Brake bleeding

Olliejunkie · Aug 22, 2019

I have a manx bug. I put a new master cylinder on. 3 ports..2 are plugged. Trying to bleed it with the other line. Finger over end...pump it...let air out...pump again. Piston comes up to top and sticks with open line. I dont get it. I tried bleeding it with all 4 brakes hooked up first but was doing the same thing. Disconnected front brakes and replaced rear slave cylinders. Still did it. Figured I had collapsed lines so removed them. One was collapsed. That's when I tried bleeding at the line that goes to rear. Dont know where my bench bleed kit is so I guess I will buy one even though I have never needed one. Anyone had this problem?

caterpillar guy · Aug 22, 2019

Had to replace the master cylinder on one of the Stiegers and would not bleed till I took the line off the master and held my finger over it as somebody push the pedal down after that it would bleed quite well.

Olliejunkie · Aug 22, 2019

This one is strange cuz it acts like it has good pedal with lines open.

Mutt and Jeff · Aug 22, 2019

Adjust the brakes to full lock up. Just sitting there adjust till so tight the wheels will not turn

pump the pedal a few times and adjust them again to full lock

pump the pedal again and adjust them again if not still totally locked. repeat as many times as required to maintain full lock, thus
indicating the shoes have centered and need no excessive travel to "eatup"(pedal travel) for any attempt to bleed.

Now with shoes fully locked to drum do your bleeding procedure

I say back off shoes only 3 clicks each the drag will be tremendious. Do not fret after the first run around the block they will have
scuffed off enough and be almost without any drag.

Bug brakes need periodic adjustments, before it takes a second pump or you crash into something on the first application..

Olliejunkie · Aug 22, 2019

I have no pedal travel with open lines. Master cylinder is acting fishy.

Janicholson · Aug 22, 2019

Look to see if the strut that pushes the piston is out of place. There should be no way the pedal should stick. Bleed the cylinder from the port closest to the
pedal first. Then toward the far end. The center "port" may be a sensor port. Jim

MarkB_MI · Aug 22, 2019

"Manx bug" = Meyers Manx = dune buggy?

Many master cylinders come with plugs for bench bleeding. With the outlets plugged, it's usually possible to get all the air out of the cylinder, IF it's at the right angle. Not sure about VW masters, but many master cylinders won't bleed on the vehicle because the angle is wrong.

When all else fails, you can try reverse bleeding. I have a Phoenix Systems bleeding tool for that purpose.
Phoenix V5

Olliejunkie · Aug 22, 2019

Yep. Meyers type manx. Bought a bleeder kit and pressure still builds pressure. Guess I will have to pull it off. I have work on bugs for 40 years and never had this problem. I'm done until it gets back in the shade and my brain has had a break. Thanks for the help so far.

Olliejunkie · Aug 22, 2019

I took it off turned it on end and was able to get it to move. It seems to have a lot of spring pressure. Then I put it level and I could still push the plunger in.
So I put it back on and the pedal is clear to the top. Wont go in with line open. Back off tomorrow or I will just pull the engine and put in my other one. Drag it to the back and let the weeds grow. Pita trying to do everything alone.

Janicholson · Aug 23, 2019

Look for pedal pushrod issues. Jim

Olliejunkie · Aug 23, 2019

Pedal and plunger move freely and are OEM. I didnt work on it today .

Brake bleeding

Olliejunkie

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caterpillar guy

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Olliejunkie

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Mutt and Jeff

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Olliejunkie

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Janicholson

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MarkB_MI

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Olliejunkie

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