help with rod bearings

ohiojim

Well-known Member
putting the b back together and haveing trouble with rod bearings to tight. the number on the bearing is R469P-010, i am assuming that the last number 010, means i have 10 under bearings. anyone know for sure ? bearings don't have a brand name on them.
 
Could you have possibly switched caps or have one reversed ? Yes I have done exactly that with same results your having.
 
If they are .010 under, and the crank is standard, it will definitely lock it up tight.

If you torqued the rod bolts down, real good chance the rods caps are now sprung, and no longer round.

Proceed with caution! If this is what happened be sure to check the clearance with Plastiguage once the correct bearing are in. They "may" come back into spec, but they could also be too loose.

To play it safe, the rods need to go to the machine shop and be reconditioned.
 
the "10" usually means 10 thicker as the crank has metal removed so the bearing must be thicker. Under size would be the crank as it has been ground. There are no undersize bearings but there are oversized to fill up the space when the crank has been ground.
 
May I ask...was the Diameter of the Journals checked?

Were the bearing inserts placed in the Connecting Rods and Inside Dimension Checked?

Were you utilizing Plastique?

Are the bearing inserts properly oriented to the Rod / Cap?

Are the Caps on the correct Rods?

Are the Caps oriented properly to their respective Rod?

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(quoted from post at 09:45:02 05/03/19) the "10" usually means 10 thicker as the crank has metal removed so the bearing must be thicker. Under size would be the crank as it has been ground. There are no undersize bearings but there are oversized to fill up the space when the crank has been ground.

"There are no undersize bearings but there are oversized to fill up the space when the crank has been ground."

Gene Bender, why not take a minute to correct your thinking, that statement is the opposite of what is published by engine and bearing manufacturers, and the terminology accepted by 'most everyone in the engine rebuilding world except for you.

You have been corrected by MANY posters on here over the years, and manufacturer's data has been posted to verify the corrections, yet you continue to post your opposite/contrary view.

This is not a "social issue" or something that can be debated, it's a documented fact.

And, sooner or later, an uniformed "newbie" is going to believe you, and a destroyed engine will be the result.

Here is the official DEERE parts list, do you see any "oversize" bearings there?


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Gene .... why don't you just tell everyone that you are following the G. Bender system of bearing measurement? Forget undersized and oversized and all that nasty stuff. Just because nobody else in the world uses it doesn't make it invalid, it is just unique and opposite to the other 7 billion people on the planet.
 
I did, and it was .005 thicker (using a Fowler Ball micrometer) Every mechanic, every parts house, every service manual I have or have seen, calls them under. It is not the shell, it is the comparison to standard. Jim
 
Did a machine shop grind the crankshaft? If not, it's going to hard to get those bearings to fit. If not ground, most of the crankshaft journal wear is going to be on the top, so the sides are going to be the tightest. You need some plasti-gauge and an abrasive roll of sandpaper.
 

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