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gotmyfarm!

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I noticed some water this morning in the low spot under the eave of the barn. Only in one spot, kind of odd. Well, I just found out what the wet spot is. My big tractor tire is leaking calcium stuff right out of the air filler valve! At the base. I thought maybe it is loose and so I went to turn it to tighten it and now it is way worse!!! What do I do??? Is it going to explode? I hate tires! Is it safe to drive out of the barn and position it so the valve is on top?
 
Get a jack under it and get the valve up top. Then pull it out and see if another stem will fix it. I got my fingers crossed for you !
Got water near so you can hose the building down ?
 
You stand a bout a 99% chance it will not explode. Only time one will explode is if the tire has hole in it and the tube is sticking out of the hole. I would jack it up and spin the tire till the stem is at the top and then remove to core and replace the old core with new core
 
unless it is already really flat, definately move it so the stem is up, then depending upon the valve, you may be able to unscrew the fitting and replace the fitting and the valve as one piece, or you may have
to get a Schroeder valve removal tool and a new valve, hopefully you can unscrew the old valvve and install a new one. it won't explode, unless the tire is really flat, at that point I would try to add air
before moving it so you won't ruin the tire.
 
A core? I don't know what a core is. A valve stem core? I don't have Cores lying all around. Won't all the air come rushing out like a bullet?
 
once the stem is at the top it should stop spewing chloride, and yes the air will come out, it may blow the existing stem out if you get it loose, at that point let it blow down, then put in the new one and
air it back up.
 
If you have a Tractor Supply store they have them on a board with other tire stuff,the board will say Slime and be a odd color green.Move the tractor so the valve is at the top and jack it up for now that will help stop the leak.
 
That cal is nasty stuff. About every three
years I park the tractor with the stem at
12 o'clock. Unscrew the little stem core
and install a new on. Have had a couple
where they actually get disolved and start
leaking. If the stem is bad then it is pull
the tire tube time. Crazy...go on EBay and
get a babyfood jar worth of them.
 
Again
cvphoto33406.jpg
 
It'll be alright until you can go and get a valve core at TSC or a tire place.Be careful screwing out the valve core so it doesn't twist the stem off at the tube.
 
Some glossary terms:

The "stem" is the part of the tube that protrudes from the wheel where air/calcium is put in the tube. It is part of the tube itself.

The "core" is the tiny valve screwed inside the stem. You can see the end of it when the cap is removed.


You say it is leaking at the base of the stem. That means a core will not fix it.

Chances are the stem has pulled out of the tube. Or, there is a leak elsewhere in the tube and the air has found it's way out around the stem where it comes through the wheel.

Either way, the tire will need to be drained, (save the cal if it's going back in), the tube removed and replaced or repaired.

It's not going to explode, especially if it's gone flat.

If you've never broken down a tractor tire, best get some help. It's quite a job. Look on Youtube, you;ll see how it's done.
 
Thanks for responding, everybody. Thanks for the glossary, Steve! I just got off the phone with a mobile tractor tire guy, the one who put these tires on, and he said it needs new tubes. Calcuim probably ate through the seam at the stem area or could be a hole somewhere else from rim. Anyway, he can come out to fix on Friday. I'm choosing to take both tires off (the other has a small leak I see, weird this all happened at once) and he will pump calcium stuff into my plastic barrels and wash off rims and put on new tubes WITHOUT the calcium. I'll have it onhand in barrels in case I ever change my mind. Hope tractor does ok without all that liquid weight. Mostly just running rake and baler with it now. Don't plan on discing any time soon. And some brush hogging sometimes. Think that'll be ok?
 
!00 % it will not explode. Tire probably has at most 10 psi air. Check with your tire gage and reduce to 7 or less.
Again, the STEM is the protrusion molded onto the inner tube. That's what you see sticking through small hole in the steel wheel. Has a plastic threaded cap on it (Lefty loosy) and under the cap inside the stem is the little core.
 
