White 2-105 eng alignment

Would anyone be able to tell me how to do engine alignment on a white 2-105 I bought the tractor with a broken crankshaft I put a new one in it and overhaul the engine but I was reading in my manual and it said you had to realign the engine if crankshaft was replaced it had no shims when i pulled the Motor out so was wondering how you know how many you need to add any advice would be greatly appreciated

Are they talking about line boring it again?

believe they are talking about the chain connector behind bell housing. make sure the engine clutch shaft is matching the trans. input shaft for the same alignment. the engine can be raised or lowered with shims.

No shims that go on front motor mounts

no, you would line bore before installing crankshaft. which he should have done. don't know.

White 2-105 does not use a chain coupler like earlier models did.

got to be some kind of connection then?

Uses a splined coupling in place of the double chain.

I won't be close to a manual until late tonight for the spec but the procedure calls for setting the engine and O/U into the frame and allowing the engine to rest on the rear mounts and hang by the trunion at the trans. Then measure the gap between the front engine mounts and tractor frame.This is where I don't remember the spec but you add something like .020" to the measured gap and that is the required shim pack thickness. The shims must be measured for each side. The only time I have had problems with Whites method is if someone put the engine in with out shims and it has wore the top of the trunion mount on the O/U and main Trans the engine will hang lower on the front than it should and you have to add a little thicker shim. I hope this is clear and I will Look up the spec tonight.

I've done shaft alignments on industrial equipment and marine prop shaft to engine alignment.

I'm sure it would be the same concept, it involves using dial indicators to adjust the axial and angular positions to achieve proper alignment.

It's not easy, often there is not room to get the indicator in position. Achieving perfect alignment is not going to happen. That's why nearly every application uses some type coupling to compensate for alignment error and frame flex under load.

I would suggest a shop manual and follow the mfg recommendation, or go on Youtube and study the concept.

Getting it wrong can have serious consequences!

Now not being and Oliver expert here but have worked on some as i did contract work at and old Oliver dealer ship and worked hand in hand with one of the best in the area the fast way and with out the use of dial indicators was with the sue of a (at this dealer ship was the over head chain hoist and a engine leveler and the use of the PTO SHAFT ) . since you have to reinstall the clutch that is the first thing that gets lined up before you put the OVER UNDER on. You already have the PTO drive coupler in place and that sets next to the pilot bearing so it is already lined up for center. . We would hang the engines and set it down in to the frame and get it close and install the PTO shaft getting it thru all the spines and where it just tried to start into the pilot bearing , with the aid of a long 1/2 inch bolt in the ned of the PTO shaft you could FEEL it and adjust accordingly . You have two sizes of engine mounting bolts and they set one big one on one side in the ft. of the engine and one on the back on opposite side and the same with the two smaller ones and with the leveler you can tip forward or back and the chain hoist up or down till the PTO SHAFT jus slides into the pilot bearing and then if needed you can add shims where needed . Plain old fashioned body shims work if needed . My PTO removal and install tool for Olivers is grade 8 1/2 x12 bolt with a big body washer and a piece of 1/2 inch plastic tubing .

Except for the spec. I gave him the OEM manual procedure.

Great thank you

I'm far from being an expert but seems to me the really critical part of engine alignment would be to get the PTO shaft that goes into the flywheel straight with the rest of the tractor.

The spec to add to the measured gap is 0.004" per the white service manual. Measure the gap near the bolt hole so when they are tightened it doesn't pull and change the alignment. The long shaft should slide nice and smooth after the shims are in place.