Truck - Fuel in oil

nrowles

Member
Made 1st attempt to start truck (1953 IH R-112) that had sat for 35 years, after I thoroughly went through everything, rebuilt head, pulled oil pan, etc. Couldn't get fuel to the carb but eventually we could get it to idle by trickling some fuel down the throat of the carb. After we got it to idle for about 20 seconds and determined that if I get fuel to the carb it will run I checked the oil and it had fuel in it. I know I need to drain the oil ASAP.

2 questions. My plan is to change oil and once the truck idles good I am going to put a can of seafoam in and let it idle for 30 minutes and then do an oil change again.

1. After I drain the oil and put new in is that enough to get all the fuel out or is there some type of additive that should go in it as well?

2. The oil filters for the truck are a sock type filter and cost $20+ a piece. Is it necessary to also change this filter ASAP or can I still use this filter until I do the oil change after idling seafoam through it?
 
(quoted from post at 06:31:39 04/22/19) I would be concerned about a bad fuel pump if fuel in oil.

Yes. I am plating the fuel pump opening and installing a low pressure electric fuel pump.
 
I wouldn't be so worried about a little bit of fuel in the oil. I also wouldn't be dumping any amendments in the oil right away to knock a lot of decades old crud loose.
 
Just change the oil, take the filters out, let them drain, if any oil in the canisters, get it out.

You can reuse the filters.

Any residual gas will evaporate once the engine is up to temp.

Any way to find a new fuel pump or rebuild the original?

I hate electric pumps! Seen too many fail, leak, flood the engine...
 
(quoted from post at 07:08:16 04/22/19)

Any way to find a new fuel pump or rebuild the original?

I hate electric pumps! Seen too many fail, leak, flood the engine...

I did put a new fuel pump on it. We tried both new and old and neither would pump fuel. When we looked at the arm on the new pump, very little of the black coating was wore off and was uneven and we think the cam may be too worn to run the mechanical pump. The guy helping me did mention that he could put a weld on the arm to build it up a little bit if we had to but he said just to get an electric pump.
 
I agree,bad fuel pump. On the oil,Replace fuel pump,then change oil.Remove the oil filter when you add the seafoam to prevent all the loose particles from plugging the filter.Rumming for 30 min or so with no filter wont hurt a thing.Oil deprivation from a plugged filter will ruin an engine fast.After the initial 'cleaning', fill with fresh oil and filter,and drive.However,the engine will most likely be clean from the gas already in the oil. Enjoy.
 
I have never seen a cam lobe that operates the fuel pump worn to the point that it would not operate the fuel pump. That particular lobe is the least stressed on the entire cam. I suspect that you have the wrong pump.

I know of no other place for fuel to get into the oil than the fuel pump. Oil in the fuel is sufficiently eliminated with an oil change. The little bit that might be left is not enough to cause any problems.

I'm with Steve on the electric pump. There are not enough safety devices to keep from having a catastrophic failure.
 
I bought the only aftermarket fuel pump made for this truck.

Can't fuel get into the oil through the intake?

The dislike for the electric pump is a bummer since I thought that was my fix.

We did check to make sure the arm was on the correct side of the cam.
 
I had a Deere 348 gas engine in a combine that wore the fuel pump cam lobe round. It could pump enough wide open but not at idle. Tried two new pumps and neither one helped so I replaced the mechanical pump with an electric and my problems went away.
 
(quoted from post at 09:43:36 04/22/19) I bought the only aftermarket fuel pump made for this truck.

Can't fuel get into the oil through the intake?

The dislike for the electric pump is a bummer since I thought that was my fix.

We did check to make sure the arm was on the correct side of the cam.

Put an electric fuelpump on it, wired through an oil pressure switch with a momentary priming pushbutton, and don't look back.

As to the other guy's comment about electric fuelpumps leaking, I guess I'm fortunate, never had that happen, or heard before that was an issue.
 
Perfect solution. The old ones leak through the diaphram into the engine. Do change the oil. If it is new oil, I would let it sit in an open container to
evaporate the fuel. Jim
 
Buick V8s and couple year of V6 1970s were known to wear down fuel pump lobe- lot of Walbro electric fuel pumps 3 to 5 pounds sold. some other cams made a few years, odd lots with poor surface hardening or some odd metals used. service bulletin for the Buicks when I was working parts counter. Other cam problems for some odd lots. Iski catalog had reference to some of years, odd lots that could use slightly hotter cam and they or another outfit had the price to regrind and build up the troublesome cams that had poor fuel pump lobes and some that were known to have back lobe for rear valves poor finish, wear downs- GMs with rear mount distributors had low oil or something that area, rear cam seal leaks. RN
 

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