(quoted from post at 12:42:36 08/14/19) She needs the whole valve stem not just the core.
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I'm following this discussion because this is how my wheel looks right now. Been that way for some time, and yes it's leaking something. I thought replacing the valve stem would do the trick, but that would mean the tire has no tube, correct? Also, if I recall, the stem is replaced by pulling it through the rim from the outside--it gets inserted on the tire side then pulled through. Sounds like a job for the specialists who deal with big rubber donuts. I just hope the rim can be saved. The situation isn't getting any better.
mvphoto41131.jpg
 
[quote="RedMF40" oh, that is really rusty. You'd better get that rubber doughnut guy over ASAP. Mine wasn't even looking that bad at all and now look at it. Over night something just broke loose and was flowing like a river. These tubes and tires were brand new a year or two ago. I might consider just getting rid of the calcuim that he pumps out instead of storing it. I don't think I want that stuff wrecking my rims and tubes again. I'm actually looking forward to not having liquid in there to see the difference in handling and to get rid of that sloshy feeling. Happens sometimes when I stop and the liquid in there is rocking back and forth and is annoying. My daughter and I were just thinking a month or two ago how fun it would be to have a nice restaurant booth in the diningroom. You can do a post of your finished booth nook.
 
I had to replace both rear tubes on my 4020 last year. The valve stems were rotten but the tube brass
was rotten too. Bummer. So, I tossed the calcium and started all over. I had a tire guy change one out 2
years earlier and I think he double mixed the calcium for good measure. Ate right thru the brass. I spent
8 hours, most of it pumping fluid.
 
Well the replacement part that screws into the tractor tube is called a Core by the Slime company that sells them,then there is a valve inside the core.Terminology is confusing since tractor tubes have an extra removable part.
 
there are valve stems that go in from the outside , then you turn a nut and it expands, if you need more I can put up a pic
 

I don't like the idea of fluid in there, just causes problems as far as I can tell. I have 900 lbs of ballast I can put on back if need be. Sometimes necessary because the loader makes the rear light. Fortunately the other rim is dry as a bone but if there's fluid in both I am draining it all out. Since I'm in a heavily agricultural area I should have a few tire places to choose from. Don't know what the cost will be but I'm prepared for sticker shock. Oh well, needs to be done. Yes I'll post pics of the finished kitchen nook and all the demolition and before and after, because I like how spaces are transformed from one thing to another--thanks for asking. Just want it to be done, but it won't be tomorrow that's for sure. Or the day after!
 

Red MF40, you can reduce the damage a little by blocking it up so that once the pressure is out no more air will go out. That way you are not feeding the rusting process so much.
 

It appears you have a tube with a TR218 stem in that tire. gotmyfarm! likely has the same. It looks like the rim nut on the stem is plastic. That is just to hold the tube in place. Most tubeless valve stems for tractor (equipment) rims would have a metal nut with a washer under it to compress the rubber seal on the valve stem, not the pull through rubber ones used for cars. The TR218 tube stem has a core housing screwed in it and the core (like the core in most tubes) is inside the housing. The core housing is removed to facilitate the adding or subtraction of ballast. While you can replace stems on tubes, I don't think it is worthwhile. Replace the tube.


mvphoto41142.jpg




mvphoto41143.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 04:33:09 08/15/19)

Thanks everyone for the good advice and sorry gotmyfarm! to piggyback on your post but the two problems look to be about the same. I've held off on asking anything because I figured I wouldn't like the answers. I'll get a tire professional involved because yes I may be able to make a DIY repair but my main concern is saving the rim and hopefully a tire person will know what they're looking at and tell me one way or another. I haven't tried to clean up the rust or anything like that because I figure that's all that's holding that whole valve stem area together at the moment. Thanks again,
Gerrit in Maryland
Click to expand...
 
