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4play one more ?

J

JimS

Member
The water pump is far easier than either that oil line or the heater core. It looks like an after market pump on there. One of the bolts was very loose. It appears as though gasket cement had been used.

I assume gasket cement is not advised nor needed if the surface is appropriately clean, correct? I will clean the bolts, which I saved in pattern, and torque them to 11 ft lbs, as the manual states, no loctite needed, correct? Would I be smart to replace the thermostat even though it is not a problem?

By the way, I am replacingwith OEM.
Thanks again.
 
As long as it has not been overheated, and the thermostat is the correct one, and shows no sign of damage, it can be reused.

No gasket sealer is needed as long as the surface is in good condition, no gouges from scraping the old gasket off.

If any bolts go through into the water jacket, some silicone on the threads is good insurance.
 
A lot of people use gasket cement, or something just to hold the gaskets on the pump so they don't fall off, I just use the bolts to hold the gaskets. I see a lot of LS water pump leaks at the gaskets, the ones that are silicone/aluminum, I use paper because of this. A couple of the water pump bolts go into the water jackets, some people use a thread sealer but the OEM didn't use it and I don't, no loctite either.

I always replace the thermostat when doing a water pump, for one it's cheap, and would need to be transferred to the new pump anyway, and you will lose half the coolant or more if you have to go back into it later, its your call and an easy repair if done later.
 
there is stuff out there for gaskets. its called Permatex high tack sealer. easily can remove gaskets later. cement definitly no, for me anyway.
 
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