paid $125 for it 10 years ago, bought it with the 110 plow from the same guy. I've never used it as it is NOS. I also have another 110 plow that was used 1 time, they found they had ledge rock, broke the tip of the share off, never used it again. Yours looks like the reversible wear shank tooth has only been worn on one side yet, the main shank does not seem to show a lot of wear. The weather seems to have worn both these more than anything else, must be that humid air. Another great implement, that is shear bolt protected as well. Be careful with it, no ROPS/Seatbelt on your tractors, believe these take grade 2 bolts which should shear easily if you hit an obstruction. I think I have a manual for it in my stash, just a 1 or 2 page sheet.

Sounds like you are trying to do with the top link what you are supposed to do with the crank on the right hand side lift arm.

Now you just need to find the coulter that belongs on that plow to get it to do a good job using less power and wearing the moldboard less.

Maybe, I've changed the settings there too, see how it works, adjust it again. This adjustment seems to angle into the furrow wall more or less depending on the position of the lever. Funny thing about this plow, it looks like it was run on it's nose before I got it and put new wear parts on. Last time I used it, I was not far off, but still off enough that there is something I am missing. Be great to get it aligned and adjusted the way it should and know that my draft control works properly on the tractor.