Gerrit, glad the guys could help you, too! As far as piggybacking or hijacking or whatever it's called to someone's post, I know I, for one, reallyreally don't care if that happens. Do people really get upset about that or something? I see it as a conversation and conversations sometimes drift into other conversations. No problem with that! Really feeling like I'm missing a leg or a hand knowing my favorite tractor is out for the count. Just like when a car or truck is down.
 
(quoted from post at 07:06:15 08/15/19) Gerrit, glad the guys could help you, too! As far as piggybacking or hijacking or whatever it's called to someone's post, I know I, for one, reallyreally don't care if that happens. Do people really get upset about that or something? I see it as a conversation and conversations sometimes drift into other conversations. No problem with that! Really feeling like I'm missing a leg or a hand knowing my favorite tractor is out for the count. Just like when a car or truck is down.
Click to expand...

Ya I'm ok with ppl drifting off into other conversations because they're usually more interesting than whatever I originally posted. I have no problem with that, either. Some ppl seem to be sensitive about that. I don't want to be without my Massey especially since she does a lot of heavy lifting. I'll find out about tire service ppl today. Hope they can fix the issue, clean up the rim and I'll be back in business.
 
If you do want to remove the fluid and run without it then NEW tubes would be needed to get it all gone. Otherwise there will always be a little left in there to corrode things again.
 
Either way use new tubes, it's not worth risking another leak from a reused tube for the cost of thoroughly cleaning, checking, and repairing a tube that had calcium in it vs downtime and labor (especially if a shop is doing it). The bigger issue is getting the rim cleaned of the calcium residue. Wash with hot soapy water, sandblast bare, repair rim if needed, wash, wire brush pits, wash, rinse a lot, and let dry. Coat with a good primer, some use a rust converter first, then top coat. Maybe you will get it all, no guarantee. It is a salt so it is not a case of using something else to neutralize it. JMHO
 
Quick update on tire. New tube installed this morning, told the tire guy to leave the fluid out. Rim was very dry, just a little surface rust. As some suggested, a new valve stem/core or whatever the terminology is would have solved the problem but I still would have wondered about the condition of the rim and what was going on in there. Shop charges $70/hr from time they leave the shop until they return. Glad they were fairly close by.

mvphoto41181.jpg


mvphoto41182.jpg
Click to expand...
 
[quote="RedMF40"
That's good! Look at all that brown liquid. I'm not going to keep my liquid. I'm going to let the tire guy have it back. He's supposed to be here today to do new tubes and get liquid out, but it has been raining heavy all night and so far all day. Wonder if that will matter. So you only did one tire or both?
 
(quoted from post at 08:38:24 08/16/19)
I did the one tire and he told me how to drain the other tire if I want to. He didn't have a way to reclaim the fluid and take with him, so I kept it and will find a way to dispose of it safely. Tasted a bit on tip of tongue, very salty with a slightly chemical taste. Rinsed well after. Don't plan to make it my breakfast drink! Good luck with your tires, hope your shop charges less than mine!
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 

Yes, I wanted to see if it was salty since everyone talks about calcium chloride in tires which should give a salty taste. I DID NOT ingest any and I was not crazy about putting a dab on tip of my tongue either but I'm still alive and don't plan to make it regular part of my diet! Might make good weed-killer for gravel driveway, I'll see how to get rid of it. Probably another topic for this forum!
 
That's done. Two new tubes and calcium gone. My bill was $457. Two and half hours labor at $80/hr, plus tubes and tax. The worse tire, the metal that attaches to the rubber tube was green and rusted trough. Other one was still there but may have been leaking a little there.
Finally ordered the parts needed for the Farmall M conversion to 12V, and all new wiring. Hope I got all the parts I need.
Kitchen drain is blocked all the way under the floor. That is my biggest dilemma now. Been working at it for three days. I'm going to have to change my tactics. Or maybe, I think I need a pool boy to unclog the drain, do the dishes, cook a good meal, and mow the lawn.
 
