Suburban oil line 4wd

JimS

Member
Has anyone ever replaced the oil cooler lines on a 2000 Suburban 2500 6L 4WD?

I have the factory service manual and it says nothing about disassembling half that truck to do this. To get the old line out and the new one in, it has been suggested either dropping the front axle or raising the engine. Does anyone have any idea? Is it ok to lift slight just one side of the engine? A simple job becomes a nightmare.
 

I had to put a new hydraulic line into a Case tractor out in the field. It had come out in two pieces no problem but no where near room to go back until I jacked one front side up so that the side where the line needed to go was down a couple inches.
 
The front diff is not that hard to remove, I remove them quite a bit for those oil cooler lines or removing the oil pan.
 
I didn't word that right, I don't remove the diff just for the lines, but it would be easier that way, you could probably drop it down and gain a little room too. Remove that plastic splash shield under the radiator and see what you think.
 

Its just a dirty arse job not bad but be prepared to get you daily oil bath..

I like to get everything apart and let it drip overnight... Next day go get it I have never removed the diff for this job... It pays well : )

The diff well its not bad on a lift with a transmission jack that you have made straps to hold the diff to the jack... On the ground in the yard I am not sure I would like it much...

Support your local mechanic : )
 
Thanks. I removed the front axle drive shaft and was able to fish it out. The replacement has more metal tubing than rubber tubing. I don't know if it is just the supplier or not. I will check with Chevy
tomorrow and see if the OEM is more like what I removed. If it is, it should fish in the same way.
 
You wouldn't happen to have an OEMpart number on that line? It's a 2000Suburban 2500, 6.0L 4 WD. I can't seem to find it on Chevy's site.
 
It will wiggle out and back in once you find the sweet spot. Only reason to lower the diff is if the engine mounts are sagged. Side note, use OE lines, DO NOT USE DORMAN, they are trash. The rubber hose on Dorman lines will crack and look 40 years old within a month. I had a near death experience with them on a nice Blazer I installed them on, it came back on a wrecker dripping oil. Talk about a pucker moment, luckily, the lady shut it down in time when it blew apart. I still held my breath until the OE ones were on and it sounded OK.
 

Tug and pull bet a mirror and look make sure they are locked in at the radiator...

On 94 5.7 engine I had one pop out at the engine 2 years later after I installed them... I did not get it locked in good it had plastic locks... The engine was old and tired it had little oil pressure at idle I ran it that way 7/8 years sold it 2 years ago its still going :)....

It popped out at the shop how lucky can you get...
 

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