Kubota fuel injection pump, #1 cyl no fuel

ccaissie · Sep 8, 2019

Yep, the bracket that holds the injection delivery valve housings for #1,2 was evidently loose, so when I removed or installed the line (head replacement), I rotated the delivery valve housing. Evidently I turned it far enough to get it out of the pumping stroke and it's not putting out any
fuel.

So, how to restore this setting? Trial and error? Look for paint/contact marks indicating where it was?

I warmed the engine up on 3 cylinders and will be retorquing the head, changing the oil again, and other stuff, but It would be nice to get this unit running on all 4.

T-190 Bobcat with V2003T engine.

Al Baker(pumpman) · Sep 8, 2019

I type very slowly. I can explain how to do what you need to do if you call me in the PM. Al 231/757/0064

Dieseltech · Sep 8, 2019

If it has the late cast iron Denso pump it needs to come off. The late pumps have NO barrel locating pins to keep them from turning, and can only be set correctly on the test cam box on the test bench..

ccaissie · Sep 9, 2019

I'm interested. My bit of research suggests that by finding a way to gauge the delivery on that cyl it could be set pretty close.

As long as there's no likelihood of damage from my letting it twist a bit. I don't think it moved by more than 10-20 degrees...

Some sort of relation with the timing marks and drip or appearance of fuel...determining start of injection
Running it and adjusting to get even power drop when cracking lines..

It is a later Denso pump if I remember seeing the tag before putting the intake manifold on. dieseltech says it has to go on the bench...of course that would be the perfect ideal method...

But I will certainly call you this evening at the number you list. What is your preferred time? I will call at 8 p.m.EDT if I don't hear otherwise

ccaissie · Sep 10, 2019

Thanks for the conversation last night. I'm staring at the pump now, and I am now not sure how I am to locate the port you described.

I attach a pic of the pump.

I prepared the pump area and took lines off, and pulled glow plugs to ease turning it. I also removed the intake manifold so I could access and see the pump. When I crank it, I get good squirts from #2,3,4, but # 1 just drools. I notice slight contact marks on the delivery valve holder where it contacted the clamp, and i can see where it was originally in contact...about 20 degrees different.

Before I get digging into the works, I will have you look at the picture to establish the pump model, and talk further. I also may rotate the valve holder of #1 back to where it looks like it came from, and see if I get a squirt from #1 vs a drool. If I get a squirt, I'll reassemble...it needs a head retorque anyway now that it has run on the new head and gasket...check the valve lash, etc then run it.

ccaissie · Sep 10, 2019

Resolved.

With the injector lines off, I cranked the engine and got spurts from 2,3,4. I turned the Delivery Valve Holder back to where some old clamp marks lined up. I noticed that it really wouldn't turn any further anyway... felt like there was a stop of some kind in there.

Rolled the engine and it spurts, and it seemed to spurt exactly as high as the others. What the heck. Finished retorquing the head, readjust valves, reassemble and voila it runs really well. I checked the exhaust manifold heat with my hand as it warmed up and all cylinders heated about equally. All done. YMMV.

Thanks for the advice and encouragement.

Kubota fuel injection pump, #1 cyl no fuel

ccaissie

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Al Baker(pumpman)

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Dieseltech

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ccaissie

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ccaissie

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ccaissie

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