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coolant leak

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I have received very good information on my coolant leak on 1951 farmall c, I just rebuilt engine, however I have seen where I have been told to retorque head nuts again after you let it runs and heat up and could take several times before they won't turn anymore at spec. I just forgot to ask do I let the engine cool before this is done or do I torque them after engine is hot? still get slight seepage at cylinder head to block mating surface and want to try and solve this problem. thanks for your help. greatly appreciated.
 
run it for an hr at operating temperature even cover the rad if you have to. shut down remove valve cover and retorque to spec. then reset the valves. that is why they give the valve setting as hot. don't know why you would be getting seepage if everything was clean and torqued to spec from the start. plus depends what you call a rebuild.? we don't know.
 
Had the same problem on a Farmall B that I overhauled, leaked coolant from between head and block to the outside!!! I ended up taking the head off and having it planed!!!
 
Did you do a valve job or have the head surfaced? Was the block face resurfaced? Also, did you use any sealant on the head gasket like Copper Cote? I had to pull my head and put some Copper Cote on it to get my leak to stop. Now this was with a copper head gasket so I could reuse it, I don't know if you can reuse a normal head gasket.


OTJ
 

I had the same issue with my framall 100, I re-torqued it stopped BUT I was not satisfied so put a felpro head gasket on it and torqued to 90 ft lbs...

I put a new radiator on it when I rebuilt the engine I believe the rad cap was defective letting the pressure build to high... No more than I use it I leave the cap lose..

I have a temp gauge on it, its never heated.. On a 100 a temp gauge is a piece of cake to add a temp gauge to...

BTW I used sealer on the gasket when I rebuilt it sealer was not the issue...
 
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