Sorry, Another 12V conversion question

Is this alternator a useful donor for a conversion? Seems like a very common and simple unit. Batt lead and pigtail with a black
and red wire.

Looks like a late 90s CS130? 105 - 105-130 amps? Pretty easy to wire up and use on anything if you want. Harder to work on then the old SI series but it is more modern and more efficient. More amps at lower RPMs.

Change the pulley, wire sa shown in on line diagrams for that model, and it will be fine. Jim

Disregard all this if that is not a CS series Delco, but looks like a CS-130 to me.

Unlike the older Delco SI series, the CS might need a special resistor wired into it to make it work if you don't have a system with a factory idiot-light. Special pigtail connectors are available with the resistor built in. Might be some other work arounds but I forget. I have only used a few CS series for swaps into older stuff.

The CS130 alternators use a four-connection plug; however, for the purposes of a changeover into a vintage car, you will only be using two of the four connections. The connector will be marked ?PLFS? or ?PLIS.?

Depending on the system, you will only be using the ?S? and ?L? or the ?S? and ?I? terminals. ?P? is the phase connection for externally powered accessories, such as a tachometer or hour meter, and can be used as an option. ?L? is the alternator indicator lamp circuit and in some systems will be the ignition connection. ?F? is an external field monitor connection. ?S? is the main power distribution connector. The ?I? connection (when present) is for ignition and connects to the ignition switch (keyed on/off switch).

If you have the PLFS connector, it may be necessary to adapt the ?L? connection. On a charging system with an ?ALT? bulb, you can connect the ignition switch wire directly to the ?L? terminal. If the system does not have an ?ALT? bulb, it is necessary to install a 50 ohm diode in the wire leading to the ?L? terminal. You can purchase a diode and solder it inline or you can purchase a jumper harness with the diode already in it (Delco 8078 or GM # 12102921). This harness has the 10SI connection on one end and the CS130 connection on the other.

I might attempt this on a Moline U. So, Batt. to battery, red on the pigtail to hot with the switch on. What do I do with the black? Just to ground? Thanks

Read the other post where I gave more details. Depends which plug-in harness port you have. One version requires a resistor added.

all of the delco alternators I have put on tractor have been wired with the threaded stud hooked directly to the battery. I then would wire the two wire plug with the number 2 wire looped to the threaded lug. The number 1 terminal on the plug would be the exciter wire and get 12v with the key. It is good practice to have either a diode or a charge light on the exciter wire (number 1) to use up the voltage to prevent the engine from running after shutting off the kill switch. This can happen depending on the switch some can allow voltage to back feed and not only keep the alternator excited but also supply voltage to the coil. The components I have suggested will either use up the voltage (light) or block it (diode) preventing this issue. I suppose your alternator could be a modern type that wires in a manner I'm not familiar with but this should be pretty standard for most units.

So the connector is the PLFS using only the F and L terminals currently. I need the adapter w/resistor then correct? Since I wont have a alt. light.