Which Clutch and Pressure Plate

pburchett

Member
I got the tractor split and the clutch and pressure plate out, and the bell housing cleaned up. I will replace the transmission input shaft seal and the gasket below that unless someone recommends leaving it alone. I figured it was about time to leak and this would save come work later on.

mvphoto32707.jpg


mvphoto32708.jpg



I think the oil is coming from the rear main and a little has leaked down from the valve cover gasket which recently decided to let go.

The 9 inch clutch disk is 1.3mm thick to the rivets. The manual says to replace at 0.3mm so that only leaves 1mm of thickness so that definitely needs replaced. I see YT has 2 different types of clutches. Which type is best? The smooth organic or the one with the lines in the friction material?

mvphoto32713.jpg


mvphoto32710.jpg


The pressure plate currently in the tractor may not be original as I could not find the ford logo on it but it is an AETNA brand that matches the clutch and bearings which was probably replaced as a set earlier on. This pressure plate has the adjustable fingers and is weighted. Most aftermarket I have seen do not have the adjustable fingers and some do not have the weights. Which is best or will it matter?

mvphoto32711.jpg


mvphoto32712.jpg
 
As for the gasket on the lower plate, as long as it's not leaking, I would leave it.

But do replace the seal while you are there.

Unless those are generic photos of the clutch discs, it appears they have different splines. Read the application carefully before ordering. You'll probably not have a choice on the material unless you find that as an option. I prefer the type with the grooves cut in the face. Those serve as a vacuum break to keep the disc from sticking to the flywheel or pp when released.

Speaking of sticking...

From what I hear, the new earth friendly disc linings are more prone to rust stick when stored than the older linings. Might want to devise some way to block the clutch pedal down when it will be stored for more than a few days.

Since the clutch did not get driven to failure, and IF it was working well before, you might get by without replacing the pressure plate. If it looks good, no hot spots, even wear, the release fingers look and feel good, that might be an option, up to you.

It's really hard to judge what style is best. Remember you are getting import aftermarket parts, because that's all that's available now. The designs change per the manufacturer.

I would go ahead and replace the release and pilot bearing while you're there. Compare them closely to the originals.

How does the flywheel surface look? If it has surface cracks, hot spots, or worn, be a good time to have it surfaced. Also look at the starter ring gear. It may be wearing where the drive gear engages.
 
Yes I think the photos are generic. I chose them to illustrate the different types of clutch material available.

The flywheel looks good except for the ring gear which I plan on replacing.

I think I will replace the pressure plate as this one tends to jump/jerk when the clutch is feathered a lot. Of course this could be the oil leak doing this. I will check the run out on the fly wheel when I put it back on .
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top