Case 1030 Charging........

banjoman09

Well-known Member
On My Case 103 - battery's are not staying charged so I checked them "while running" and I have 12.60 at the batteries. Went up front to check 12v generator - has a top mount regulator with three posts; RH terminal shows 12.60V ; middle terminal shows 14.80 Volts....LH terminal shows around 8.20 V ; without knowing where the three wires go can I just run a new wire from the center post of regulator to the Hot post on the starter? It has no volt or Amp meter- just a light on the dash. Trying to do this as simple as I can without tracing wiring out the wiring...please help and thanks.
 
ARM or GEN terminal on regulator should go to A (armature) post on generator. FLD terminal on regulator should to to F (Field) post on generator. BAT terminal on regulator should go back to BATtery via the dash connecting to switches and starter solenoid.

Logis says RH terminal with 12.6V should be BAT, Middle terminal with 14.8 volts would likely be the ARM/GEN post. 14.8 v indicates generator is charging, 12.60 indicates charge is not getting to battery. Likely problem is the cutout in the regulator is either not closing or not contacting.

You might be able to clean the contacts for a temporary fix. The purpose of the cut out is to connect generator to battery when charge voltage is greater than battery voltage and disconnect generator when output is below battery voltage.

If the regulator proves defective I would seriously consider switching to a Delco 3 wire internal regulated alternator. Alternator will be no more expensive than replacement generator regulator and will be more dependable. Get a 3 wire alternator since you already have charge light. BAT wire on old regulator to output of alternator. #2 pin on alternator to output, and #1 pin on alternator to generator end of light which should be connected to ARM post. Would also be advisable to run #10 wire from alternator output to switch connections and on to starter solenoid.
 
thank you very much.....will go check some more and see if I can get regulator to work; Im kinda "old school" like to keep things original but I do see what you mean. Again thanks!
 
Reads 12.8 at the battery and on RH terminal on regulator- at both -idle and 1500 rpm ; Have cover off regulator and looks new, ofcourse, and points or contact is together when running. Seems generator is working fine just not getting my voltage to battery.
 
Banjoman,

Heres the deal, the open unloaded output of a genny (say the 14.8 you mentioned) not connected to any load such as a battery isn't the whole story WHAT REALY COUNTS is to what voltage it can raise a battery at fast RPM. IE just because a genny on its ARM post to ground is 14.8 volts does NOT mean its real strong. If a good genny and VR are working at fast RPM battery voltage should rise to at least 13 up to 14 or so. If it stays at 12 its NOT being charged due to a bad genny or a bad or non grounded VR. If the gennys output isn't sufficient or if the VR is bad the internal cutout relay never closes so the BAT terminal is battery voltage and the GEN/ARM terminal is the open unloaded output of the genny.

Wiring on VR is BAT to ammeter then battery or direct to battery itself so it can charge it
GEN/ARM on VR to ARM post on Genny
FLD on VR to gennys FLD post
VR needs a good ground

Often on some VR's the left is BAT middle is GEN/ARM and right is FLD. If the VR's internal cutout relay is open the BAT terminal reads battery voltage which is 12.6 for a full charged battery. If the cutout relay is closed and its good BAT and GEN/ARM are near the same voltage.

What you need to do is work through my Troubleshooting procedure below to see if non charging is fault of the Voltage Regulator orrrrrrrrrr the generator. Basically when running at fast RPM take a jumper and ground out the gennys FLD post. If it charges good then but NOT otherwise the genny itself is okay so either the VR is bad or its not well grounded THE GENNY NEEDS POLARIZED CORRECT AND THE VR NEEDS A GOOD GROUND TO WORK

If you work through this it can tell you if non charging is fault of Genny or VR



Heres my Non Charging Troubleshooting Procedure for Class A Charging Systems. In Para 5 it tells how to effectively by pass the Voltage Regulator functions to see if failure to charge is the fault of the genny versus the Voltage Regulator. It also has a Motor Test to test the genny. If you havent polarized, you may wanna do that just to make sure!!!!!! Temporarily ground the Gens Field post to case then momentarily flash jump a wire from the VR"s BAT terminal over to its ARM (or GEN) terminal (or direct to ARM post on Gen) and you ought to get a spark. Always try the simple fixes first!!!!

1) For a good working Gen to get to and charge the battery, it has to have a path usually from the Gens ARM post output,,,,,,,,,,,To and through the cutout relay portion of the VR (between its ARM and BAT terminals),,,,,,,,,Up to the Load (NOT to battery) side of the Ammeter (if it has one),,,,,,,,,To and through the ammeter (if it has one),,,,,,,,,,From BAT side of ammeter to ungrounded battery post, often via the starter lug post. Is yours wired that way or equivalent ??? The ammeter (if it has one) should read hot battery voltage on BOTH terminals, does yours??? Even if an ammeter were stuck (but still continuous) as RPM increases the battery voltage should rise from 12.6 to near 14 volts (half that for 6 volt) and/or the lights glow brighter. Have you tried that in case the ammeter isnt working right???????

2) If the above is so, the BAT terminal on the VR MUST ALWAYS READ HOT BATTERY VOLTAGE. Does yours??? If not, the Gen cant get to and charge the battery.

