CapayMiller
Member
I just acquired what appears to be a nice original 4010 to replace a well-worn 4020 that was incinerated in a wildfire in June.
I'm turning to the wisdom of the crowd for suggestions/recommendations for a couple of questions about my new green machine.
The PO didn't use the hydraulic remotes, and removed one since it was leaking. Unlike my 4020, I'm not finding o-ring or rebuild kits for the 4010 breakaway couplings. What's the consensus on these- rebuild? Replace with 4020 units? Replace with 4020 couplers with ISO barrels? The fire was hot enough to melt the aluminum levers on my 4020's retrofitted ISO couplers- would the heat have distorted the cast housings beyond salvage? Or finally... why can't I just replace the seals in the original 4010 couplers?
The 4010 is also suffering the dreaded right turn lag. I read that it's best to start diagnosis at the steering motor under the fuel tank. My local classic tractor whisperer said to pull the steering valve at the wheel first for him to R&R. Suggestions?
Thanks to all!
I'm turning to the wisdom of the crowd for suggestions/recommendations for a couple of questions about my new green machine.
The PO didn't use the hydraulic remotes, and removed one since it was leaking. Unlike my 4020, I'm not finding o-ring or rebuild kits for the 4010 breakaway couplings. What's the consensus on these- rebuild? Replace with 4020 units? Replace with 4020 couplers with ISO barrels? The fire was hot enough to melt the aluminum levers on my 4020's retrofitted ISO couplers- would the heat have distorted the cast housings beyond salvage? Or finally... why can't I just replace the seals in the original 4010 couplers?
The 4010 is also suffering the dreaded right turn lag. I read that it's best to start diagnosis at the steering motor under the fuel tank. My local classic tractor whisperer said to pull the steering valve at the wheel first for him to R&R. Suggestions?
Thanks to all!