(quoted from post at 14:16:20 08/16/19) That's done. Two new tubes and calcium gone. My bill was $457. Two and half hours labor at $80/hr, plus tubes and tax. The worse tire, the metal that attaches to the rubber tube was green and rusted trough. Other one was still there but may have been leaking a little there.
Finally ordered the parts needed for the Farmall M conversion to 12V, and all new wiring. Hope I got all the parts I need.
Kitchen drain is blocked all the way under the floor. That is my biggest dilemma now. Been working at it for three days. I'm going to have to change my tactics. Or maybe, I think I need a pool boy to unclog the drain, do the dishes, cook a good meal, and mow the lawn.
Click to expand...
 

Well, I thought I'd written something above, but guess I didn't get around to the actual writing part! Sorry. Sounds like you could use a pool boy, even if you don't have a pool. But if you do, even better. Looks like the charges out where you live were comparable to what I paid. Maybe they charge from when they actually get to your place and ask for a slightly higher hourly rate. Guy on the phone quoted me $70/hr didn't bother to tell me that starts from when they leave the shop. Needed to be done, so I'm glad it's out of the way. Tractor is much happier on tires that hold air.

For your sink, sounds like maybe you have to take some things apart if possible. Or rent one of those un-cloggers commonly called "snakes." When I redid my bathroom, I ran the drain in a different way and it solved a chronic backup/slow drain problem. Also the drain had a slight leak underneath and it's ok now since everything's new. My tendency lately has been to go "nuclear" on these repairs, since I am thinking more often than not there's a problem that can't be solved long-term with just an immediate fix. Are you on septic system? Grey water going into septic tank or diverted somewhere else? Or do you know? Grey water (if you don't know) would be anything from sinks or washer or bath but not the toilet). Can you find a cleanout location in the line outside? That might help. You might post this problem under "tales" since a lot of knowledgeable people are there.
 
No, don't have a pool!
I know right where it's clogged. Along, straight pipe about 15+' long under the kitchen floor, in the basement ceiling. I've had the pipes under the sink taken apart for days and have been pouring vinegar and sometimes baking soda and boiling water and "plunging" it with a turkey baster, hoping it would dissolve a little and break loose. No, isn't loose. I can feel right where it is if I pour hot water in the pipe and go in basement and feel where the pipe suddenly gets cold. I was putting off buying a snake because how often do you need a pipe snake, like hardly ever, so I hate to have one lying around in the way. I think I'll cut the pipe and put a clean out spot in there since it's so long of a pipe. Probably won't need the snake then, if I cut right after the blockage.
 
Probably won't need the snake then, if I cut right after the blockage.[/quote]

It's good you have access to it in the basement--that makes the job MUCH easier. I was imagining a crawl space which is hellish.
 
Growdey to the max. Gag me with a spoon. I am covered in kitchen drainpipe sludge. I just had to take the whole 15' pipe off. It was full of slime the whole length. I'm not cleaning that out. New pipe is what is happening.I got the stuff down my arms, or should I say up my arms with my hands having to be overhead, and down the insides of my shirt. There was still liquid being held in there by sludge. Yes, it's plastic. No, I doubt it has 1/4 per foot. I'll go down and measure tomorrow. I'm done down there for tonight. Yuck. Blocked off the open end I made so vapors don't come up through it. Grey water goes down with sewer water same place a holding tank near house. Agh, time for a hose down for me!
 
(quoted from post at 18:33:03 08/16/19) Growdey to the max. Gag me with a spoon. I am covered in kitchen drainpipe sludge. I just had to take the whole 15' pipe off. It was full of slime the whole length. I'm not cleaning that out. New pipe is what is happening.I got the stuff down my arms, or should I say up my arms with my hands having to be overhead, and down the insides of my shirt. There was still liquid being held in there by sludge. Yes, it's plastic. No, I doubt it has 1/4 per foot. I'll go down and measure tomorrow. I'm done down there for tonight. Yuck. Blocked off the open end I made so vapors don't come up through it. Grey water goes down with sewer water same place a holding tank near house. Agh, time for a hose down for me!
Click to expand...

Have a good night, you deserve it! :D
 
(quoted from post at 18:33:03 08/16/19) Growdey to the max. Gag me with a spoon. I am covered in kitchen drainpipe sludge. I just had to take the whole 15' pipe off. It was full of slime the whole length. I'm not cleaning that out. New pipe is what is happening.I got the stuff down my arms, or should I say up my arms with my hands having to be overhead, and down the insides of my shirt. There was still liquid being held in there by sludge. Yes, it's plastic. No, I doubt it has 1/4 per foot. I'll go down and measure tomorrow. I'm done down there for tonight. Yuck. Blocked off the open end I made so vapors don't come up through it. Grey water goes down with sewer water same place a holding tank near house. Agh, time for a hose down for me!
Click to expand...

That certainly sounds like lack of pitch, which is not surprising with a 15 foot run. That "holding tank" is your septic tank. Do you get it pumped at least every five years"
 
Certainly, someone here is a more experienced or licensed plumber, so mine is amateur advice only. A fifteen foot run would require nearly a four inch fall to the main line. Assuming your main is suspended below the floor joists and the long run comes down a joist cavity that should be no problem. If the main is up between joists, that makes this much more difficult. You may want to consider upsizing the long run to two-inch from 1.5 inch- that would require a new Y fitting at the main. Replacing the Y provides opportunity to angle it to encourage the slope. Of course, this makes getting the riser through the floor more difficult to keep plumb, unless you move the trap to the basement (usually under the sink). The trap under the sink makes it much easier to hit a hole off center, or to move the pipes back from the middle of the cabinet for better useful storage. A trap in the basement makes cleanup of the long run far easier in the future, and the extra pitch makes this task unnecessary (hopefully).
 
Best to check pitch with a 2 or 3 foot level on the top, or bottom, of the pipe and see how much it drops in the length of the level. That eliminates and pitch and high/low if measuring from the basement floor or floor joists. Check 2 or 3 spots in a run like yours, Hangers may be high or low affecting the pitch as the plastic/PVC pipe can deflect.
 
[quote="K Effective, Yes, having the trap upstairs under the sink sure is nice for a little play in where holes line up. The thing with this line is that it has to go over a doorway so can't move that far side down more, but the start of it under the sink from above could be taken up a bit from where it was, I think. If I' moved the whole line over a few joist bays, that wouldn't work either because instead of a doorway downline, there is a concrete wall dividing the rooms. I'll go look soon. Can't remember if joists are 2X8 or 2X6 or what. If 2X8 then I can get it.
jim.ME, the whole pipe has been taken out of here so I can't use the level on it now! When I get a new pipe I can stick it up there where the old was and level measure it. As you mentioned about deflection, there was a high spot just down pipe from where the block started. It was supported a little to high right there. And then the whole length just was too level and everything stuck in there the whole way.
 
(quoted from post at 09:33:19 08/16/19)
Yes, I wanted to see if it was salty since everyone talks about calcium chloride in tires which should give a salty taste. I DID NOT ingest any and I was not crazy about putting a dab on tip of my tongue either but I'm still alive and don't plan to make it regular part of my diet! Might make good weed-killer for gravel driveway, I'll see how to get rid of it. Probably another topic for this forum!
Click to expand...

Walmart sells little bottles of stuff to use when making dill pickles to keep them crisp. I was looking at the ingredients...you guessed it, calcium chloride!
 
Walmart sells little bottles of stuff to use when making dill pickles to keep them crisp. I was looking at the ingredients...you guessed it, calcium chloride![/quote]

Interesting! I mostly wanted to make sure there wasn't antifreeze in the tires, didn't want to be pouring that on the ground. Antifreeze sweet, calcium chloride salty. Probably other salty things as well, but I think it's safe to pour this on the weedy spots in the driveway. If nothing else, it will keep the weeds crisp!
 
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