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I want to raise the mower deck on riding mower

Geo-TH,In

Geo-TH,In

Well-known Member
I'm in need of help from a true redneck engineer. I want riding mower
that will cut 6-9 inches. Which means to raise the mower deck, I need
to lower the wheels.

I think I could take another set of front spindles and weld them on the
original spindles. That would raise up the front end of mower and not
screw up the steering.

The problem is see when lowering the rear axle is connecting the belt
from motor to trans-axle.

Has anyone made a riding mower that mows about 6-9 inches high? A pic
would be great.
 
If you extend the pully shaft upward, you will need to put a mounted bearing on the top end to allow belt tension to be absorbed without stressing the trans case. The front spindles should be reinforced with a "Y" brace like a high crop tractor, or it will fold up and crash. A second good cheap option is to mount a sickle bar on the front.
cvphoto35563.jpg
 
riding mower is not a bush hog/rotary cutter . It will cost less and work better to purchase one of those tow behind rough country cutters that TSC sells .
 
Sir George; have you been rubbing too much of that hemp oil on your forehead???? Why do you want a lawnmower that cuts 9" high. Just lift the 3pt hitch up on your finish mower and mow with that.--------Loren
 
The places I need to move are too small, extremely ruff and steep terrain.

I thought you were a redneck engineer. Looks like I'll need to talk to myself for expert advice.
 
(quoted from post at 18:35:04 09/03/19) The places I need to move are too small, extremely ruff and steep terrain.

I thought you were a redneck engineer. Looks like I'll need to talk to myself for expert advice.
Click to expand...
ardner's is height adjustable over wide range! :)
XtuNYxs.jpg
 
Sir George, all I can say is to look at how tractor companies made high clearance tractors. They built drop boxes with chains inside them, for the rears. They built special front outer axle assys with extended spindles and special wishbones to support them. A lot of fabrication involved, with questionable results in your application. I would also be concerned with stability of the tractor. I would hate to see you tip over. How about a weed eater with a bicycle wheel clamped to the down shaft????----Loren
 
Why not get another mower deck from an old rider, add an engine, and tow it behind you...or maybe push it in front? Could mount the aux. deck on adjustable wheels.
 
Well of course anything is possible buuut, it just is not practical. The factory deck raises what 4"? So you want another 4". My question is why?. If the terrain is more rough then that, you can't drive on it with mower anyhow.
 
George look at the two behind mowers made for ATVs. They will raise that high on some brands. They work fairly well and they are supper easy to sell. everyone is looking for used ones. MY BIL buys a new one every other year and then sells the old one. It only costs him a small amount to have a newer mower with warranty this way. I know he likes the Honda Powered ones but you have had good luck with the Kohler motors so they are a little cheaper.

If you do not like the trailer effect, one of them would not be hard to ridge mount to a garden tractor and install crazy wheels on the back of it. Make it like the old sickle bar mowers, semi mounted with two wheels in the back.
 
Here is what I rigged up many many years ago. Got one of those little snapper rider mowers. These are dirt simple very rugged little machines. I was able to get one size bigger tire on the front and raised the front connection points and raised the deck connection chains too. Needed to do a little rewelding. Got things pretty high. Even put a 2 1/2 gallon cub cadet fuel tank on a frame to increase range and run time. Would mow the electric fence rows with it. Would take most of a day and you needed to trim up with a weed whacker but it was a pretty awesome little machine. You would go all the way up the line and then all the way back. Then repeat. The little 28 inch deck is the best. Make sure the drive belt just clears the top rear of the deck. The front is higher than the rear. Hope you can try it.
https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto35591.jpg
<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto35593.jpg

cvphoto35594.jpg
 
I'm thinking of finding a mower with small wheels. Cut the frame in front of engine. Stretch frame forward to accommodate larger front wheels. Cut he frame behind mower mounts . Stretch frame backwards so I can use bigger rear wheels.

I'll make a stretch mower.

King Loren, is this redneck engineering at its finest? George
 
Well, on Youtube lawnmower racers use a jackshaft between the engine (vertical shaft engine) and the transmission so they can lower the frame around the transmission and still drive the pulley on the top of the transmission.

If that would lower it, why not use a jackshaft in the drive and make lower transmission mounts to raise the frame. One guy I saw used an older Murray lawnmower spindle assembly which uses a straight shaft and the same top pulley can be used fit on the shaft where the blade adapter goes on the bottom. Then you just have to work out the belt lengths.
 
(quoted from post at 22:12:33 09/03/19) Well, on Youtube lawnmower racers use a jackshaft between the engine (vertical shaft engine) and the transmission so they can lower the frame around the transmission and still drive the pulley on the top of the transmission.

If that would lower it, why not use a jackshaft in the drive and make lower transmission mounts to raise the frame. One guy I saw used an older Murray lawnmower spindle assembly which uses a straight shaft and the same top pulley can be used fit on the shaft where the blade adapter goes on the bottom. Then you just have to work out the belt lengths.
Click to expand...
kip all that and just use Roundup and Brushmaster, and you're done! :twisted:
 
This was my solution to needing to cut strips 6 inches high. This is a self propelled push mower we call Monster Mower. The berms outline the operation areas of a model airplane flying field. Now we just cut them with my Hustler zero turn with the deck all the way up. It will cut at about 5 inches.

mvphoto41983.jpg


mvphoto41984.jpg
 
So you want to take a riding lawnmower which is already a fairly narrow machine and make it taller so that you can get it into steep and rough areas? Sounds like your love ones might be asking for prayers in the near future.
 

Why spend more time and money to make some poorly functional home brew hodge podge. When you can use this . https://www.tscstores.com/Trail-Mowers-C816.aspx
 
What if you were to make up a set of bolt on or clamp on duals for front and rear.

The added wheels could be offset enough to clear your sheet metal and mower deck while providing the height you are trying to gain.
 
Dont tell the tall rough looking blond lady 0n tv this but a pump up hand sprayer with water and roundup is safest way to mow steep narrow dangerous places
 

To your question: Raise the front, via longer spindles as you suggested. For the back, leave the trans-axle in place but remove the rear wheels. Mount a new axle below the trans-axle using the removed wheels. Or, use new wheels of the proper diameter with integral bearing hubs - this may be easier. Now mount smaller wheels on the trans-axle which contact and drive the larger wheels. Thereby making a friction drive....the high tech red neck version of bull gears. The friction can be adjusted by varying the tire air pressure and the smaller wheel on the trans-axle allows for a slower travel speed. Since the trans-axle is retained you still have differential action for turning.
 
Why spend more time and money to make some poorly functional home brew
hodge podge.

I can think of 3000 to 6000 reason to make a redneck mower. $3-6K.
 
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