3) The Gen to VR wiring is as follows:

BAT on VR to ammeters load (NOT battery) side

ARM (or GEN) on VR to Gens Armature post.

FLD on VR to Gens Field post.

(L) Load (if you have a 4 wire VR) up to BAT supply input terminal on switch to feed loads like lights and ingition.

4. THE GEN AND VR MUST BE WELL GROUNDED AND THE BELT GOOD N TIGHT. If any doubt, run a ground wire from the grounded battery post or clean solid frame member direct to the Gen and VR and see what happens?????????????????????????

NOW, if the Gen and VR are grounded,,,,,all is wired correct,,,,,,,,BAT terminal on VR is HOT,,,,,,,,Belt is tight,,,,,,,,,ammeter is good n continuous n works but she wont charge, have you had the batteries tested lately????? Is there electrolyte above all the plates and no cells have a gray or milky appearance?????? A bad battery may not accept a charge you know!!!!!!!! If she dont, proceed below to see if its a Gen or VR problem (AFTER you have insured the wiring per the above)

TO DETERMINE IF ITS A GEN OR VR PROBLEM

5. With the tractor running, temporarily ground the Gens Field post to case. If she charges then, the VR may be bad, or a wires missing from VR"s Field post to the Field terminal on the VR, or the VR isnt well grounded.

6. If she still dont charge, leave Field grounded and jump a wire across from the VR"s BAT and ARM terminals (jump by passes the cutout relay) and see if she charges. If then but not otherwise, the VR"s cutout relay isnt working correct (maybe points burned/carboned/resistive)

7. With the 2 steps above, you have basically by passed the VR functions, so if she still dont charge, you"re left with a bad battery or wiring or the Gen itself.

8. MOTOR TEST. You can Motor test the Gen. If its grounded and you remove the belt and apply hot battery voltage direct to its ARM Post, it should motor n run well (Armature n Brushes and Commutator okay). Then if you ground the Field and it slows down some, the Fileds probably good. If it passes both those tests, it should charge, and if not, it may be a wirign or battery or grounding problem.

9. Typical Gen problems may be the brushes are worn down or the hold down spring assemblies are stuck/corroded/dirty and arent pushing the brushes tight down against the commutator. Check those things out. Worse may be bad fields or armature etc. Air and WD 40 etc can clean and free them, the hold downs must be free n snap and hold the brushes DOWN TIGHT.

SUMMARY: Check the wiring,,,,,The Genny and VR grounds,,,,,,Insure BAT on VR is hot,,,,,,,check battery (maybe load tested and Specific Gravity checked),,,,,,,,,good tight belt,,,,,,,insure ammeter is continuous (BOTH sides HOT),,,,,,see if battery voltage rises above 12.6 (6.3 for 6 volt) and/or light glow brighter,,,,,,,,,do the Field and cutout relay VR by pass checks,,,,,,,,insure the Gens brushes arent worn down and the hold down springs are free n clean and push the brushes down tight,,,,,,,,,,,check the connections,,,,,,,,,try the Gen Motor Test to see if its good.

You may just have a bad battery or bad ground or connection if you say the Gen and VR are okay.

Good Luck n God Bless, let us all know.

John T
John Ts Charging Troubleshooting
 
WIll take a better man than me to decifer all you just wrote to me! BUT, batteries are new- had them checked also. I have 12.6v to VR - on the right side. I have 14.6 in the middle when runnning at 1200 rpm; so I jumpered the middle to the right post when running and batteries went up to 13.6 ; ???
 
Good evening banjoman, you posted

"WIll take a better man than me to decifer all you just wrote to me!"

Hey you're doing fine, you cant expect to understand everything in short order, glad I was able to help

"so I jumpered the middle to the right post when running and batteries went up to 13.6 ; ??? "

If the battery voltage rose to 13.6 THAT TELLS ME YOUR GENERATOR ITSELF IS OKAY, now were getting somewhere

The VR posts are BAT (gets to Battery) ,,,,,,,,,,GEN/ARM which is the gennys output,,,,,,,,,,,,FLD wires to FLD on Genny

Not being there armed with a meter it sounds to me like YOUR VR'S CUTOUT RELAY (located between GEN/ARM and BAT) ISNT CLOSING Make sure its well grounded, maybe run a jumper wire from it to the grounded battery post or a good frame ground n see what happens

Let me know what you find

John T
 
John- I took the cover off the VR and watched it while running; when I increase the rpm to 1200 the points close- sit should charge...but it doesnt increase the battery voltage. Must be something not making contact in the VR and so not coming out the battery post... seems odd but thats whats it appears to be; I guess Ill just order a new VR and see what happens. Thanks for your help.
 
(quoted from post at 23:36:32 04/02/19) John- I took the cover off the VR and watched it while running; when I increase the rpm to 1200 the points close- sit should charge...but it doesnt increase the battery voltage. Must be something not making contact in the VR and so not coming out the battery post... seems odd but thats whats it appears to be; I guess Ill just order a new VR and see what happens. Thanks for your help.

Try cleaning the points in the VR and clean all the electrical connections. Corrosion = resistance. Clean the terminals and then try it before you spend $75.00 a VR that might not fix the problem.
 

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