Lock Tite

Isn't heat suppose to cancel the Lock Tite bond, when applied ?

Ya, heat is about the only was to loosen it ,especially if it was red Loctite.

It releases around 500F.

A point worthy of adding! Heating the fastener to the temp is profoundly better than attempting to get the body of the parts to that temp. Metal heat treatment is failing at 500 degrees. Jim

Red Loctite releases at 500 degrees but blue Loctite releases at 250 degrees.

I've never really put a thermometer to it, just heat and try until it lets go.

Also the smell is a good indicator it ready.

(quoted from post at 07:50:13 08/25/19) Red Loctite releases at 500 degrees but blue Loctite releases at 250 degrees.

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I've never needed heat of any kind to get blue loctite to release.

(quoted from post at 16:04:54 08/25/19)

(quoted from post at 07:50:13 08/25/19) Red Loctite releases at 500 degrees but blue Loctite releases at 250 degrees.

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I've never needed heat of any kind to get blue loctite to release.

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Same with the red stuff.

If the fasteners are good-quality and you have a good wrench on 'em, simply break 'em loose like any other bolt or nut, takes more force, but not typically an issue.

Never had blue turn loose and it was the standard at work. Additionally it's made for accessing at a later date and the same tools you used for assembly work for disassembly with no heat, penetrating oil or anything. Red is made for permanent bonding and since blue works, no need to deal with it.

My son was working on a big Wishek disk,it has a 2 15/16 nut for a gang bolt but, he tried it with a LP cutting tip for heat, and a truck tire air wrench, nothing fazed it, had to cut it off,with two cuts on the nut it took still many hits with a 3 lb hammer to get the each half of the nut off! That was good Lock-Tite.

I could hear locktite pop when it was heated. We used the red in the factory, blue wasn?t stocked.

(quoted from post at 17:56:46 08/25/19) My son was working on a big Wishek disk,it has a 2 15/16 nut for a gang bolt but, he tried it with a LP cutting tip for heat, and a truck tire air wrench, nothing fazed it, had to cut it off,with two cuts on the nut it took still many hits with a 3 lb hammer to get the each half of the nut off! That was good Lock-Tite.

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GOOD for you, if you believe that a little dab of "plastic glue" can lock steel parts together that tightly.

That's just SILLY, in my experience.

Loctite keeps stuff from shaking loose, but if you get serious about it with REAL tools it's only a slight inconvenience.

(Let the flaming begin!)

It's not flaming when it comes from folks who turn wrenches on construction equipment, rebuild cylinders, etc, for a living. In fact, it's just a fact of life for us.

That said, apparently you've never encountered a fastener that has been cleaned, had the right thread locker for the correct diameter applied, and then torqued properly....(and God forbid some idiot uses green retaining compound on anything threaded)...... Not only do they not 'shake loose' they don't come loose without a concerted effort, and often heat, just as others have stated.

Personally I've put my 1" drive IR impact (fed by a 75 CFM compressor pushing 150 psi) on 3/4 diameter fasteners and they didn't move. I followed up with a long handled 1" drive pull handle, with a cheater pipe, and they still didn't move....until I heated them.

I've also had nuts that you'd think would come loose with REAL tools, as you put it, twist off the bolt they were on, before breaking loose.

I've used my hydraulic torque wrench to break loose cylinder nuts that had retaining compound used on them, and were then torqued to 3000 ftlb. by the factory. I have a pressure guage, and chart, that I can use to tell what torque I'm applying to the fastener. I've topped my wrench out at 12,000 ftlbs, without the nut moving......If that happens, I'll heat it to loosen the thread locker. When I do that, it will typically break loose around 4000 ftlbs. Is that REAL enough for you?

Fasteners stay tight due to the friction occurring between the male and female threads. Locking style fasteners use a distortion of the fastener, or a 'plastic' locking ring, to raise the amount of friction, therefore the amount of force necessary to remove them. Applied properly to clean mating surfaces, retaining compounds step that up a notch, or two, by essentially turning the entire surface area of the fastener into a 'plastic' ring. They do that by filling in any space that may occur between the two surfaces. This raises the friction requirement to break them loose enough that it's not uncommon to have to use heat to get them break loose.

Again, this isn't meant to be a flame, I'm just relating facts. However if you are feeling burned, I'd suggest you spend more time listening to us guys who have 'been there and do that for a living' before you speak again and sound as silly as you think thread lockers are.

Wayne, what do you think I do for a living, build bird houses, maybe?

I am VERY familiar with getting threads clean and using Loctite, green Loctite, and Loctite primer, as well.

I don't deal with HUGE fasteners, 1-1/4" is about the largest threads I commonly deal with, and I simply haven't ever had to heat one to loosen cured Loctite.

If you are dealing with threads larger than that, it may well be another story, I can't vouch for that.

'Course there aren't many common applications of threads larger than that using Loctite, on the topic of this webpage "Yesterday's Tractors! thread!

(quoted from post at 11:05:08 08/25/19) Isn't heat suppose to cancel the Lock Tite bond, when applied ?

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You should go tot he Loc-tite site and read up on what the different types are used for and what they do.

In the end, rust is the best "loc-tite" I've run across! :lol: